pethier Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 I have an oil-pump-gasket failure on on my 1700 Super Sprint. The new gasket from Pegasus Racing is due here Tuesday. I am assuming the process is: Drain oil. Remove oil filter Remove oil-cooler sandwich by removing large central nut I don't know what to expect here, since i have never installed or removed an oil-cooling setup. Remove pump mounting bolts Pull pump straight out of block I hope the pump will clear the RHD steering column. Clean both block and pump mating surfaces Coat both sides of new gasket with Hylomar and stick it in-place Reinstall oil pump Reinstall bolts What torque? Should I use blue thread-lock goo? Reinstall sandwich plate What torque on the big nut? Reinstall oil filter Put fresh oil in engine Squirt a little oil in each cylinder With spark plugs out and ignition off, run engine on starter motor in short bursts to spread oil throughout the system Check for leaks Replace spark plugs Start engine. Please fill in all the little details for someone who has not done this before. I don't know what I don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 Priming the pump can sometimes be an issue. Redline Assembly Lube or a similar product that disperses in oil can be used in the pump before assembly to ensure innards are protected and improve suction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 I use vaseline to prime oil pumps when they are not in the pan. Packed in the pump between the gears. No need for blue loctite. Just a finger wipe of sealer spread out thin with no excess. Clean surfaces with acetone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 If you are fixing a leak then there is no need to drain the oil unless it needs changing. Remove the pump cover and pack with vasoline. It is not a fresh rebuild and the bearings have oil already so just start it after you're finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pethier Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 19 hours ago, MV8 said: I use vaseline to prime oil pumps when they are not in the pan. Packed in the pump between the gears. No need for blue loctite. Just a finger wipe of sealer spread out thin with no excess. Clean surfaces with acetone. To be clear, by "sealer", do you mean Hylomar on the gasket? Nothing needed on the bolt threads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 Hylomar Blue, Wellseal, Loctite Aviation Gasket Sealer - any or similar should do the job just fine if surfaces are good. I think I used Wellseal as I had it on hand. I think the keys is to not use a silicone based sealant like rtv that can get into the oil and bead up and clog passages - though even that is probably fine if just a smear that won't squeeze out. Threadlock is fine if you choose - but I tend to use anti-seize (copper or nickel depending on metals) for such bolts. Proper torque should hold them in place. I can't remember torque for these - will see if I can find if I had a resource specific to our engines and pumps, but there are generic torque charts for bolt sizes across the web. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 The Lotus Elan Shop Manual says 12-15 ft lbs of torque. A kent ford manual I have reminded me there are lock washers for these bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 2 hours ago, pethier said: To be clear, by "sealer", do you mean Hylomar on the gasket? Nothing needed on the bolt threads? yes or other sealer like Senc said and anti-sieze on the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pethier Posted August 5 Author Share Posted August 5 Pegasus Racing and UPS have really come through. I was told the gasket was to be at the UPS Center in Eagan on Tuesday by 7 PM. I got a call this morning (Monday) that it was in. I have the gasket home and have had lunch. To the shop! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pethier Posted August 6 Author Share Posted August 6 (edited) On 8/4/2024 at 7:29 AM, SENC said: The Lotus Elan Shop Manual says 12-15 ft lbs of torque. A kent ford manual I have reminded me there are lock washers for these bolts. Yes, there were three bolts holding on the oil pump. Two had very-tired lockwashers. The third had a useless-looking internal-star washer. I have fresh lockwashers on-hand. Edited August 6 by pethier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inchoate Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 My oil pump didn't clear the engine mounts. The BDs are built on Kent blocks, so you may encounter some issues... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pethier Posted August 6 Author Share Posted August 6 (edited) 10 hours ago, inchoate said: My oil pump didn't clear the engine mounts. The BDs are built on Kent blocks, so you may encounter some issues... I had no difficulty getting the oil pump past the engine mount. I had thought that maybe I would have to move the steering column (RHD car) out of the way, but that just cleared. I had originally thought I could get the oil-cooler sandwich-plate to come out the top without taking the hoses off of it. It would not make the corners around the steering column. Since the plate was already loose, it was not practical to break the hose connections at the plate. I solved this by removing the hoses at the cooler end. With all the oil drained from the cooler and hoses, I re-attached the cooler to its mounts so I could get enough torque on the hose connections to disconnect the hoses at that end. Threaded each hose back through the bottom of the car and plate came easily out the bottom. Edited August 6 by pethier it was the steering column that was in the way, not the engine mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 Oil pump bolts torque 12-25 lb/ft. Checked two sources. Jake Lamont likes Loctite 515 Gasket Eliminator under the pump cover, 7 lb/ft. It may not be something you are wanting to deal with, but pump rotor end clearance is an issue with these pumps. The rotor floats in the housing abd is in contact with the inside surface of the end plate. This is the only seal you have between having pressure or not, and it wears. Checking the clearance is standard procedure for these engines. I will PM you the details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdb Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 Not to derail the topic, but does anyone know for certain if this is the motor mount bracket that will allow a dry sump oil pump with integrated filter to be used in a Caterham with a Ford Kent engine? https://caterhamparts.co.uk/engine-mounts/106-engine-mounting-bracket-ford-crossflow-dry-sump.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 (edited) Buy the mount anyway. It's an improvement. I'm surprised to see it still available. Email Burton on the clearance. They sell the pumps and should know Edited August 6 by IamScotticus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 (edited) I have this mount. If somone will lend me the pump, I will stage these on my car and report. Or, I can install the mount with the standard pump and report. I can do this now while the Cat is laid up. Maybe Dez knows @NSXguy Edited August 6 by IamScotticus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pethier Posted August 6 Author Share Posted August 6 I assume that is Houston Texas, not Houston Minnesota. Do you ever see/hear Hamilton Loomis playing around town? I met him in Saint Paul at a crossharp seminar he ran. He's a great musician with an interesting backstory. He's from Galveston, but I think he lives in Katy now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 (edited) No, but I'll look him up. Everybody I've met from Galveston has an interesting story. Yes, Houston unfortunately. It's not very 7able here. Edited August 6 by IamScotticus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdb Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 4 hours ago, IamScotticus said: Buy the mount anyway. It's an improvement. I'm surprised to see it still available. Email Burton on the clearance. They sell the pumps and should know 3 hours ago, IamScotticus said: I have this mount. If somone will lend me the pump, I will stage these on my car and report. Or, I can install the mount with the standard pump and report. I can do this now while the Cat is laid up. Maybe Dez knows @NSXguy I started a separate thread on the topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pethier Posted August 6 Author Share Posted August 6 The job looks essentially done. The car up fired on the first try. Lots of oil pressure indicated No leaks noted so far. The car is still on ramps. I need to move some stuff around and get the car back on the floor before a test drive. Checked the compression while I was there. Looks OK, but my compression checker is past its prime years (well, decades), so I will revisit that later. I posted about spark plugs. I'll go check again to see if anyone answered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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