Road Ready Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 I changed the oil in my 7, with new filter. How long should it run to achieve oil pressure? My son did it last; what's normal? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 There should be some indicated pressure within a few seconds, not unlike any car. Low temps and high viscosity oil is slower to show pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 1 hour ago, Road Ready said: I changed the oil in my 7, with new filter. How long should it run to achieve oil pressure? My son did it last; what's normal? John Did you add any oil to the filter when you changed it? I typically will fill it 1/3rd, that way it does not leak out when I install it on the side of the block. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdb Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 My engine builder recommends the following sequence. In 30 years of engine building it has never let him down. DO NOT prefill the oil filter. He is convinced that creates a pocket of air on both sides of the filter, which is bad. Turn the key to start the engine but shut it off the moment the engine catches. Repeat until oil pressure is seen on gauge/light/whatever. Should take no more than 4-5 repeats. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S1Steve Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 (edited) My Zetec takes 3 seconds to show pressure. Like Bill I put a 1/3 in the filter. I have two stainless steel oil lines to the nose mounted oil cooler. You would think it would be longer. Good Luck Edited February 1 by S1Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowdude Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 16 hours ago, wdb said: My engine builder recommends the following sequence. In 30 years of engine building it has never let him down. DO NOT prefill the oil filter. He is convinced that creates a pocket of air on both sides of the filter, which is bad. Turn the key to start the engine but shut it off the moment the engine catches. Repeat until oil pressure is seen on gauge/light/whatever. Should take no more than 4-5 repeats. I agree with this. Especially for higher compression engines. In reality though, it's a ford engine, so if it's filled up, send it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Regarding oil coolers and air pockets being "bad", oil cooler where the cooler fittings are lower than the oil filter will have air pockets since the cooler will not gravity drain, so the delay to pressurization would be less since the cooler is already filled. Ambulances typically have had a sprung piston accumulator that is filled when running and acts like a normal accumulator when cornering (thrifty drysump). The solenoid is closed when the key is turned off, leaving the accumulator under pressure. The solenoid is also controlled by the interior light from opening the driver's door, building pressure before cold cranking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vovchandr Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 18 minutes ago, MV8 said: Ambulances typically have had a sprung piston accumulator that is filled when running and acts like a normal accumulator when cornering (thrifty drysump). The solenoid is closed when the key is turned off, leaving the accumulator under pressure. The solenoid is also controlled by the interior light from opening the driver's door, building pressure before cold cranking. Accusump essentially? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 (edited) Accusump and Moroso are two sources as well as Canton Racing, but they all look the same so maybe some relabeling going on (like major appliances). Kinda shocked at what they cost now. The switches and solenoid are standard, low cost industrial parts. A 1.5 quart should be plenty, light, and compact. A steel or aluminum bottle mounted inverted, that withstand maximum oil pressure, have traditionally been used. They may add an air valve or not, and the push comes from the air compressed by filling with oil. Well pumps use a similar accumulator but have a rubber diaphragm over the water. Edited February 1 by MV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Road Ready Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 Good news! It's a false alarm. I had apparently disconnected a wire from the oil pressure sensor while searching for a way to reach the oil filter. Oil pressure showing as soon as I reconnected it. Thanks for all the good advice. John 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowdude Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 5 hours ago, Road Ready said: Good news! It's a false alarm. I had apparently disconnected a wire from the oil pressure sensor while searching for a way to reach the oil filter. Oil pressure showing as soon as I reconnected it. Thanks for all the good advice. John Very good news! Mine went out on my K series after a year or so of owning it.. Figured it was better to just plumb in a mechanical gauge. That way if its not showing any pressure I know i'm screwed. Also it goes down a lot on right hand corners. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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