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Handbrake Lever for Lotus 7’s


ianashdown

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I have been looking for a handbrake lever for my ‘61 Lotus 7 restoration without any positive leads.  Like many others, I’ve tried to find a likely source from the ‘60’s UK Car industry parts bin; also without any success.  I’m also aware that I’m not the only person looking.

 

So, what to do?  I, we, have to have a functioning handbrake to get these cars tested, titled etc., so a solution must be found.  There are a few non-original solution, but for me that is not an option.  A reproduction will have to be made.  Looking at pictures of the assembly it doesn’t look too difficult. 
 

With the idea of reverse engineering the lever assembly, I need to find an original example that I can measure, scan etc and then re-engineer in CAD so that parts can be made.  Does anyone have a Lever Assembly that I could borrow for a few weeks to do the reverse engineering?  I don’t believe the demand is large, 10-12 perhaps, maybe another 5-10 for future restorers needs, so the cost is likely to be high, but I don’t believe there is another option.  I, for one, am reluctantly prepared to pay the likely price.  Do others feel this way?

 

Thank you,

 

Ian

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To work with your existing mount, if it is a spitfire handbrake, it would need to be the very early push button to lock type, similar to the mg one you already have.

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I don't want to take mine out of the car to loan you, but can send photos if that will help.  I seem to recall that it is Triumph Herald or Spitfire, as mentioned above.  You might try Chris at Sevens and Elans.  He is an incredible resource.

 

http://www.sevenselans.com/about.htm

 

tom

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This is what came out of my Wesfield

mounts on left side of tunnel

I removed it to get more room

Somebody should recognize it   handle is close to a Spridget, don't know about mount

 

DSCN0401[1].JPG

DSCN0402[1].JPG

Edited by 7Westfield
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16 minutes ago, toldfield said:

I don't want to take mine out of the car to loan you, but can send photos if that will help.  I seem to recall that it is Triumph Herald or Spitfire, as mentioned above.  You might try Chris at Sevens and Elans.  He is an incredible resource.

 

http://www.sevenselans.com/about.htm

 

tom

Hi,

 

I appreciate the offer, but I have lots of photos.  I believe that to be effective the mechanical dimensions/geometry need to be correct, so my goal would be to carefully measure the original part in order to replicate it as closely as possible.

 

I’ve looked at all the Triumph levers going back to the Standard 10 which is the source for the axle, and none look similar.  The Lotus ‘motion’ is also reversed, pushing on the cable outer rather than pulling on the inner.

 

Ian

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18 minutes ago, 7Westfield said:

This is what came out of my Wesfield

mounts on left side of tunnel

I removed it to get more room

Somebody should recognize it

 

DSCN0401[1].JPG

DSCN0402[1].JPG

I think this might be MG Midget.

 

My plan is to keep my car as close to original as possible so I’ll be keeping the original position even though I think the conventional tunnel mount is probably more effective.

 

Ian

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34 minutes ago, MV8 said:

The closest oem handbrake I've seen is the early midget/sprite unit.

I think you’re probably correct!  I don’t think it was the original source however, at this point I believe it probably was a Lotus original part.  Maybe the ratchet was from another car, but I don’t think it was a direct fit.

 

Ian

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How about this until I can find/make the correct parts?

 

It could be hidden under the scuttle, in front of the dash with the button out of sight.  
 

Might be a reasonable, but not inexpensive, compromise at $600, but I think it would get me through an inspection.

 

Ian

 

 

IMG_1682.webp

 

 

Edited by ianashdown
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If it is going to be temporary, you could go a LOT cheaper with something similar to a MICO (ZF) brake lock.  There are some with a tiny lever instead of a button.  That would look hysterical in a Seven.  Keep in mind it only locks in the pressure you have already applied to the hydraulic system.

 

Some centuries ago, I was a UPS delivery boy and had a wonderful package car with a MICO brake.  As I came to a stop, I could apply the MICO and be standing in the door when the van actually stopped.  Back when UPS drivers were reputed to run.

 

 

RYANSTAR Hydraulic Handbrake Adjustable Ebrake Long Lever Handle Fit for Drift Track Rally Racing Master Cylinder 0.75, E ...

 

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Temporary is a relative term!  When I might come across an original part is impossible to predict.

 

I like the E-Stopp or similar systems because they utilize the existing cables etc.  I believe I can hide it away so it’s not challenging the appearance of originality, and other than 4 holes I think it can be removed with no permanent alterations.

 

The company is local to me so perhaps I can get a look at one before making a purchase.

 

Ian

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With a hydraulic system, it depends on how they inspect. Regs call for a mechanical brake that doesn't fail if there is a leak. If it doesn't matter, a small push button valve could be fitted inline to be used after applying the foot pedal to provide the pressure. I think the electrical system would meet the requirement since it mechanically locks the solenoid when power is removed.

 

An intermediate bracket could be used to prevent chassis modification to mount a typical handbrake such as one from an early mini or a spitfire that pulls the cable toward the handle. This could be mounted with the handle away from the driver (more ergo that way imho) or the same way round as the original and a 2.5-3 inch pulley added to reverse the new, longer cables direction.

Edited by MV8
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I put an electric unit on the westy    easy enough to do, but the one I got off fleabay for $30 is very slow--nice parking brake, but def not for emergency use

 

look online for "12v linear actuator"

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I have a 1500 spitfire and the handle looks identical to the tr250 unit in the last link. What do you want to know? It's push-button to release, the loop around the top is a travel stop for the quadrant that is free to rotate unless hooked by the bottom slot, and there is a switch for an idiot light. Distance to the lever that engages the clevis is about two inches, and the overall length is about 11 inches.

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