LSB2468 - even numbers for an odd car

[Darcy]

Darcy here again,

 

I got the battery hooked up yesterday and heard the car run for the first time.  So far so good.  It starts well.  Seems cold blooded, and likes some choke to keep running for the first 5-7 minutes.  After that it idles Ok.  It is about 1200 feet higher where I live compared to where it was for the last 55 years, so I might need to tweak the carb a bit. 

 

A couple of things I noticed:

1. The clutch has a heavy spring, which is manageable, but the engagement is like a light switch. I have never used a clutch that was so difficult to modulate.  Gear changes from 2->3->4 and down are Ok.  Pulling away in 1st is brutal.  It can't be right. 

2. There is a loud clunk coming from the rear end when the car leaps away.  I'm not sure, but sounds like something is loose.  There is no sound from the diff that I can hear.  it is only when it fully engages in a microsecond. 

3. While trying to pull away from a stop and being ultra careful with the clutch, the car shudders quite badly This aggravates item 2. 

4. It was only after I put it in reverse did I realize this car has no mirrors.  ?  I guess I need to find some small British mirrors that will go well on the car.  

5. The 55 year old tires felt like wooden blocks.  Pirellis are on order. 

6. Car needs some kind of wind deflectors.  Who makes the best ones you can buy? 
7. Oh dear, when I got home I noticed a trail of drips into my garage.  It seems the oil filter is leaking.  Thankfully I only drove a few kms. 

 

Engine revs freely, shifts nice.  Brakes are smooth.  Steers quick. 

 

This is going to be an interesting adventure. 

[theDreamer]

@Darcy here is my take on your questions.

 

#1 Your car may have a racing style clutch which, by designed, is not to be slipped. Having driven racing cars and ridden dry clutch motorcycles, getting the revs up and letting out the clutch quickly has become second nature to me. It takes practice and patience but you can master it. if you cannot avoid traffic lights be sure to let the vehicle in front of you get sufficiently ahead before you “pop” the clutch. You’ll be up their tail pipe in flash if not careful. Probably some YouTube videos out there to show you how to modulate the throttle, you need to give it enough so as not to stall but once rolling be ready to back off a bit.

#2 most likely “A” frame bushings are shot. This was something that turned me off several good cars before I learned what was making the noise and how easy a fix it is.

#3 See answer to #1.

#4 There are several period correct types available. I suggest getting the type that mount to the leading edge of the windscreen mounts. They slide over the edge and are held by machine screws tightened against the inside edge. No drilling required. (see image)

#6 I’m not sure as it depends on the spacing of the door pins. I’d suggest driving with the doors on until you find out from the Lotus S2 & S3 owners in the group what they have. Many of us drive with doors on and some have bought or made draft reducers to go around or behind the headrest or the roll bar. However, not applicable in your case at this point. (see image of the wife and I arriving at British Car Day after a three hour drive on 400 series highways)

#7 Congratulations, you own a legitimate Little Britsh Car. You can tell because they like to mark their territory.

 

Edited August 18 by theDreamer

[SENC]

Check the slave and master cylinders for their sizes - as they've been replaced over the years, it isn't unusual for them to get replaced in different sizes, resulting in varying clutch pressures and travel.  Getting the sizes "right" isn't straightforward, as there is conflicting literature from Girling, Lotus, and one or more of the more reputable parts vendors.  I seem to remember a thread here on the tioic that included some of those references - if you do a search on this site for clutch cylinders you may come across it.  I'll poke around and see if I see it.

 

People's reports on wind reflectors are that they are hit or miss.  I have a pair from Redline, and they are a marginal improvement, but I'd rather have them on than off.  Of course, the issue isn't really wind, but the aerodynamics (or lack thereof) in these cars.  Between the brick shape and the nearly vertical windscreen, at any speed you're developing a big low pressure area in the cockpit - and sucking in the air.  Deflectors MAY shift that slightly away from your ears.  I've long thought a better solution would be to find a way to route air into the cockpit centrally - either a duct underneath into the cabin or a Miata-style windscreen mount.

[SENC]

This thread may be useful if you find yourself chasing clutch issues.

 

https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/14928-super-seven-s2-clutch-issues/

[m2711c]

47 minutes ago, SENC said:

 

People's reports on wind reflectors are that they are hit or miss.  I have a pair from Redline, and they are a marginal improvement, but I'd rather have them on than off.  Of course, the issue isn't really wind, but the aerodynamics (or lack thereof) in these cars.  Between the brick shape and the nearly vertical windscreen, at any speed you're developing a big low pressure area in the cockpit - and sucking in the air.  Deflectors MAY shift that slightly away from your ears.  I've long thought a better solution would be to find a way to route air into the cockpit centrally - either a duct underneath into the cabin or a Miata-style windscreen mount.

yeah, I’ve had a similar thought.

 

I was thinking some side vents near the bottom of the footwells should help with clearing the excess heat out of the footwells and help alleviate the low pressure developing behind the windshield.

 

Something like you see on this Crosley  Super Sports

 

[JohnCh]

Thread title changed and thread moved to the Build Threads forum per @Darcy's request.

[Darcy]

So, I bought the JBW D1 wheels from the UK, plus a set of Pirelli Cinturatos from Longstone Tyres.  Both JBW and Longstone were fast and competitively priced. Ordered tires Monday and delivery in BC Canada on Thursday via DHL.  Impressive. 

 

New problem:  It appears the thickness of the mounting area is slightly thicker than the steel wheels, probably because they are aluminum, so the stock studs are a little too short.  Of course they are 7/16-20 tpi studs, and they appear to be about 1 1/8" from the base of the head to the end of the stud.  I think 1 1/2" studs would fit under the original wheel covers on the steel wheels and also inside the new domed nuts that came with the alloy wheels. 

 

Does anyone know the size of the knurled diameter? I checked around, but have not had any luck yet.  

[Darcy]

I realized I had no choice but to take off the front disc and rear drum to get a closer look, so I pressed out a couple. Both studs have 0.51 knurled diameter. The front studs are 1 1/8" long and the rear studs are 1 1/4" long.  So I ordered a couple of packages of Dorman 1 1/2" studs.

 

[Darcy]

I have been gradually working through the car checking and learning. I purchased on Bring A Trailer.  The owner would not allow an inspection of the car and the driving videos were suspiciously short. I knew all was not going to be good. In my only short road test I noticed a nasty clunk under the rear end. I pulled off the A frame and these are probably as bad as you can get without falling off.  Searching for parts now... 

I called Dave Bean, and received a message that they are only open on Mondays and Tuesdays.  Are they still supplying bits for Sevens? Their web site is a return to the '90s.

I sent a message to Redline, but have had no response.  

It appears that Caterhamparts.co.uk has some of the parts, but not the bushings at the forward two A frame mounts.

Any other suggestions? Any help greatly appreciated. 

[Darcy]

So, I have been pondering where I should go with this car, and my inclination is to leave it essentially stock, with hidden safety/running improvements. 

I have to fix the rusty bits.  The exhaust system is particularly ugly.  I will probably install an electronic points replacement with a more powerful coil to match.  A dual master cylinder update of some type is another update I would be happy to install if it could be done cleanly. 

I am considering taking the car back to how it might have been originally delivered to Lotus Canada with bare aluminum hood and body.  It was definitely painted after assembly, because I am finding yellow paint on suspension parts, wheel drums, and more.

How difficult is it to strip the paint off the aluminum? 

[JohnCh]

It can be difficult to reach Ken at Dave Bean these days. A few other US sources who may have the parts are:

https://rockymountaincaterham.com/

https://www.beachmanracing.com/

https://www.rdent.com/

[EdWills]

1 hour ago, Darcy said:

I have been gradually working through the car checking and learning. I purchased on Bring A Trailer.  The owner would not allow an inspection of the car and the driving videos were suspiciously short. I knew all was not going to be good. In my only short road test I noticed a nasty clunk under the rear end. I pulled off the A frame and these are probably as bad as you can get without falling off.  Searching for parts now... 

