1986 Caterham BDR, a new old car

[IamScotticus]

Here we go...

the old push-lock (PL) debate

Im on the fence with this one.

I need to decide for my build.

PLs make for very clean plumbing.

PLs should be fine for street.

I don't believe PLs would be allowed on a racetrack.  Am I wrong?

My take on 7s is they should always be prepared to race.

Edited November 8, 2023 by IamScotticus

[fastg]

I do have a few push lock fitting on my car, there are quick and less bulky than AN fitting, but I always add an Oetiker clamp for extra security. I almost never use hose clamps, I think the only one I have are the thumb screw type on the air filter pipe. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=oetiker+clamps&hvadid=616863384942&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9007733&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11396396744207248546&hvtargid=kwd-2251557402&hydadcr=24661_13611822&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_hqa0982s3_e

 

for any hoses that need to be removable, radiator hose for example, I use spring clamps. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/6mm-20mm-Pipe-Automotive-Line-Silicone-Fasteners-Assortment/dp/B09WTSRTCB/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=1ES0Y5GH31W2M&keywords=hose+spring+clamps&qid=1699454525&sprefix=hose+spring+clamps%2Caps%2C63&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

 

Graham  

Edited November 8, 2023 by fastg
added second link

[MV8]

35 minutes ago, IamScotticus said:

Here we go...

the old push-lock (PL) debate

Im on the fence with this one.

I need to decide for my build.

PLs make for very clean plumbing.

PLs should be fine for street.

I don't believe PLs would be allowed on a racetrack.  Am I wrong?

My take on 7s is they should always be prepared to race.

A debate? I had no idea...

I suppose if they were leaking they would not be allowed, but I've never had any leak.

Not sure what rule would be broken on a track.

[fastg]

I can find nothing related to race car rules restricting there use. Pegasus Racing installation instructions recommend a Oetiker clamp of pressure applications.

 

Installation Tips:

• Use Oetiker Clamps to secure the hose in place for pressurized applications.
• For maximum security, use 2 Oetiker clamps on each hose end. Rotate one clamp so the ears are clocked 90 degrees to the ears on the second clamp.

[CarlB]

A lot of race cars use push lock fittings. I agree Oetiker should be added.

[MV8]

Probably 3/4 thread on the cooler for AN8 full flow elbow fittings and 1/2 inch hose but check.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/390612527352?hash=item5af25228f8:g:bMEAAOSwC7FiXrhw&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwJ%2F2ZfTaOFnZEHLwSg%2BNa%2F%2BodfRpfJchWlpHsX4tg%2FJBQ1B1rmiI8fcG3UKUHJ1uv%2F7rfxjbJG9mAqOGpIxSNJryIT7f50RJfhn8pctTvnR%2F9J7ZG%2BunLR1f9zbblFoU77nTGtaYkdHHwvWyrhQ5E%2Bu8Z%2BXHxChX4t3ih2bOc16zzFSco0KiOIbJRhdyz0fMBW7xOf6FiegcGRhY6vqtucIMNHONkrw0DMaCNQXVjhaZAXlzjkoMFwuBSnCCALmoIQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9TQ_f31Yg

[Wayne Stambaugh]

Here are pictures of the oil drain hose and the crankcase vent hose. As you can see the oil drain return hose is fairly large maybe 1 1/4” in diameter. Since the car only had 31 miles on it I have to believe both these hoses are original. They are both hard as glass. I added these pictures for those who may not be familiar with the BDA engine’s features.

 

I worked on the gearbox this evening briefly. I gently pried the gears back and forth while putting a little pressure on the shifter after spraying the rods with WD40 and all of a sudden it shifted. I put the top cover back on and it shifts just fine in all the gears including reverse! I kept shifting it for several minutes and never had a problem. Looks like I’m over that hurdle now. Now it’s time to change the timing belt and get the engine sealed.

[MV8]

That's great news on the trans. No pics but I am assuming that is the outside diameter that is 1-1/4 and may just be a very thick wall. If you wish to reuse the fittings and replace just the hose, the crimped shell can be cut straight across with a die grinder (just deep enough to see the rubber) to use a screw driver to split it off, releasing the hose and making the fittings reusable and indexable (with the clamps loose). It can be difficult to remove the crimp collar so remove the hose from the car and cooler and put the fitting nut in a vice to hold it (not too tight). Once removed, you can measure the fittings for the right size hose. The hose can then be replaced and a radiator hose clamp or a crimp collar/oeticker  can be used. Sae30R7 fuel/evap/oil hose comes up to 3/4 ID (heavy truck supplier).

