JohnCh

It is tapped. That is the access to the finger filter below the pump and can also be used to drain the sump. However, the port in that location on the dry sump pan is the input from the oil cooler and the extraction back to the tank is the port behind it. To use that pan you would still need to add an extra port and as @wdb indicates, you would need to reconfigure the pump to make it all work. Here are photos of the inside of both sumps that have been oriented the same way with the oil pump pickup in the upper right-hand corner (I don't have a good photo of my wet sump and am using a low-res version from Raceline's website.) As you can see from the configuration, there is a lot more to a dry sump pan. Bottom line, that wet sump was not intended to be used for either configuration.

Is there such a thing? The Raceline/Caterham wet sump certainly isn't set up that way. A key factor in a dry sump is that no oil is stored below the crank, hence the word "dry". A Wet sump is much deeper and stores the oil reserve, hence "wet." That sump also has no provisions for the hoses to and from the external tank. The finger filer on both the Raceline wet and dry sump is positioned directly below the oil pump and screens larger particles from entering and destroying it. The Raceline/Caterham dry sump uses only this one pump. 6.5 liters sounds like a lot of oil for that sump. Raceline recommends 5 Liters upon first fill and 4.5 - 4.75 liters on oil changes. They also recommend marking the dipstick upon first fill of 5 liters to calibrate it. I'm assuming (I know, I know) that Caterham provides a calibrated dipstick on a new car, but there is the possibility that your dipstick was replaced at some point with the Ford item, or perhaps it's not seating properly in the tube.

Yes, current Caterhams use a 50.8mm PCD.

I think the "m" word you were looking for is masochist

I finally got around to addressing a couple of issues lingering from the build that required scuttle removal. First was installing the remote button interface for the AiM which includes a shortcut to reset the trip odometer with a single push of a dedicated momentary switch. Without this, resetting involves no fewer than four buttons on the sides of the AiM and a total of eight button pushes: six to reset the odometer, and two to return to the gauges screen. My stops for fuel will now be seven button pushes quicker. The other issue was heated seats that have never worked. Each seat has a dedicated relay controlled by an On-Off-On switch. A master relay controlled by the ECU, then feeds power to both seat relays but only while the engine is running. Caterham told me they do this to prevent someone unintentionally draining the battery while parked. Their instructions were to assign Pin 25 to Shift Light 2, then have it switch on (connect to ground) when the engine is over 800rpm and off when revs fall below 750rpm. Simple. SBD opted to configure this slightly differently on my custom map, assigning Pin 25 to Shift Light (not SL2) and setting the on/off rpm to 800/500. When troubleshooting, my initial assumption was that something in the wiring was wonky. However, there is continuity from Pin 25 to the coil on the master relay and shorting that wire to ground triggers the relay and allows the seats to work. Hmm... Checking the map showed that Pin 25 was assigned to Shift Light and Shift Light set to go on/off at the revised rpm points. I didn't see anything else to tweak, but did contact SBD and sent them screenshots of the relevant screens to ask. With the holidays, however, I don't expect to hear back soon and opted to go a different direction. Given I can't imagine a scenario where I will sit in the car with the key at position 2, the engine off, and the seats on, I decided to simplify and bypass the master relay with a jumper wire. The photo below shows the backs of the three relay sockets bolted to the fire wall, with the master relay in the middle. The jumper connects pins 30 and 87. Now the seats work perfectly.

Thanks for starting the thread. I'm looking forward to following your progress!

"No engine. Pink slip in hand. As is condition. Need restoration." Master of the Understatement?

Looking forward to seeing the progress! Do you have an idea of when the kit will leave the UK? BTW EVO recently did short review of the GBS. It sounds like a lot of car for the money. https://www.evo.co.uk/track-cars/207390/gbs-zero-review-a-convincing-caterham-alternative

The fourth wire is probably for the light. I forgot about that earlier: ground, signal, 12v+ gauge, 12v+ light when side/headlights are on (probably white/red). Is one of the wires green/black? According to my notes, that is the signal wire. As for what you should see at the gauge end, it should be the same ohms reading you took off the sender, but it might require the ignition on to register. I repurposed the signal wire for my setup, but it is a voltage based (0-5v) sender. That signal was not changed along the way. This tells me there isn't any Caterham magic happening between the sender and gauge, but @CatManDo could confirm based on the work he and Bruce did for the fuel gauge fix.

