Paul Hill Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Would you consider grinding 1 flat of the bolt head just enough for insertion clearance? Probably wouldn't take a lot..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 Would you consider grinding 1 flat of the bolt head just enough for insertion clearance? Probably wouldn't take a lot..... I considered it, but I think if I'm going to modify the bolt, I'll just trim the threads, which looks like what I'll have to do to all three of them since I was unable to find an M12 bolt 40mm with enough grip length (15mm-20mm). I've got some thin AN washers, so I'm not worried about running out of threads for the nylock nut after I trim the bolt. The trick will be getting the three bolts the same length. It'll just take a bit longer to cut, grind, file, dress the threads, and measure the length to get them as close as possible to each other. If only someone made metric bolts with a selectable grip length like AN bolts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 I would avoid all that trouble and just get metric allen socket cap screws. Any good industrial supplier in your area will carry the correct lenght/Dia. Dave W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 I would avoid all that trouble and just get metric allen socket cap screws. Any good industrial supplier in your area will carry the correct lenght/Dia. Dave W Thank you for the suggestion. Even though an M12 socket head is only 18mm in diameter vs the 19mm width of an M12 hex head, I don't think the extra 0.5mm on one side will clear the u-joint. But, even if that worked, it's still a question of grip length. All the grip lengths I've found for the socket heads, either locally or online, are too short by a considerable amount. In the 40-50mm length range, most socket heads are fully threaded, for whatever reason. And of the ones which are partially threaded, the grip length is always 10mm or less, which is too short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hill Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Bingo Dave W! That was my next suggestion but you were quicker responding. Great minds think alike? ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Brit, More food for thought. While this is an apples and oranges comparison, I’ve had two specialty cars where I used Ford rear carriers on each. I also used a Ford Mustang 5.0 driveshaft flange yoke along with factory Ford mounting bolts (see photos below). The bolts do not have a grip length (grip length not needed in the application as would be the case such as a pivot point, like an A-arm for example). Here’s the thought, do you need grip length in the bolt at all? If not, this would open avenues for replacing the existing bolts with something shorter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 This comes to mind. All thread rod, washers(optional), hex nuts drilled for safety wire and safety wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 Thx, Shane & coffee break. I'm definitely not a mechanical engineer by any stretch, but it seems like these driveshaft bolts are primarily loaded in single shear when the car is moving, and with only 3 bolts holding the system together, I'd like to err on the conservative side and have as much surface area as possible in the shear plane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 These should not be in sheer. The two parts should be locked together like a clamp. No movement and no sheer on the bolt unless something is loose and then you do have a problem and a grip length wont matter . This same topic comes up on wheel spacers.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 These should not be in sheer. The two parts should be locked together like a clamp. No movement and no sheer on the bolt unless something is loose and then you do have a problem and a grip length wont matter . This same topic comes up on wheel spacers.... Hmm, interesting. I didn't think friction from the clamping force would handle the worst-case loading. Kind of flying blind here...I suppose one approach would be to just not worry about the grip length and check the bolts a few times during the year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Hmm, interesting. I didn't think friction from the clamping force would handle the worst-case loading. Kind of flying blind here...I suppose one approach would be to just not worry about the grip length and check the bolts a few times during the year. Unless the bolts were a light press fit in both mating parts, they can't be used in sheer. Otherwise you have movement between the two pieces and going from reverse to forward and jerks etc would wear the bolts out or break them. If you think about it, there is a little slop in there no matter what and the only way for all the bolts to touch all the sides of the holes is to twist the two parts very hard opposite of each other and tighten them. Of course going in reverse would negate that sheer as well So, my thought is that fully threaded or not will not matter much other than the non threaded part of a bolt is stronger. Your relying on the clamping force and the bolt being in sheer will only come into play if things come loose. Something else you can utilize is that you can buy a bolt that is not threaded far enough for you and sometimes if the diameter of the non threaded part is correct, you can run a die up the bolt and make more threads. Just throwing out some ideas. I am hoping mine is just welded different than yours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 Finally got my water pump welded earlier this week, and I also took my radiator to the welder to add a mounting tab on the bottom since my radiator requires that the bottom tips outward a bit. