hahuang65 Posted March 28 Posted March 28 On 3/25/2025 at 5:26 PM, Nocturnal005 said: If interested I could make a few for the community, or share the CAD. I've been considering the antigravity vs the AGM... how could i get one of these? I'd be happy to pay. Unfortunately I no longer live in San Jose, so I couldn't just meet you... UNLESS I can have a co-worker (in San Mateo) pick it up before the end of April, as I'm meeting him for work late April in SoCal.
KnifeySpoony Posted March 28 Posted March 28 Not to dissuade either of you from that slick looking solution, but just fyi this is what I did for my car - I can provide links to parts if you are interested.
hahuang65 Posted March 28 Posted March 28 11 minutes ago, KnifeySpoony said: Not to dissuade either of you from that slick looking solution, but just fyi this is what I did for my car - I can provide links to parts if you are interested. Would love to see the list of parts! Thank you!
KnifeySpoony Posted March 28 Posted March 28 (edited) This is the tray. I used double stick tape to keep it from shifting on the old battery tray/platform. I also put some adhesive backed foam to line tray so the battery fits in snugly. I cut off the two tabs that were in the way. I also cut off the vertical tabs off the old platform, obviously. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09L2WFQVZ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1 And this is the top bracket. The J hooks are extra long, I just cut off the excess. The hooks work perfectly in the side holes on the factory tray. I also chose this bracket as it does not interfere/cover the restart button on the battery (though I have yet to need it) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TZ365CD?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1 This setup has been rock solid for me. I initially wanted to have the battery laying down (for aesthetics only, as it's so light the weight up high really isn't an issue), but this was simpler and has worked out fine. Edited March 28 by KnifeySpoony
Nocturnal005 Posted March 29 Author Posted March 29 Here are the final designs I ended up with, being fabricated now. Anyone can order these themselves with the CAD files provided. Sendcutsend.com can turn these around in about a week. The material to specify is 5000 series aluminum, 0.08" thick. Antigravity ATX-12 HD Caterham Base Plate v11.step Antigravity ATX-12-HD Hold Down v9.step 1
Nocturnal005 Posted March 29 Author Posted March 29 I'll have these in hand hopefully by the time I return to the US and will report back here with pics!
Nocturnal005 Posted March 29 Author Posted March 29 13 hours ago, KnifeySpoony said: Not to dissuade either of you from that slick looking solution, but just fyi this is what I did for my car - I can provide links to parts if you are interested. I really should have specced the car without a heater, looks so clean! I think I'll not drill the heater valve control for now and drive around a bit to see if the heater core is really needed in addition to the heated seats and then decide.
KnifeySpoony Posted March 29 Posted March 29 I see you're also in the bay area. I also see you're running aeroscreen. I'm much more often too hot than too cold in the car. The car roasts you pretty well in anything above 60deg temps. I also don't have carpeting so the metal tunnel conducts heat really well to my right leg. In cold weather, more heat coming underneath the dash doesn't seem all that helpful to me if you're running an aeroscreen. There's so much turbulence at speed that warm air will not stay in the cockpit. On cold AM drives to fall trackdays it is wicked cold. I have heated seats but the cold turbulent air really sucks the heat out of you. However I can't imagine the heater would help all that much unless you are running a hood/sidescreens. Would be more useful to wear a heated jacket/gloves (which I am considering trying after a 36deg drive to Laguna one morning that just about killed me).
MV8 Posted March 29 Posted March 29 Also, usually the cost is just slightly more than one to buy two of something being cut/bent.
Nocturnal005 Posted April 5 Author Posted April 5 On 3/28/2025 at 9:45 PM, KnifeySpoony said: I see you're also in the bay area. I also see you're running aeroscreen. I'm much more often too hot than too cold in the car. The car roasts you pretty well in anything above 60deg temps. I also don't have carpeting so the metal tunnel conducts heat really well to my right leg. In cold weather, more heat coming underneath the dash doesn't seem all that helpful to me if you're running an aeroscreen. There's so much turbulence at speed that warm air will not stay in the cockpit. On cold AM drives to fall trackdays it is wicked cold. I have heated seats but the cold turbulent air really sucks the heat out of you. However I can't imagine the heater would help all that much unless you are running a hood/sidescreens. Would be more useful to wear a heated jacket/gloves (which I am considering trying after a 36deg drive to Laguna one morning that just about killed me). thanks, this is super useful information! I got the battery mount, here are some pics of the progress. 1
Nocturnal005 Posted April 8 Author Posted April 8 Progress update: - Got the ECU flashed via easimap to the RBTB file Caterham provided, tach and seat heaters no longer functioning. The tach was expected, sounds like i need to reconfigure the DIP switches. As for the seat heaters, they only came on w the previous map when the engine was running...I wonder if there's an expected ECU output signal now that is missing w the new hardware. Could use some tips on this one. - After about 6 hours at the DMV I managed to get my SPCNS sequence number from the DMV, which is a major milestone in CA. I can now drive it around and get the required brake, light, VIN inspections done! - Drove it around the block this morning, first time leaving the house. It's intense! Nothing fell off and I didn't notice any leaks, so far so good. The brakes seem a bit soft and the pedal travels further than I thought so I need to try to re-bleed.
KnifeySpoony Posted April 8 Posted April 8 Re: the ECU flash - one of the first files they sent me was incorrect and the heated seats didn't work - they had to update and send another file. Re: the tach - does it not work at all, or just misreading? Definitely rebleed after first drive. Some bubbles always seem to materialize.
Nocturnal005 Posted April 8 Author Posted April 8 16 minutes ago, KnifeySpoony said: Re: the ECU flash - one of the first files they sent me was incorrect and the heated seats didn't work - they had to update and send another file. Re: the tach - does it not work at all, or just misreading? The flash must be 100% the issue. Thanks for chiming in. For the tach, it reads, but extremely low. (200 rpm when it should be 1100) Worked prior to the flash!
KnifeySpoony Posted April 8 Posted April 8 You need to change the dipswitches on the back of the tach.
Nocturnal005 Posted April 9 Author Posted April 9 Re the tach, I got these instructions from Richard over at Kampena (where I purchased the kit). Hope someone finds this helpful. Basically, depending on what the tach is set to, just do the opposite ;). Mine was set to 1,2,8 = 0n. I switched it to 8 = On, all others off and it seems to have worked. "Each tacho can be calibrated/programmed manually by setting a combination of eight switches located underneath the grommet on the rear of the gauge. When you remove this grommet and look inside, I expect that you will find that switches 1,2 and 8 are all flicked upwards. If this is the case then could you please switch down both 1 and 2, leaving only switch 8 flicked upwards. Alternatively, if you find only switch 8 flicked upwards, then you will need to flick up switches 1 and 2. "
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