Hi @Randy Flowers, I'm sorry to hear you need to sell your car. This thread asking for advice on how to do so is fine; however, only paid club members may post an ad on the site. A post like this that includes a number of photos of the car strays too close into ad territory, so I have deleted them. As I've explained here many times in the past, allowing people to do end arounds -- even if that is not the intent -- isn't fair to the other individuals who join specifically so they can sell their car. -John

One thing I discovered after removing the sump to reseal a leak is that a fair amount of oil is left over when draining via the ports. I switched to an oil extraction pump which does a better job of removing all the oil. You definitely have a wet sump. The dry sump pan is quite different, and as you note, it would need a separate tank. The initial listing for your car also mentioned it had a catalytic converter, but the pictures show it is fitted with the cat-bypass pipe. I suspect the previous owner didn't really know very much about these cars. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on the forum; don't hesitate to ask questions as you begin to learn your car. In return, you do need to post photos of the car with the under-body LEDs illuminated. I have never heard of those before on any type of se7en

I have this sump on the Westfield. I have always used the blue plug as that is what Raceline told me to use when I bought it years ago, but I've seen comments that Caterham recommends the smaller plug on the other side. I've never bothered to measure which port is lower, but it might be worth checking on your car. Is this the car that was on Bring a Trailer a couple of times this Fall? If so, I called him out on his dry sump claim in the initial listing, which he ignored.

My shop is 1260 sq.ft with ceilings just shy of 9-1/2 ft. No complaints with my ceiling mounted Fahrenheat 5000W heater (FUH54C). It's rated for a much smaller space, but it still has no trouble getting the interior to comfortable working temps (~60F) in freezing weather.

Now that we are entering upgrade and maintenance season, what do people have planned? There is nothing significant happening in my garage. I hope to finish up a few things from my Caterham build that require scuttle removal: diagnosing heated seats that never worked, modifying and reprinting the back of the AiM mount so I can affix the remote button loom, finally wiring up the short-cut button for the trip odometer reset, and installing the windscreen quick change retaining channels. For the Westfield, it's just general maintenance and deciding what to do with the car. It's not logical to keep it, but there is a strong emotional attachment, and I hate to see it go. So that's my short list for the se7ens. What's yours? -John

Thanks @Saudio, I've restored the images in your initial post. When you are ready to list it, please create an ad in the cars for sale forum.

Note: the pictures were removed as that addition steered this thread too far into ad territory even if that was not the intent. It's not fair to those who join as paid club members to sell their cars. Conversation around the sales strategy is fine, but please stay away from specifics about this car or the sales price.

I believe that gauge has three wires at the plug: signal, 12v+, and ground. If that's the case, I'd make sure the ground and power are working and that there is continuity to the green/black wire at the sender plug. I have seen a bad oil pressure gauge on a new kit, so don't assume it's not the gauge. Have you asked Bruce if he has one you could swap in as a test?

Work got in the way, and I accidentally hit submit before I had finished my post above or corrected a confusing portion When I wrote "back probe the plug", that was poor word choice on my part. Pull the plug off the fuel assembly and put the multimeter on those two inner prongs on the male end of the plug. I just tested the one I removed from my car and it ranges from 53 ohms empty to 462 ohms full. Keep in mind that's the range in bench testing, not the range it can reach in the confines of the tank. If you do need to pull the fuel assembly out of the tank for further checking, I can recommend this removal tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079GPYA4/ Let me know if you need me to take any other measurements. -John

You could back probe the plug on the top of the fuel assembly. The two thinner inner wires are for the sender (the thicker outer wires are for the pump): Green/black handles the signal and black is ground.

@Donnie, I suspect you may have SV seats which are a little wider than the S3 seats. It might be helpful to post some width measurements and hopefully someone with those seats in either an S3 or SV can confirm which you are selling.

We have a 3D printing forum with a grand total of three threads. https://usa7s.net/ips/forum/43-3d-printing/ If people want to start posting their designs there, I'm happy to create a section in the library and start moving them over once we get critical mass, but I don't want to create a new section to hold just two or three designs. As for file type, it's not an issue for downloads. STL is the standard for 3D printing, but the common slicers can also use STEP files which store more data and are better for things other than 3D printing.

Logs show a notification for my message above appeared in your notification list. If they stop showing up again, send me a PM and I will investigate further.

According to the admin panel, you don't have email notifications turned on, just the notification list (bell at the top of the screen). See the help guide below on changing those settings. Also, it's a good idea to check the email address you have associated with your account to confirm it's still current (https://usa7s.net/ips/settings/). If you are receiving notification list reminders for everything except your own threads, let me know and I'll do a forced reset from the admin panel.

This will keep you busy In my opinion, the LSD is well worth it. Adding one to the Westfield years ago was transformative. The car became so much easier to steer with the throttle and really ratcheted up the fun-to-drive factor. As for the Elan, yes get that in a better state and drive it! It's a great complement to the Seven, although my rust fears prevent me from driving it in the wet despite the vastly superior weather protection of the FHC design.

We had a couple of threads on this same announcement, so I merged them together to keep the conversation in one place.