Broken Clam Bracket

[sdaddy]

While out for a drive this afternoon, the passenger side clamshell suddenly tilts back, front in the air and bottom rubbing the wheel. It was one bolt easy to pull off to get home and the problem is obvious, the metal strip bolted to the fiberglass clam is broken :puke:

 

The car is an '02 Birkin and the broken piece looks like:

 

 

Does anyone know where to get another piece reasonably and how to keep this part from breaking in the future?

[xcarguy]

Looks like a stress fracture. Do you still have the piece that broke away? If so, weld if back together and reuse it. If not and you need a replacement, and can't readily locate one, the bracket should be fairly easy to fabricate. My two cents. :rofl:

 

X

[BCBirk]

I had the same issue, and unfortunately my 'farmer weld' only lasted a few days --the metal is very thin and weak.

 

A fairly simple solution is to drill and bend a piece if aluminum flat bar. If you didn't lose the threaded insert, you can shorten some bolts and attache to the wing stay from both sides --gives a nice solid fit. If you've lost the insert, you'll need to drill-out the outside end of the stay.

 

If you're running 205's, you'll need to grind down the inside bolt to get adequate clearance.

[sdaddy]

I had the same issue, and unfortunately my 'farmer weld' only lasted a few days --the metal is very thin and weak.

 

A fairly simple solution is to drill and bend a piece if aluminum flat bar. If you didn't lose the threaded insert, you can shorten some bolts and attache to the wing stay from both sides --gives a nice solid fit. If you've lost the insert, you'll need to drill-out the outside end of the stay.

 

If you're running 205's, you'll need to grind down the inside bolt to get adequate clearance.

 

This is great. Thanks!

[Pe7e]

My two cents for improvement:

 

Use steel (about 1/3 the thickness of the aluminum, if you want it to weigh about the same). The steel will have a much higher number of cycles to failure than the aluminum (or aluminium for Croc and others ). If properly stressed, though it appears that stays are often over-stressed, steel will have a virtually infinite cycle life, aluminum's cycles are numbered. Not that I'm a big Wikipedia fan, but "Fatigue limit" is a good intro. to the topic.

 

The main cause of stress failures in steel is the existence of some sort of stress riser, such as a tight bend, a spot of corrosion, a poorly concieved or executed weld, or a hole or some other change in section. Therefore, try to soften the inside corner bend radius.

 

 

Pete

[Hettric]

Agree with Pete above. My experience(on my step van) with bent aluminum brackets in a high vibration environment has shown them to be distressingly short lived.

[coffee break]

How long did the last before it broke? (mileage) Lotus didn't make parts to last forever. If lasted 10 or 20k, it may take some time to rack up those kind of miles.

[Hettric]

How long did the last before it broke? (mileage) Lotus didn't make parts to last forever. If lasted 10 or 20k, it may take some time to rack up those kind of miles.

 

I only drive the truck 400-500 miles a year, they didn't last that long. Granted it was 1/8" hardware store grade aluminum holding the grill, but the principle is the same, and there was very little stress-just vibration. Tried twice, broke at the bend, if they were cut out of plate rather than bent---maybe.

[sdaddy]

The title should have said "Cycle Bracket" rather than clam....

 

My car has less than 3K miles. I've fabricated one from 1/8" mild steel, double from the mounting to first fender bolt (around the 90 degree bend). I also have purchased a couple of new ones that should arrive in September from S. Africa...

[Automoda]

Birkin brackets break. I had one break and I had it welded. But then I decided to put some kodiak wheels on it and RA1 tires. Suddenly there was no way that the cycle fenders would fit anymore. So I made some new brackets-- the part that runs along the underside of the fiberglass and plugs into the posts that stick up.

 

Here's what I did:

 

Machined a cylinder that fits into the post that sticks up from the hub. Drill and tap it. Then I got a strip of steel (hardware store) that wasnt crazy thick but reasonably sturdy. I bent it to match the shape of the old bracket (plus a little height for the clearance changes I needed). Once I had it so the fender would mount the way I wanted, I got some steel bar stock and, using a torch, heated it up and bent it blacksmith style to follow the outer edge of the steel strip. It looped around the edges and turned out pretty nice. Weld the strip to the bar stock in a solid manner and paint it with POR15 or something.

 

Yeah, I know. Its a pain in the ass but I guarantee I've got the sturdiest brackets a Birkin ever had!

 

Also I have my old ones still--and dont want em anymore. One broke and was rewelded. They'll both break again. But if you need brackets to get by in a pinch, PM me. Pay shipping and they're yours... if I can dig them up.

[HankMauel]

Make two new brackets...it's only a matter of time until the other side follows suit!

[sdaddy]

Another one broke! Does anyone "manufacturer" replacement Birkin brackets that won't break and are not too heavy? I hammered out a temporary replacement for the first one... but fabrication is not my forte :smash:.

[Automoda]

http://herb.linkrealms.com/brackets.jpg

 

Here is an early version of the brackets I'm using now sitting next to a stock part. I welded some bar stock that I had heated with a torch and curved around the perimeter. I stuck it to the original bracket instead of custom metal like my current build (Since I needed to relocate the fender a little). I'm pretty sure this is bullet proof though. Not sure about the threaded socket. That could get cracks around where it is mounted. My new ones have very nice welds holding it in so its not a problem.

 

I think this is a case where Birkin sought to follow in the steps of Chapman and add lightness. But there is just too much abuse on the metal for the amount of lightness Birkin went for. I've thought that the ideal would be a CNC cut piece of hard aluminum. Someone with connections and skills with CNC could make... dollars. Entire dollars producing these!

Edited August 12, 2013 by Automoda

[xcarguy]

Here is an early version of the brackets I'm using now sitting next to a stock part . . . Entire dollars producing these!

 

Okay . . . so, ahh . . . explain the bird. :jester:

[wemtd]

Don't ask, I think it could be related to John Cleese's penguin

Edited August 12, 2013 by wemtd

[Kitcat]

It does look a lot like a Nowegian Blue Parrot:). I wonder if has expired, passed on....

[Automoda]

His name is Crayola and he's a Caique. Thats pronounced "Kai-eek". The Nazis tried to wipe them out so they're somewhat rare today. There are several slight variations, two of which have been imported to the USA. The white-bellied Caique doesnt have the black cap and has a bone colored beak and legs. This is the black headed or "Orthodox" Caique. In Brazil there is one more type that has green pantaloons and a yellow tail instead of orange pantaloons and a green tail. They're very smart birds. If you give him coins and a piggy bank, he'll have the coins in the bank within a few minutes.

 

[xcarguy]

His name is Crayola and he's a Caique. Thats pronounced "Kai-eek". The Nazis tried to wipe them out so they're somewhat rare today. There are several slight variations, two of which have been imported to the USA. The white-bellied Caique doesnt have the black cap and has a bone colored beak and legs. This is the black headed or "Orthodox" Caique. In Brazil there is one more type that has green pantaloons and a yellow tail instead of orange pantaloons and a green tail. They're very smart birds. If you give him coins and a piggy bank, he'll have the coins in the bank within a few minutes.

 

Awesome bird . . . ah, Caique. I can certainly see where he gets his name. Some of the 'birds' that manage my 401K could take a few money-management lessons form Crayola. :seeya: