'Tis the (upgrade) season! What are you doing?

[slowdude]

26 minutes ago, JohnCh said:

 

Thanks for creating the new post.  I've edited your post above to avoid confusion.  Link to the new thread is here:

 

Now back to winter upgrade updates...

@CBuff and @BlakeJ swung by today. They motivated me to finish my horn wiring + helped organize the garage a bit. I owe ya!

Will drag the desktop PC to the garage tomorrow when the rain starts, and see if I can get into the ECU. 

I need to do the following:

1. check the voltage curve on the Wideband O2

2. check the output to the OBD2 gauge

3. set the fuel map to closed loop

4. Unplug the Roll over sensor (thanks @BlakeJ), so I can build up oil pressure

5. Maybe start, depending on the weather.

Edited March 16 by slowdude

[Outbound]

Spring has sprung and almost into summer already.

 

 Got my car tuned yesterday, and a bunch of cooling issues sorted a few weeks ago. Combination of a few things resulted in a brief overheating while sitting in heavy city traffic.

 

- cooling fan thermo switch had gone bad and wouldn’t kick on until wayyy too hot. New bosch one solved that now.

- expansion cap seemed to have cracked rubber seals, so probably wasn’t holding pressure very well.

- nasty old coolant, now fully flushed.

 

 Have a PRRT system here, just waiting on a 32/32mm Tee to show up, and hope that’ll be the last of the cooling concerns.

 

The 1.8K made 171rwhp on the dynojet, which would put it right in line with approximately 200hp crank. But wow, the drivability and smoothness is wildly better. So much nicer to drive now.

 

 

[John B]

That's a nice flat torque curve.

[Slonie]

On 12/24/2024 at 9:55 AM, MV8 said:

There are too many different types of spherical bearings and conditions to limit lubrication to those with fittings. I'd use an aerosol lithium on the bearings and springs or you could just periodically use wd40 to clean and penetrate. Overspray of either will not hurt anything. I'd use dry graphite with a cable lubing tool on the throttle cable if it has not been previously lubed with grease. Dry lube is very messy and watery while the propellant evaporates to leave the graphite.

Sounds like the dual spring is a good idea. May be the typical dual carb springs (dual in case one ever breaks).

 

I'd also look in the throats to look for shiny areas inside where the butterflies may be rubbing on the bottom from the weight of the linkage on the outside.

 

 

 

Well, it took me for freaking ever but I finally did it retrofitted the dual return springs from Borla for my TWM throttle bodies

 

Before, single spring hooked around a small bolt in the throttle arm:

 

The replacement parts from Borla, they knew exactly* what to send when I described my issue and what I wanted to do. The old rusty bolt and the P-shaped fitting were replaced by the bolt with two grooves on it and a locknut that installed above the hole it was threaded into (additional security!)

 

They also sold me a little pin to replace the bolt that previously held one spring in the first photo. It didn't actually fit through that hole though...

 

So since the pin didn't fit, I hooked the two replacement springs on either hold in the throttle arm. I don't believe this is any less secure than going around a pin, probably more secure (it was a little fiddly to get installed)

 

 

 

Initial impressions are that it  did indeed fix the throttle hang symptom, even though it surely isn't solving for the root cause (I believe the root cause may be related to be play in the butterfly pivot in the #1 throttle, which I don't think I can fix myself without sending in for a rebuild, and as @Vovchandr pointed out costs a lot). This probably deserves its own thread in any case as I'm probably not the first or last person to experience it.

 

On 12/19/2024 at 4:49 PM, Slonie said:

I'm gonna try and resolve my throttle hang issue yet again, and find a replacement dipstick as mine broke off in August or September (somehow, it hung on and did not get lost in the bottom of my sump though!)

 

After significant overthinking of the catalog and inability to find a matching NOS Ford dipstick (they are discontinued), I settled on a Dorman 917-312 for "2000-2004 Focus" and it seems to be an exact match for the length of the dipstick that came with Zetec/Raceline sump. Hopefully it stays in one piece this time!