[Wayne Stambaugh]

11 minutes ago, MV8 said:

That's great news on the trans. No pics but I am assuming that is the outside diameter that is 1-1/4 and may just be a very thick wall. If you wish to reuse the fittings and replace just the hose, the crimped shell can be cut straight across with a die grinder (just deep enough to see the rubber) to use a screw driver to split it off, releasing the hose and making the fittings reusable and indexable (with the clamps loose). It can be difficult to remove the crimp collar so remove the hose from the car and cooler and put the fitting nut in a vice to hold it (not too tight). Once removed, you can measure the fittings for the right size hose. The hose can then be replaced and a radiator hose clamp or a crimp collar/oeticker  can be used. Sae30R7 fuel/evap/oil hose comes up to 3/4 ID (heavy truck supplier).

Sorry the pictures didn’t show up, I’ll try again.

[Wayne Stambaugh]

This evening I plan to check the cylinders with my bore scope and see how the cylinder walls and valves look. Again with only 31 miles on the engine I’m not going to be looking for wear but more for rust and corrosion.  

[MV8]

Replace the reinforced pvc drain hose (available at Home Depot for sinks) with R7 fuel/oil hose. Need to measure the barb or hose id. Though it would see only crankcase pressure, it would be nice to have a pressure rated (reinforced) hose but those have a thicker wall, so if 1-1/4 od, then it will likely be less than 1 inch id. If it is 3/4 od, you can use R7.

[inchoate]

Your hoses look exactly like mine.  I've never had any leakage or issues of any kind with them.  I guess you could replace them if you're taking the heads off but I've never seen the need.

[Wayne Stambaugh]

Today, I’m doing a variety of different things. The car is up on stands wheels off. I’m looking at fuel line routing and determined that nylon or plastic of some kind is used to go from the tank to the engine bay. As MV8 stated steel line of NiCop is probably the best thing to use. Looks like I’ll have to remove a few panels inside the car over the tunnel to acomplish replacing the line.

 

I removed the wings front and rear to prepare the body for paint. I have talked about replacing all things rubber and while I was taking wht wheels off I got to thinking about tires. I have attached two pictures of tires the Goodyear Eagles are what went on the car in 1986. Needless to say regardless as to whether they were exposed to UV or not, I’m not going to run them. The second picture is the new tires that came with the car. They are two years old which is probably fine. I have been told to save those tires for purposes other than daily street driving. My question is, what is a good tire for everyday use on this car? As you can see in the pictures I have 14” wheels and at this point in time I want to stick with 14s.  I will not be trying to shave a couple of 1/10s of a second off my lap times or anything of the sort. All I want is a decent tire to drive the streets with. Any recommendations?

 

I hope to get to the engine today and get some pictures of the insides of the cylinders, so back to work.

 

a

[IamScotticus]

I would use what you have.

Probably better to be on rims moving around or sold off than sitting.

Edited November 10, 2023 by IamScotticus

[MV8]

I like these, but I carry out since I have the equipment: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Waterfall-Eco-Dynamic-185-60R14-All-Season-Tire/454885257?from=/search

 

I second running the dunlops. Tires have a shelf life. Check the date codes on the side walls. If over 4 years old (no matter when they were sold), you might want to pass and buy new.

[panamericano]

I had both those Dunpops and Falken Azenis (sp?) 650K (?) on a Miata for autocross and street.  Felt and scored the same.  Falkens cheaper.

[Wayne Stambaugh]

1 hour ago, MV8 said:

I like these, but I carry out since I have the equipment: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Waterfall-Eco-Dynamic-185-60R14-All-Season-Tire/454885257?from=/search

 

I second running the dunlops. Tires have a shelf life. Check the date codes on the side walls. If over 4 years old (no matter when they were sold), you might want to pass and buy new.

They are almost 2 years old.

[Wayne Stambaugh]

While removing the front wings today I discovered the only bolts that held it on were the bolts along the inner flange of the wing. There is an arched brace where the headlight mounts that follows the contour of the wing and it had the wires to the wing light (hot and ground) zip tied to it. There were no screws or bolts through the wing into that brace. the wing was just resting on the brace. I also noticed two holes in the side of the body on both sides about half way up the wing. I believe there is supposed to be another support bolted there but there isn’t anything there. In the attached picture you can see the holes if you look closely.

[IamScotticus]

This is the standard flared wing bolt through the wing support.

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/bolts/491-roof-bolt-m6-x-25.html?search_query=wing+bolt&results=303

Edited November 11, 2023 by IamScotticus

[MV8]

Yes, missing wing supports and should be attached. You can see the support and mounting hardware on this '66 (grommet,washer, pan head screws). Wings were reinforced from '88-on so no need for the rear braces (from '88 assembly guide excerpt).