I called Dave Bean, and received a message that they are only open on Mondays and Tuesdays.  Are they still supplying bits for Sevens? Their web site is a return to the '90s.

I sent a message to Redline, but have had no response.  

It appears that Caterhamparts.co.uk has some of the parts, but not the bushings at the forward two A frame mounts.

Any other suggestions? Any help greatly appreciated. 

Hi Darcy.

 

I have brand new spares of the bushes that you require for the 'A' frame, and you can have them for what I paid for them plus postage from Calgary to Kelowna.  Let me know if this if of use to you. W

[EdWills]

@Darcy.  If you check the web for Hagerty.com or enter "The Lotus Seven and a lightness of spirit" you will find a 'sister' car to yours.  Second owner for 13 years was David Ellis of Vancouver B.C., who passed away some years ago. The car is now owned by Rory Banks of the Lotus Club of B.C.  A Lotus factory built car similar to yours, all yellow, and in original appearance as per your car. It is possible both your car and the Ellis/Banks car came from the same dealership in Vancouver.   Mr. Banks produced a YouTube video of his car, but it has very shaky camera work, and hard to make out any detail.  I do not have the Lotus chassis number for the Ellis/Banks car. 

 

The bushes for the rear  of the 'A' bracket where it attaches to the axle are Y16, and the front bushes of the 'A' frame are 636. Tony Weale in his book notes that the Y16 are a superior bush to the Y9s that are fitted to the front inner wishbone location on a Lotus Seven.  Later Caterham 7s used the Y16 in place of the Y9 with a bolt and possibly a spacer in place of the spindle welded to the front of the Lotus frame..   W.

[Darcy]

@EdWills I found the story.  That was fantastic.  His car is definitely close.  It's interesting that his was registered as a '69.  It's possible that mine sat on a showroom floor for a little longer and was registered as a '70.  I am so glad I purchased those JBW wheels.  He was running them.  I see the same Dunlop centre cap logo that the wheels came with.  

I'm searching for a Lotus Yellow/Green centre cap as I think it would be nice on a factory built car.  No one knows what these cars are, so it needs a few badges for car shows.  I haven't taken you up on your offer for the bushings yet, because I'm hoping to speak to someone tomorrow morning in the UK about parts.  I need more than the bushings so it would be good to get a little shipment.  If I can find a complete replacement set for the front and rear, I'll buy them from the UK. 

Unfortunately, my car will never look as good as David's because there are a lot of chips in the paint.  The 40 years it spent unlicensed in a garage was not kind to it. I am kind of excited about having a classic car that I don't have to worry about parking.  I have another, American "sports" car, that I restored and it is far too pretty to park and walk away.  Hopefully it won't upset too many people in this forum , but here it is: 

Edited Sunday at 08:14 PM by Darcy
Just added Ed

[EdWills]

On 8/29/2026 at 10:10 AM, Darcy said:

I am considering taking the car back to how it might have been originally delivered to Lotus Canada with bare aluminum hood and body.  It was definitely painted after assembly, because I am finding yellow paint on suspension parts, wheel drums, and more.

How difficult is it to strip the paint off the aluminum? 

Hi @Darcy.  Just a bit of info regarding your plan to strip your car back to bare alloy.  I was just checking some original chromed bonnet catches and grey painted parts from my 1969 Series 3 Seven (fully constructed in October 1968 at the Lotus Factory, Hethel, Norfolk).  I noticed that the original metallic blue factory applied paint that Lotus used on a few Series 3 cars shipped abroad, (and sold in the U.K.), had sprayed over onto these parts and had remained on the car without the two previous owners or myself removing the overspray. For this to happen, I'm assuming that the parts had to already be attached to the car?  I am also guessing that Lotus were busy turning out the new Series 3 and masking tape (or similar in 1968?) back then wasn't as good as it is now or the newspaper wrapped tubing wasn't that well applied?  It may also of course have been painted at the location in Canada where it was sold.  On the BAT site, you were in contact with John Collier of Edmonton who also has an all yellow Series 3.  You could check with him about the paint finish on his car.  Also, the Lotus Seven Registrar should have a record of the colour of your car as it left the factory.  The Registrar should be amenable to providing full details on the car, if he has them., as you are the new owner.  He did not have any details for my car that was imported by the Lotus Concessionaires in Toronto, but I was able to obtain them directly from Lotus when I purchased the car. Cheers, W

[EdWills]

1 hour ago, Darcy said:

@EdWills I found the story.  That was fantastic.  His car is definitely close.  It's interesting that his was registered as a '69.  It's possible that mine sat on a showroom floor for a little longer and was registered as a '70.  I am so glad I purchased those JBW wheels.  He was running them.  I see the same Dunlop centre cap logo that the wheels came with.  

I'm searching for a Lotus Yellow/Green centre cap as I think it would be nice on a factory built car.  No one knows what these cars are, so it needs a few badges for car shows.  I haven't taken you up on your offer for the bushings yet, because I'm hoping to speak to someone tomorrow morning in the UK about parts.  I need more than the bushings so it would be good to get a little shipment.  If I can find a complete replacement set for the front and rear, I'll buy them from the UK. 

Unfortunately, my car will never look as good as David's because there are a lot of chips in the paint.  The 40 years it spent unlicensed in a garage was not kind to it. I am kind of excited about having a classic car that I don't have to worry about parking.  I have another, American "sports" car, that I restored and it is far too pretty to park and walk away.  Hopefully it won't upset too many people in this forum , but here it is: 

Coincidentally, that is just about the correct metallic blue that my Seven would have had from the factory.  Your car looks magnificent!  I have seen a photo of a Seven SS twin-cam in the same metallic blue original finish. Regarding badges on a Seven.  Although I had some back and forth communication with the Lotus Seven Registrar on the subject, most - and I do not propose all - Seven Series 3 cars produced after August 1968, and sold in 1969 - that I have seen in Canada, have the black Jim Clark memorial badge attached which may also have been fitted to Elans, Europas F.F. cars etc.  The black badge may have carried over into cars sold in 1970 as Lotus was using them up.  Not to get too much into it here, but a very good Lotus Elan site discusses the history and some disagreements regarding the use of the black memorial badge applied to some of the cars before this time. W

 

No problem regarding the bushes.  One company noted by @JohnCh sells a full set for $271.00 U.S., but not sure what the taxes will be on top of this?  Caterham Cars still show some on their web site.  Good luck with your refurbishment, and keep the build details rolling please.Cheers. W.

Edited Sunday at 10:00 PM by EdWills

[IamScotticus]

@Darcy where are the pictures your S3?

 

If you can't get a full bush set in the north Americas, all you should have to do is tell Chris at Redline UK what you have and he will send what you need. and probably a new silencer bobbin too.  Crossflow live axle sets from Caterham should have most of what you need but there are probably some differences. So I would stick with Redline for this.  you really should have the Tony Weale book.  for vintage, but not too vintage,  electrics get the Auto Electric Supplies LTD catalog.

Scott

Edited Monday at 04:21 AM by IamScotticus

[Darcy]

14 hours ago, EdWills said:

The Registrar should be amenable to providing full details on the car, if he has them., as you are the new owner.

I am guessing that when you speak of the Registrar, are you referring to John Watson? He did provide the information I have on the car.  Ex works date: May 28, 1969. Other information aligned perfectly. Even the key number. But he said that the information from the factory did not include the colour of the car. 

 

7 hours ago, IamScotticus said:

you really should have the Tony Weale book.

I have borrowed a copy of the Tony Weale book.  It is excellent and I am trying to absorb it as time permits.  I'll track down the Auto Electric Supplies catalog. 

[EdWills]

Hi Darcy.  

 

Did you also order inner tubes for your Pirelli Cinturatos?  I believe that Longstone Tyres recommend inner tubes even if the rims are steel or alloy.  My car came from the second owner with Cinturatos fitted with inner tubes to the 5-1/2 J Cortina steel rims.  He used 185s, but kept the spare as a 165 width. W.

[Darcy]

No, they are tubeless. These wheels are designed for tubeless tires. I put on 165s all around. Hopefully I’ll wear them out and can try 185s.