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27827&g2_serialNumber=4 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27829&g2_serialNumber=3 Here's the little right angle bracket (well, more like 80 degrees) I made for the bottom radiator mount, installed with some rubber washers: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27843&g2_serialNumber=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 Oh, and I can now sleep soundly with my driveshaft bolts trimmed to size http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27833&g2_serialNumber=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 Received my new shifter this week. It's from Sikky Manufacturing, and even though it's not listed on their website, they have them in stock & ready to ship. You just send them an email and ask for the T56 Magnum shifter. It moves the shifter position backwards exactly 4". With a custom quote, they can potentially move it further back, but you'd pay a handsome price for that. It's a little taller than I prefer, but beggars can't be choosers. Plus, if it really bothers me later on, I might take it to a shop to have it shortened. It's threaded M10-1.25 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27853&g2_serialNumber=4 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27855&g2_serialNumber=3 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27865&g2_serialNumber=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 Finally was able to install my Canton Racing post-pump/pre-regulator fuel filter. I can't tell you how many hours I agonized over its placement. Where it ended up seemed to be the best compromise between access/serviceability, hose routing, and avoidance of any rotating components. It's such a relief to be done with fuel system component placement since it enables me to pick my hose end angles & hose lengths. At the lower right, you can see the pump's outlet peeking out from under the CV joint boot. The object at the top left is the regulator & bracket. The filter clamp mount is attached to the frame with rubber washers. Both bolts are 1/4"; the top one goes all the way through the frame with a nut attached, and the bottom one is tapped 1/4-fine since a through-hole wasn't possible due to the control arm bracket on the opposite side: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27869&g2_serialNumber=5 View from the cockpit looking backwards at the same assembly: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27871&g2_serialNumber=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Brit, Looks good. If for some reason the 1/4 fine tapped hole ever strips (shouldn't with the other bolt being a solid through-mount), you can use a rivet nut from MC. I've used these with great success (several on #85): http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=uf461p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Brit, I meant to comment on your shifter. If Scott and Glen aren't aware that the shifter is available, you may want to share. This may be another 'gold brick in the back yard' moment for new builders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 I keep forgetting about rivet nuts, thx for the reminder. What material do you like to use? Are the steel inserts to difficult to use? What's your tool of choice for getting them seated? On the Sikky shifter, I mentioned it to Scott a couple of weeks ago, but he's also working on his own version. I didn't want to wait for it or be a guinea pig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 This week, I won't be able to do any work on the car due to some work travel - boooo. I was able to get a couple smaller items done yesterday, however. Because the Mark Scott radiator has no place for a cap, the Brunton shopping list calls for a separate tank with cap fitting, Howe Racing 3424. I still haven't figured out how Brunton has mounted the tank in their sample pictures, but it looks like they welded a bracket on the bottom. My welder who did my water pump was uncomfortable with the idea of welding a bracket; he thought there was too high a risk of fatigue cracking. So, I looked at another approach: Also on the shopping list is a coolant overflow tank, Moroso 63657, and a 3" strap clamp mount, Moroso 63401. The mount also happens to fit the surge tank pretty well, so that's what I started with. I put an M10-1.5 bolt in the bottom hole which attaches directly to the cylinder head. It actually holds the bracket pretty well, but the top is still a little floppy. For the top hole of the mount, I grabbed some scrap aluminum and formed it to shape, using a nearby bolt as the mounting point. I'll eventually get some new aluminum flat bar and will make a finished bracket. I was pretty proud of myself for this one since it took all of 30 minutes to put together. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27873&g2_serialNumber=2 Back to the Fuel System...For my fuel level sender, I chose a solid state capacitive sensor from a company called Centroid, centroidproducts dot com. Speedhut is one of their distributors and the sensor carries the Speedhut p/n G-SNDR-12. In the configuration that Speedhut carries, it's a standard 33/240 ohms like many other fuel level senders. The idea is you apply 12V & Ground to the sender, and it spits back a resistance value that you connect to your gauge. It comes in a few different lengths that you can select on the Speedhut site. The unit self-calibrates on the first full fill-up. It uses a standard SAE bolt pattern like other senders and comes with a cork gasket, about 1/8" thick. As it turns out, Centroid can accommodate some customizations, which in my case, I shipped the unit back to Centroid, they reprogrammed it so that it provides a voltage level instead of resistance value, which simplifies how I will connect the sender to my dash setup (not using standard gauges) If you need to cut the unit to length, it's easy to do, as long as you do it before the unit has auto-calibrated. I cut off about 1/4" from the bottom. The unit has two aluminum rods. The outer rod can be cut with a tubing cutter. The inner rod with a hacksaw or snips; it doesn't matter if the inner rod gets pinched: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27757&g2_serialNumber=3 Drilling holes with the shop-vac sucking up the shavings. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27755&g2_serialNumber=4 Installed. Unseen is the gasket goo on both sides of the cork gasket and inside the mounting holes of the unit. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27877&g2_serialNumber=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 I keep forgetting about rivet nuts, thx for the reminder. What material do you like to use? Are the steel inserts to difficult to use? What's your tool of choice for getting them seated? On the Sikky shifter, I mentioned it to Scott a couple of weeks ago, but he's also working on his own version. I didn't want to wait for it or be a guinea pig I'm all about using steel simply because it doesn't strip/gall like aluminum and has better overall grip once installed. Two part numbers for ¼" are: http://www.mcmaster.com/#90720A450 and http://www.mcmaster.com/#90720A460 The tool of choice is: http://www.mcmaster.com/#95603A770 The tool isn’t cheap, but one of the best I’ve found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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