Changing to a removable track steering wheel

[Xhilr8n]

The car came with the good looking wood rimmed Caterham wheel, non removable.  It’s nice to look at but not so comfy to drive, and does not suit the rest of this particular car.  I have a nice alcantara OMP on the track Elise, feels so good especially with gloves on.  Today I received a nice little MOMO removable and the upper steering colume.  Looks pretty straight forward but two questions.

 

* I don’t have a shop manual for this car, can someone show a link to this procedure?

 

* What to lubricate the bushing in the instrument panel?  The one I have now is quite squeaky.

 

Yes the pretty wheel will be available.  Perfect for the Sunday picnic sort of themed car.

 

 

 

 

[IamScotticus]

Have part numbers and information on the hub kit?

I would recommend changing hubs, rather than the entire column.   There is a lengthy thread by @Drakman with contributions by @Sloniedocumenting the torturous process.  

See:

Your shaft, if typical, should have these specs:

Center nut: 9/16 X 27 TP

Shaft: 5/8 x 36 spline same as Lotus 7 and

Austin Healy Sprite S1 & 2

 

Edited June 22 by IamScotticus

[MV8]

How did you determine the wheel is not removable?

 

I'd try a common silicone or a teflon spray. Don't want to use anything that may soften the plastic bush.

Edited June 20 by MV8

[Xhilr8n]

Ianscotticus I got into a rig like that with a Rover SD1 decades ago.

 

Mine much simpler, I have it all loose, except for some one safety retaining screw somewhere

[Xhilr8n]

Three bolts and the bracket’s off.  Column slides freely  a couple of inches if oriented right.  Then it feels like it’s finding a retaining screw, that I’m not finding.  Might be one under the column near firewall that’s covered in silicone?

[Slonie]

I think what you're encountering is one of two things: It's either the steering column lock (make sure to put your key in and switch to the unlocked position) or the steering column lock collar hitting the back of the upper column bushing. Here's what I went through!

 

In my case (and others, from reading old forum posts), the column lock collar hitting the back of the bushing can feel like metal on metal contact, which it is. But it'll come out with some force (either yanking like a slide hammer, or applying strong force forward on the steering wheel).

 

 

[Slonie]

The good news is, as of yesterday my second attempt at this job went off without a hitch. You can see more in my replies further down the thread. Tried to put it all in there for people searching to find in the future.

 

When you put it together again make sure to do the two bolts on the column clamp first with the grub screw fully loose, then tighten the grub screw and then the locknut. That's the procedure I've read everywhere.

[Xhilr8n]

Thanks Slonie.  Was hoping for a simple safety screw to remove, but I guess tomorrow I’ll give it a go..

 

As a Dentist (ret) I had a small hammer slide that only one of my assistants could slide it just right to remove half a crown or something elsewhere, that sudden force got it done.  

[Slonie]

As for the assembly manual, it's easy to find if you google it (or probably look in the files section here) but for this procedure I referenced the modern "Ikea" manual:

https://caterhamcars.com/assets/Documents/Assembly Guides/Assembly-Guide_SUZUKI_Edition-1.2.pdf

 

As well as the older one which I think is quite useful to read through (section 3—pages 3, 4, and 5)

https://s7abe6bda7f063e33.jimcontent.com/download/version/1670148388/module/13252701749/name/Caterham Seven Service Assembly Guide.pdf

 

 

 

The other thing to note since you're planning on changing the upper column from a non-removable to a removable one: The removable wheel column doesn't include a steering lock, so you can install the bushing with the column removed. You don't have that option with the steering lock as the collar welded to the column cannot pass through the bushing (in either direction). As a corollary, you can't use the removable-wheel column as a slide hammer for bushing removal (probably a good thing) so you'll have to find other ways.

 

Given the "rubber nubs" on the bushing (see the linked thread) may shear off when you remove the column, you might want to have a replacement on hand.

 

 

[Xhilr8n]

Exactly what I was thinking.  You have one laying around?

 

Seriously I’ll be on that in the morning.  Good superstition to have the part ready.

[Xhilr8n]

Josh at Rocky Mountain told me there was supposed to be a replacement bushing in the shipping tube, which has apparently gone awol.  He’ll supply another.  I only wanted to take on the leaky water feature today anyway 😊

[Xhilr8n]

Here’s the new upper steering column.  Apparently the one I need to remove is made differently?  Have something cleverly welded to it to impede doing anything with it?

 

So I have time to bathe the existing bushing in some lubricant.  I have 27 and 30 guage needles to place it but with what lubricant?

 

Edited June 21 by Xhilr8n

[Xhilr8n]

And here’s the “factory” OEM piece.  A nice looking something has somehow become welded to the poor innocent shaft.

 

Josh is sending a bag of bushings for me to trundle through.   I’ve given the water feature my all and time will reveal the depth of my folly with that.

 

And to complete the circle, there is something of a reason it’s there, knowing this will help me reat better:

 

”It's for the steering column lock off of whatever original Thatcher-era British Leyland horror the original upper column is from. (UK road inspection requirement.) 
As the QR version is custom, it consciously omits the lock as everyone loathes it: pushing the Seven around the garage is impossible with the lock unless the ignition is turned on. And of course one immediately forgets the keys are in the lock barrel -- upon finally remembering, comes back to find a dead battery.)

 

I have already done that, have it on a tender now like the Elise.

Edited June 21 by Xhilr8n

[Slonie]

Yup, you’ve discovered the infamous column lock, which you will be rid of after swapping columns! Don’t worry, the old one will come out with a bang given enough encouragement. But again, make sure your key is in the unlocked position first or the lock itself will be preventing removal (or so I’ve read). The second stop is when the collar hits the bushing. At that point you’re gonna need to apply force or push and then yank. 

[Xhilr8n]

And it’s done.  The little pond is holding water at a test level, and the steering column is out!  Did just what y’all said, a penetrating bath every 30 minutes, opened the key and out she came.

 

After 45 years of extracting teeth I know this feeling of success well, carrying the intact prize around the office to show staff how lucky I’d been!!!

 

Seriously guys, I used to a sliding hammer a lot in the mouth over the years, it’s all about correct line of draw and a committed strike.

 

Next hurdle,retrieve the bushing.  Red lock tite is evident….

 

 

Edited June 21 by Xhilr8n

[Xhilr8n]

This is how far I got disassembling the wooden steering wheel to retrieve that bushing.  It looks fine, both dogears intact as new.

 

i got the locknot off from inside the set up dut can’t decide if this housing is rhreaded on or friction fit.

 

Or should I just leave it on there for the next owner of the wheel?  I have one on the way and am now seem to think I’m fairly knowledgeable.

[Xhilr8n]

And it seems like we’re fairly close to center, not driven yet to test.  I’d rather not learn about splines in the steering rack this week if possible.  Much less alignment suspension settings….😱

 

Notice reflection of Lotus sign

[KnifeySpoony]

looking proper racecar now

[Xhilr8n]

I’m going to investigate having it recovered in red alcantara with black stitching and yellow stripe on top.  And pad it out with tennis racquet grip to better fit my hands large palms smaller fingers) under the new covering.  Easy to leave it at their shop now.

[Slonie]

3 hours ago, Xhilr8n said:

 

i got the locknot off from inside the set up dut can’t decide if this housing is rhreaded on or friction fit.

it’s got splines, if you put it in a vise and re-attach the steering wheel you should be able to pull-and-wiggle it off, I didn’t think of that at the time and instead got a jaw puller to take it off (which worked!)

 

The second time I did the job (after my first botched install) it came right off without using a jaw puller or anything. You might get lucky and be able to pull the boss off without any help…