sainthoo Posted May 2, 2022 Author Share Posted May 2, 2022 Current problems: 1) Still have not figured out exhaust headers… the thing that has me most worried. 2) I have a giant lug socket (41mm as instructed) which clearly does not fit my lug nuts. going to plumb the engine, work on other things. Order a lug socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 It looks like #4 pipe is too far clockwise on the head making it too high at the slip joint. After lining up the pipes on the head by lining up the outside edge of the flange sections and snugging down the bolts, I would use a three foot or so piece of one inch black pipe (the size is based on the inside dimension) and wrap the end with a shop rag, insert the pipe as far as it will go then use it as a lever to tweak the slip joint location as needed to get it aligned, then loosen the head flange bolts before installing the secondary pipe/muffler, then retighten the flange to the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 2, 2022 Author Share Posted May 2, 2022 4 minutes ago, MV8 said: It looks like #4 pipe is too far clockwise on the head making it too high at the slip joint. After lining up the pipes on the head by lining up the outside edge of the flange sections and snugging down the bolts, I would use a three foot or so piece of one inch black pipe (the size is based on the inside dimension) and wrap the end with a shop rag, insert the pipe as far as it will go then use it as a lever to tweak the slip joint location as needed to get it aligned, then loosen the head flange bolts before installing the secondary pipe/muffler, then retighten the flange to the head. Thanks for the input. I am considering 1) heating with a torch, bending or 2) taking to a shop to have the headers properly angled (cut off, rewelded) or 3) asking for a new set and trying to fit them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 Another day off, so I fit steering column, oil sump tank, plumbed engine (oil and water), fit airbox, fit air intake. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 Does the air intake have some sort of rubber gasket to meet the bonnet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11Budlite Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 9 hours ago, sainthoo said: Does the air intake have some sort of rubber gasket to meet the bonnet? Yes, there should be a gasket. Mine was very similar to door weatherstrip IIRC. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 Got the airbox trim done, throttle cable, rear fenders and rear lights today. I am confused as to why people resorted to bending the throttle pedal- plenty of room to adjust cable and set throttle stop in footwell. Plenty of progress this week 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 (edited) New questions: 1) what is this brake line? 2) what is this super short ground cable (have battery to engine and chassis installed)? 3) Can’t find fuse box cover? 4) don’t know if I need “top hat” (black piece) for speed sensor as indicated in a blog? Edited May 4, 2022 by sainthoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 Well, both brake line and short ground wire are extras I don’t need. Will have to order the “top hat”- I lost it or it never came with my kit. Also need them to send me a fuse box cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeySpoony Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 I didn't have to bend my brake pedal. I don't think that's a thing on LHD cars. Or at least it's not anymore. LHD and RHD pedal boxes are completely different. I did, however have to modify the grommet that overlies the throttle pedal/cable access. The grommet was interfering with throttle closing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 Shouldn't the throttle cable route straight under that "Z" shape plate, Vs at an angle? Also you might want to safety wire the end of the throttle cable to prevent the ball end from slipping out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 28 minutes ago, Dave W said: Shouldn't the throttle cable route straight under that "Z" shape plate, Vs at an angle? Also you might want to safety wire the end of the throttle cable to prevent the ball end from slipping out. I couldn’t understand what you were saying at first, then I looked at the picture - optical illusion. The throttle cable is straight. Good suggestion- I have lots of hose / cable zip tying to do, leaving that for the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 2 hours ago, Dave W said: Shouldn't the throttle cable route straight under that "Z" shape plate, Vs at an angle? Also you might want to safety wire the end of the throttle cable to prevent the ball end from slipping out. I noticed the same thing. The cable housing does align with the cable. You can see the edge of the grommet sticking up on the outboard side. A Z pedal or bend of the upper leg outboard would be an improvement but it seems to work ok for a while as-is. Engineering the pedal for a swivel end or cam/quadrant to eliminate flex close to the rigid termination and a Z offset would greatly increase the cable life, at least on this end. I expect most cable failures are probably from a pedal stop out of adjustment. They add a little glob of silicone/rtv to keep the cable end secure in the slot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 6, 2022 Author Share Posted May 6, 2022 Another day off- so progress. Installed: 1) rear wing protection (left off trim as I plan to have PPF installed) 2) driver’s side knee panel- left off passenger side, as I do not have the fuse box cover. 3) carbon trim at driver’s door- left off passenger as I don’t want to install knee panel without fuse box cover in place. 4) tunnel carpet 5) harnesses 6) fuel filler cover, washer bottle and boot carpet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 6, 2022 Author Share Posted May 6, 2022 Rear wings before and after: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 6, 2022 Author Share Posted May 6, 2022 Tunnel carpet prep: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 6, 2022 Author Share Posted May 6, 2022 Riveting knee panel, tunnel, carbon fiber trim: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 6, 2022 Author Share Posted May 6, 2022 Boot fuel filler cover, washer bottle, carpet: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 6, 2022 Author Share Posted May 6, 2022 Harnesses 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 6, 2022 Author Share Posted May 6, 2022 (edited) Comic attempt by factory to drill holes. This aluminum piece (which had to be removed) is the stiffener at the front of the boot lid cover. Yes, this is the factory attempt to drill holes- all 4, just terrible, and it still doesn’t allow attaching a harness as the holes are ALL still blocked. Makes me wonder what other care is taken elsewhere? Edited May 6, 2022 by sainthoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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