pethier Posted June 30 Author Posted June 30 10 hours ago, Croc said: And part numbers plus cross match to original vehicles. You can buy it cheaper knowing this. Look what 5 minutes of using the search function on this site can surface. THANKS! I tried all kinds of searches, and didn't find that. I'm standing on the shoulders of giants. Part number has been superseded. I have ordered the pump. I will add to the thread,
pethier Posted June 30 Author Posted June 30 8 minutes ago, pethier said: THANKS! I tried all kinds of searches, and didn't find that. I'm standing on the shoulders of giants. Part number has been superseded. I have ordered the pump. I will add to the thread, This part has been superseded Use WFX100631P Not exactly a monumental part-number change. I think it means they can't get the originals anymore and this is a repro.
pethier Posted July 1 Author Posted July 1 (edited) Unscrewed the CO2 cylinder: It's 1/2"-20. Went to Menards and bought a bolt. Wrapped it up with gas tape and screwed it into the port. Next I will cap the outputs and then remove the big red bottle from the car. Not going to try to save the alum tubing. Hope the SLR roll cage does not give me any trouble getting the honeycomb out like the roll bar on the 1700 did. Edited July 1 by pethier clarificaton
JohnCh Posted July 1 Posted July 1 When you have the honeycomb removed, cut it into two pieces before refitting. That changes this process from a frustrating headache to a few minutes with a screwdriver the next time the floor needs to come out. Short write up of how I did mine here:
pethier Posted July 1 Author Posted July 1 2 hours ago, JohnCh said: When you have the honeycomb removed, cut it into two pieces before refitting. That changes this process from a frustrating headache to a few minutes with a screwdriver the next time the floor needs to come out. Short write up of how I did mine here: On my 1991 1700, I cut one inch off each end of the honeycomb. The light alum sheet that sits atop the honeycomb easily cantilevers and supports carpet and contents. i will look at your stuff and see what you did.
pethier Posted July 1 Author Posted July 1 The honeycomb was simple to cut with a table saw using a sled. Just feed it slowly and use a carbide blade. Have fun with the shop vac getting all those tiny alum chips.
KnifeySpoony Posted July 1 Posted July 1 (edited) I thought the boot floor was intended to provide some structural rigidity, also protection for the fuel tank... Edited July 1 by KnifeySpoony
pethier Posted July 1 Author Posted July 1 4 minutes ago, KnifeySpoony said: I thought the boot floor was intended to provide some structural rigidity, also protection for the fuel tank... I think it is mostly to hold up whatever cargo you put in the boot. I don't think that the cuts that either I or John did compromise the structure of the car. My 1979 Caterham had only very-thin plywood. I added my own alum sheet to that car just to satisfy some autocross rule about metal between tank and driver.I made my own alum housing over the fill hose, since that car had none.
KnifeySpoony Posted July 1 Posted July 1 Well, with a full cage, you're already ahead of the game on rigidity. I do wonder about fuel tank if a rear-ender though. Either way, the boot floor is not that hard to get out in my experience. After pulling the screws it's about 7 seconds of fiddling to get it out.
JohnCh Posted July 1 Posted July 1 Caterham's tolerances can make boot floor removal an arduous task on some cars. Count yourself lucky if you got yours out so quickly. As for any detriment to crash worthiness or structural rigidity, I'll defer to a mechanical engineer, but I struggle to see how the floor as fitted -- even after cutting in two -- will make a meaningful difference. It's not exactly a properly stressed panel given it's held in place by just seven #10 sheet metal screws fitted into holes with loose tolerances. I imagine any impact causing sufficient damage to the frame where that panel will help, will easily pop those screws out of the frame, rendering it a piece of floating honeycomb. That may still offer some piercing protection for the tank from above, but the fact it's now two pieces vs. one seems unlikely to make a difference in anything other than an edge case. 1
pethier Posted July 1 Author Posted July 1 3 hours ago, KnifeySpoony said: the boot floor is not that hard to get out in my experience. After pulling the screws it's about 7 seconds of fiddling to get it out. On my 1991 S3 with an FIA roll bar the honeycomb boot floor was impossible to get out. The roll bar flanges blocked it. it was a real job getting the roll bar off of the car. I cleaned the cup in the frame and flooded it with anti-seize in case I ever need to remove the roll bar again With one inch trimmed off each end of the honeycomb, it just clears, so the roll bar can stay on.
KnifeySpoony Posted July 1 Posted July 1 Sounds like a PITA. Would definitely suck to have to pull the rollbar just to take out the boot floor.
pethier Posted July 1 Author Posted July 1 40 minutes ago, KnifeySpoony said: Sounds like a PITA. Would definitely suck to have to pull the rollbar just to take out the boot floor. Yeah, it was a pain. Good news, your prediction of little difficulty taking the honeycomb out of the CSR was right on the button. Structural? Hell, it was barely attached! Pix to follow: I have a football match to watch. USA! USA!
pethier Posted July 2 Author Posted July 2 4 hours ago, KnifeySpoony said: Sounds like a PITA. Would definitely suck to have to pull the rollbar just to take out the boot floor. Not only that. The filler port on the tank is surrounded by the honeycomb, so every time you take out the honeycomb you need to disassemble the filler assembly. Here is my 1991 honeycomb hanging on the wall because I can't reinstall it due to the workaround for the pickup problem in the tank.
pethier Posted July 2 Author Posted July 2 The honeycomb in the CSR was held in directly only by two screws. Three more screws went through the metal piece which held down the leading edge. These screws did not go through the honeycomb. The trailing edge of the honeycomb had no screws in it all all.
pethier Posted July 2 Author Posted July 2 With some difficulty, the honeycomb did come out of the car. For one thing, the SLR cage does not have the flanges that the FIA rollbar has. To made reinstallation easier, I put the table saw and sled to work. A slight trim to the front corners of the honeycomb should do it. The sharper corner got a bit of rounding from the oscillating drum sander.
pethier Posted July 2 Author Posted July 2 Fuel pump and gauge sender bulkhead. I can't believe how tiny these wires are.
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