xcarguy Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Manifold Destiny. LOL!!! Sounds like a Red Green Christmas: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yoh1R9Ycp40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 Manifold Destiny. LOL!!! Sounds like a Red Green Christmas: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yoh1R9Ycp40 I love Red Green! One of Canada's finest exports. Right up there alongside Corner Gas. :jester: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Back to the build thread. I plan to do some serious traveling in the funny little basic car, and that means at least *some* minimal storage space. So the glove box got finished today. The scuttle and IP are not in place at the moment, but when closed it completely hides behind the IP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mondo Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Clever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 Here's what it looks like with the grille cut the other way. Of course it's a matter of taste, but I think it looks far better. The 3003 aluminum is going to get powder coated black before reinstallation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 The instrument subpanel is mounted but not yet plumbed or wired. The Mazda has an oil pressure gauge, but it is hooked up to a switch with lots of damping. It's more like a really slow idiot light than a proper gauge. The gauge on the subpanel is a VDO mechanical gauge. The other stuff on the subpanel is the voltmeter, fan ON switch, windshield heat switch, 4-way flasher switch, and of course the 12V power receptacle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 The hose nipple at the top of the radiator stuck out too far and the return air hose interfered with the nose. So I modified a 37 degree flare fitting into a right angle hose barb. Flyin' Miata did this with a store-bought fitting but my lathe is handier out here in the desert. It took me less time to set up my 4-jaw chuck and make the fitting than it would have taken to order one on-line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 The instrument subpanel is . . . . . . . . . awesome! Looking stellar, Dan. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 The WF has the nose bolted to the chassis and the bonnet pinned to the nose. I couldn't figure out how to drill the holes for the nose-bonnet pins. I didn't trust myself to take measurements and drill separately. After some serious head scratching, I realized the nose and bonnet don't actually have to be on the car to do this. So I drilled a pair of holes in my workbench and bolted the nose to that. Then I slipped the bonnet into that and adjusted it with weights and clamps. Crawled underneath and drilled. Easy as Pi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Careful, Dan. That looks a lot like a Stalker hood. :ack: Next thing you know, you will be shoehorning in an LS engine. I dare say that you are going to have one of the finest WF builds around. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Keep it coming! :lurk: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted June 20, 2014 Author Share Posted June 20, 2014 Careful, Dan. That looks a lot like a Stalker hood. :ack: Next thing you know, you will be shoehorning in an LS engine. I dare say that you are going to have one of the finest WF builds around. :cheers: Well, heck. I thought WF and Brunton differed in headlights with Brunton having those small diameter lights faired into the body. But due to your comment I looked deeper. It seems the Classic R has the same headlights as my WF. Now I need to find some other identifying feature. PS: Howcome the emoticon list doesn't include a Boeing Salute? (palm up shrug) When I worked for Boeing everybody seemed to pick it up without being told. PPS: I'm at home not working on my car at 6PM because it's 107F in my hangar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Well, heck. I thought WF and Brunton differed in headlights with Brunton having those small diameter lights faired into the body. But due to your comment I looked deeper. It seems the Classic R has the same headlights as my WF. Now I need to find some other identifying feature. . . . . your dash; definitely unique. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 I noticed the left side turn signal looked like it was angled up. So I put the protractor level on it and that indicated 4 degrees off horizontal. The right side said less than 1 degree. I took the assembly off and did some sanding and filing. It's amazing how much time stuff like this takes. The lamp assembly comes separate from the black plastic horn and WF did not supply the screws. No problem, I have lots of miscellaneous screws. I chose some wood screws as there was no thread. Dang, the first one broke the plastic. So I epoxied it back on and drilled and tapped 4mm threads. There's that time factor again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 (edited) Today saw the 'trunk' and rollbar mostly installed. The box is smaller than standard because I got the optional 11 gallon gas tank. Normal is 7.5 gal and I plan to do some serious traveling. The roll bar is one step above WF's default and I highly recommend it. It's called the RAC roll bar because it passes scrutiny by that race sanctioning body. The rear support members unfortunately pass through the sides of the box, but WF thoughtfully included cut lines in the gel coat. Now I have to figure out how to make a lid. WF offers one but it is not compatible with the RAC roll bar. PS the car is red. It's the argument between the fluorescent lights and the digital camera that add the orange areas. Edited June 22, 2014 by NVP66S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCh Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 You can modify the factory boot lid to work with the RAC roll bar. Cut the lid into 3 sections, and make cutouts in the outer 2 to allow the rear stays to pass through. Attach those to the lid's base frame with silicone. Put the hinges and locks on the center section and you're all set. There is also a lot more storage space available in the boot area if you fabricate one out of aluminum rather than use the factory item. Because the factory piece drops in place and the tub flares out, it misses a lot of available space. There are photos and write-ups on both of these on this page of my website. If you decide to pursue either approach and have questions, just shoot me a PM. BTW I'm really enjoying following your build -John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mondo Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 Great work... surprised you didn't just go for some motorcycle flush turn signals... something like these: https://www.denniskirk.com/21463.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=COCu4Y-6jr8CFZJbfgod9QcA1Q Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Great work... surprised you didn't just go for some motorcycle flush turn signals... something like these: https://www.denniskirk.com/21463.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=COCu4Y-6jr8CFZJbfgod9QcA1Q Hmmm. I kinda like those. If the WF lights give me any more trouble I may switch to those. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 You can modify the factory boot lid to work with the RAC roll bar. Cut the lid into 3 sections, and make cutouts in the outer 2 to allow the rear stays to pass through. Attach those to the lid's base frame with silicone. Put the hinges and locks on the center section and you're all set. There is also a lot more storage space available in the boot area if you fabricate one out of aluminum rather than use the factory item. Because the factory piece drops in place and the tub flares out, it misses a lot of available space. -John Thanks for the info and I really like what you did there, but right now I'm getting tired of building. I just wanna get it on the road. This car is getting a bump in trunk volume, but it will take the form of a wicker basket aft of the spare tire and above the license plate. That should be easy to implement. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCh Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 but right now I'm getting tired of building. I just wanna get it on the road. I think most of us here can empathize with that statement -John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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