locost7018 Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 More details after the first of the year. Russ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbanker Posted December 24, 2017 Share Posted December 24, 2017 Shane, your build is a true work of art. My hope is that I get to see it in person one of these days. Congratulations on a stellar job well done. Last Friday Dave and I declared that chassis #106 was finally done..!! We fought some electrical grimlins that turned out to be in The EZ Wiring kit quality issue (hot wire in the directional signal circuit that should have been a ground wire). All the electricals are working perfect now. Merry Christmas and a fantastic New Year to you and your family. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted December 25, 2017 Author Share Posted December 25, 2017 Jack, Thanks for the kind comments. It's good to know that Dave's car is sorted and complete. Here's to us all getting together down the road. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 Well, took the Storker out for its first 'real' run today; that is, out of the neighborhood and off for a few miles of driving. The video quality isn't very good (lousy at best; hastily shot with an iPhone) and there's lots of wind noise. However, it felt good to hit the open road if only for a bit. I would have preferred a warmer temp, but it was tolerable cool at 49 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anaximander Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Shane, Big time congrats on the rise of the Phoenix just before the New Year! Suave was probably jealous not being able to go on the first ride although the temps may have been too cold for our feathery friend. The car looks beautiful. I can't believe that all of those wild colors came together so well. Who would have thunk it? All of the vents make the car look like a space machine from another planet. Safe journeys and no flying acrobatics with this one. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MightyMike Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Glad to see she's running again Shane. Congrats on such a beautiful rebuild! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locost7018 Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 I hope to see her in person at our May Midwest Se7ens Gathering in NW Arkansas. Russ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 (edited) For interested parties (owners, builders, rebuilders of Classis Stalkers, etc.), I’ve posted progressive build albums in the Stalker V6 Gallery (yep, still using the old gallery). While I’ve posted along the way here in this thread, the links below will take you directly to each album where each may contain a few more detailed photos. X :willy_nilly: New Chassis Construction New Chassis Arrival Aluminum Panels (fitment, new chassis) Fiberglass Panels (fitment, new chassis) Drive Train (fitment, new chassis) Front Suspension (fitment, new chassis) Header and Exhaust (fitment, new chassis) Brakes (fitment, new chassis) 7 Grill Radiator (fitment, new chassis) Pedals (fitment, new chassis Seats (fitment, new chassis) Fuel Tank (fitment, new chassis) Rear Frame Rail Modification Fenders (fitment, new chassis) Roller (on the ground) Powder Coat Paint Aluminum Panels (final assembly) Rear End (final assembly) Fiberglass Panels and Firewall (final build fitment) Steering (final assembly) Front Suspension (final assembly) Brakes (final assembly) New C&R Racing Radiator (fitment / assembly) Accusump (new build: fitment and install) LS3 (final install) Diffuser (build, fitment and install) Fenders (final fitment / install) Fuel Tank / System (final assembly) Drive Shaft Safety Loop (new build) Electrical (new build) Mirrors (carbon fiber) Wings (new build) Oil / Air Separator (new build) Header and Exhaust (final assembly) Pedals (final assembly) Oil Cooler (new build) Seats and Harnesses (new build) Finished Car (new build) Edited January 8, 2018 by xcarguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 (edited) Returned last night to Eldo after a two-day trip over to SNL Performance in Haslet, TX where James Karger (Tuner for SNL) and I spent the better part of Tuesday morning tuning the Storker. Ended up with 501hp / 485tq at the wheels. For LS guys, and interested parties, basic engine package is: L92 aluminum short block (yep, it's a 376cid truck motor) Massaged LS6 (243 castings) heads by TEA TEA Stage II LS6 Heads LS7 lifters ARP Head Bolts Custom ground camshaft (227/230 .641/.600 111+3) Callies core LSX ported / shimmed oil pump FAST 102mm intake manifold Nick Williams 102mm throttle body Manley 7.4" hardened push rods Racetronix 42lb injectors NGK TR6 plugs (gapped at .035) Tuned on 93 octane (no ethanol) Monster Clutch twin disk setup with light weight flywheel Monster Clutch LT1-S Improved Racing aluminum crank scraper/windage tray combo PennGrade 5W30 partial synthetic oil Link to dyno Edited January 11, 2018 by xcarguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowss7 Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Nice Shane, but you need to get that motor to rev a little. All Done by 6000rpm? Heck our fun barely starts at 6K. Watching my dyno pulls to over 8600 rpm made my heart race and my butt pucker. Yours was so quiet I thought it was Idling. :jester: Hope to see and hear it at NJMP this summer. Make it happen. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 Well, this finishes off the ‘new’ look for the new ‘old’ Storker. I’ve always loved the look of the minilite wheel, but never thought there was any company out there that produced the size I would want/need for street trim. Along comes Trans Am Race Engeering out of Australia to answer the call with what they call the Superlite. TARE producs exactly the size and width I needed for the street; 17x8 up front and 17x9.5 in the rear; somewhat aimed at the Poe touring guys. They can do custom offsets (up to a minimum of 4.5” for the 9.5” width; I’m running a .5” spacer to take me back to 4” BS for the rear) as well as whatever bolt pattern you require (yep, 5x4.75 for us GM guys). There wheels are even available through Summit Racing in various widths/sizes and back spacing. TARE has a distributor in CA who stocks blanks which can be machined and shipped to you on this side of the world. Wheels come standard with a clear powder coat on the outside, but can easily be painted/powder coated to suit. I used Dupli-Color’s Adhesion Promoter, 105 Bronze Wheel coating and Matt wheel coating to give the wheels the look I wanted. And easy touch up if things go south. :jester: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MightyMike Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 Those are some awesome looking wheels! How did the Dupli-Color turn out? I may have to start delivering pizzas on the side to afford a set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 Interestingly you have chosen the Superlite wheels that I am planning to buy for the Torana - 15x10 all round - polished rim, black inner powder coat. They use them on Touring Car Masters race series vehicles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 Mike, I also have a set of 15x10 with 4.5” backspacing for track use. What bolt pattern do you need? I’ve painted these a darker bronze since this photo was taken, but here is how they look; a bit more dish than the 17” wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 (edited) Not mounted, but an idea of how the darker bronze turned out. Used a black base coat and three top coats of bronze. Edited February 19, 2018 by xcarguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 (edited) Bolt pattern is GM Chevy. The deeper dish is what I was expecting and like. Not sure the bronze (brown toning) works on my older car especially well, so for me would need to be a black or a deep charcoal powder coat but that it easily chosen. Backspacing is yet to be finalized given we are playing with front geometry. They do look really good! Edited February 19, 2018 by Croc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 I’m feeling it. :Chevy_anim: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 Bronze/gold; goes with your color scheme. How about a lighter bronze . . . :lurk: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 I know the former owner of the Mandurah car. He gave me the idea for the superlite wheels. His were silver powdercoat with polished rim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 (edited) How did the Dupli-Color turn out? I may have to start delivering pizzas on the side to afford a set. Mike, The Dupli-Color actually turned out much better than expected. Prep was minimal because the wheels were new (just a spray and wipe down with Windex, and a blow dry with an air hose). I purchased a Krylon pistol grip paint can sprayer attachment from Home Depot (these pretty much fit any aerosol paint can of any brand and make all the difference in the world in application; no residual overspray on what would normally be a tired finger from repetitively pressing the spray nozzle). The Dupli-Color wheel coating is a much higher quality paint (reflected in the price per can cost; see Summit Racing) than your normal rattle-can product. It’s an acrylic enamel that produces fairly tough finish if prep and application are followed per the teeny tiny inructions on the back of the can; a phone call to Dupli-Color tech also gave me a bit more product confidence. The paint has a very quick drying time with recommended time between coats being a three minutes which worked great, although I did go 5-10 minutes between coats during painting. For the 17” wheels, I did two coats of adhesion promoter followed by three coats of bronze and two coats of matte finish. For the 15” wheels, I used the same process, but included a black base coat underneath the bronze to produce the darker antiqued bronze look. In truth, the most difficult and time-consuming process was taping off the wheels. BTW, your the lucky recipient of post #3000. This is good for a batch of hot wings the next time I’m in Denver. :jester: Edited February 25, 2018 by xcarguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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