11Budlite Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 (edited) When we were taking the driveshaft loose, we noticed all the bolts were not tight. They would turn if you didn't restrain the nut. I'm going to replace them, they are .375-24 x 1.00. Are they grade 5 or 8? Those in your photo should be grade 5. If you look at the threads near the head of your bolts you can see how the thread is damaged. This was probably caused by running with the bolts not torqued correctly but I still like to use a bolt with a shank long enough to extend through both flanges. The originals bolts on my '64 MGB have a solid shank that extends through both flanges. You can get these bolts at aircraft supply stores or here: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=AN6 Edited September 26, 2014 by 11Budlite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 While I have the motor out I am refreshing some gaskets. I have the oil pan off and found some interesting marks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Then, I found something else... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Aluminum, steel, other? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 I'm guessing this engine threw a rod and/or broke a piston and someone didn't get all the chunks out of the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Aluminum, steel, other? Aluminum :puke: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 coffee, While you have the oil pan off, can you visually inspect the underside of the psitons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 coffee, While you have the oil pan off, can you visually inspect the underside of the psitons? Sure, what kind of stuff should I be looking for? :bigear: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Well, since the metal is aluminum and was found in the oil pan, look for a broken piston skirt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Coffee, Look at the photo about half way down the thread in this link: http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?549900-Pulled-oil-pan-and-found-broken-piston-skirt-on-4-0-I6-Do-I-have-to-pull-the-head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 Well, since the metal is aluminum and was found in the oil pan, look for a broken piston skirt. I'm sure it's from a broken piston. I understand the motor was rebuilt before it was sold here http://www.classiccarsltd.com/modules/auto/detail.php?id=388 This page was longer at one time and indicated the motor was rebuild. I'm guessing the piece I found wasn't found when the motor was repaired. I don't recall seeing any jagged edges on any piston, but I'll take a closer look. The chunk looks to have been pounded around some by the smother surfaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 What are the pro's and con's of using these gasket sealers? I'm doing the oil pan and using the rubber end seals and thinking about taking a look at the cam chain. So the water pump would also come off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDingo8MyBaby Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Rubber end seals are the best way to go, just make sure their sized properly for the grooves they rest in. I've had really good luck with "the right stuff" by permatex on the oil pan gaskets. Make sure you also apply sealant where the rubber meets the cork. I've also had really good luck using studs near the end seals to hold the gasket in place while bolting it all up. It would be a false economy not to replace the timing chain wear pad while you're in there too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 (edited) I use the Permatex Ultra Gray sealant. Same stuff Mazda uses from the factory. Only downside it that it is a bitch to break the seal and clean up the surfaces for the next time around. I'd suggest replacing the water pump as long as you are in there. Edited October 1, 2014 by scannon Changed Super Gray to Ultra Gray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 What are the pro's and con's of using these gasket sealers? I'm doing the oil pan and using the rubber end seals and thinking about taking a look at the cam chain. So the water pump would also come off. coffee, Visit the Permatex web site for product selection: http://www.permatex.com/products/product-selector FWIW, I've had excellent results with Permatex Ultra Grey: http://www.permatex.com/products/our-brands/ultra-series Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted November 25, 2014 Author Share Posted November 25, 2014 At last, I have all the parts in my shop. I picked up the transmission today. Syncros were impossible to find and they were not the problem. It was a needle bearing between the input shaft and the main shaft that misbehaved. My guess was this was caused by low oil level. I have a new clutch disk, motor mounts, bolts and lock nuts for the drive shaft, and new red silicone hoses, also lower gaskets have been refreshed, it's time to reassemble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 With (more than) a little help from a friend the engine and transmission are back in the car. Since I replaced the pan gasket, the motor is completely empty of oil. I was thinking about filling the oil filter before installing it. I am planning on running the starter some before connecting the ignition. 10 seconds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hill Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Best to turn it over til you get oil pressure showing on the gauge before you add fire. Push it, roll it down the drive if you have to, but even on the starter motor it shouldn't take long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hill Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 And yes, filling the filter is ALWAYS a good idea any time it is replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDingo8MyBaby Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 How is it any different than any other oil chance that you do? Other than you probably need to add an extra 1/2 quart or so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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