JohnCh

I can tell you're not a wine snob. They wouldn't let glasses of red and white get that close together. It would feel too much like a virtual Rose. Now Croc on the other hand...

As I recall your car has a battery master switch on the side. If no electrical items (e.g. horn, hazards) are working, and you've confirmed your battery is putting out over 12v, then I'd start there given it controls the entire electrical system. You may have inadvertently jostled the switch while doing the other work, and it's no longer on. It's also possible the contacts failed after the key was left in position 2 for a long time, or that it was installed with an inline fuse that's blown. Easy things to test are: Turn the switch on and off a few times, then try starting the car again or check the horn or hazards. If still no luck, then With the switch on, check voltage between the battery and each of the main connections at the back of the switch (should be two studs with thick cables attached). If the voltage at each connection is essentially the same as what you measured across your battery earlier, then the switch is likely fine. But if there is a large difference in the readings, then you've found the issue. If they are different, please report back with the voltage measured across battery terminals, and the voltage measured at each of the two connections at the back of the switch. This will help narrow down if it's the switch itself or the leads between the switch and the battery.

Sorry, this is more of an accessible beer site than a snobby wine site.

Due to a proliferation of scammers registering on the site then sending PMs to other members in an attempt to scam them as outlined in this thread, the PM feature has been disabled for all individuals in the New User group. Previously, they were limited to one PM/day to minimize their reach, but more extreme measures are now required. New Users will continue to have their posts moderated until we are confident they are not here simply to take advantage of the community. If you are in the New User group and have an issue using the site that isn't addressed in the Help Guides, please either start a thread in the Issues & Help forum or use the Contact Us link located at the bottom of each page.

The correct measuring position for the front is the rearward A-am bolt, not the forward bolt. Also, I haven't seen any mention of setting the ride height with fuel and driver's weight in the car. If this was not done, your rear ride heights and rake will be far off. Regarding measured ride heights, keep in mind that people running the 13" wheels will have a different optimal front height due to the smaller tire diameter lowering that number when the A-arm angle is optimal. I have been advised by someone who sets up a lot of Caterhams that he finds a 2 deg downward rake on the lower front A-arm works best. Of course, if that results in too low a ride height for your road conditions, then adjust upwards and maintain that 15mm rake. From the 2015 build manual, when Caterham still used words rather than oversimplified IKEA diagrams: 5.9) Cars fitted with adjustable damper platform Cars fitted with adjustable damper platforms need to be adjusted to achieve the optimum ride height. This is done by lowering or raising the height of the platforms on the threaded sleeve. It is essential that this task is carried out on level ground. NOTE Lowering the platforms will decrease ride height, and raising the platforms will increase ride height. For the best results the ride height should be set with the driver in the car and fuel in the tank. 1. Start by adjusting the front dampers to achieve a minimum distance of 150 mm (this can be increased for road use to a maximum of 190 mm) between the ground and the bottom of the lower chassis rail, where the rear leg of the front lower wishbone exits the side of the car. This measurement should be the same on both sides with the car loaded. 2. Now adjust the rear dampers in the same manner to achieve a height 15 mm higher than the front, measured to the underside of the lower chassis rail immediately in front of the 'A' frame mounting point. NOTE Adjusting the rear may have an effect on the front therefore it is good practice to check between front and rear several times during adjustment 3. Once the desired ride heights have been set ensure that the platforms are locked together to avoid movement.

FYI the original poster attempted to scam several people here and his multiple accounts have been banned.

There's no back story, because it's not true I suspect they meant BlatChat.

I installed the Walbro GSS342.

Thanks. I was in a hurry and didn't pay attention to my typing. Fixed!

I'm happy to discuss this via PM but let's not take this thread off-topic as well. Just to clarify—moving posts here isn’t meant as a reprimand, but simply to keep each thread focused and in the right forum.

This was a valuable thread until people started throwing politics and snarky comments into the mix. I have split the thread, placing those posts where they belong: in the Politics, Religion, and Controversy forum. If you want to continue that discussion, great; do so there. Not here. Anyone who can't follow those simple instructions, which still allow for free speech, and give you the ability to embarrass yourself, will lose posting privileges for 30 days.

It would be good to hear from others who have ordered a T-shirt. Was the size within the normal range for your other T-shirts, or did you feel the neck was much tighter than expected? There are only a handful of people who have ordered a Navy (not True Navy) T-shirt. If any of you read this, will you please let me know if you had a similar reaction to the color as @straightcut? If this is common, I can add a disclaimer to the merchandise site. @straightcut, I'll send you a PM later today. Thanks, John

I tracked down Tigger. The site is gone, but he did give permission for us to add his annotated build guide to the Library. I've updated the link in the first post accordingly:

I don’t publish any of my designs publicly. I may eventually turn them into a hobby business, and I want to avoid undermining that by effectively assigning a $0 value to the IP and R&D time I’ve invested. As for that specific design, I carefully sized the cavities to fit the magnets I had on hand, ensuring they wouldn’t rattle or interfere with the printer head. I’d need to spend time digging receipts to figure out exactly which magnets I used and whether they’re still available.

I now have an email alert that notifies me within minutes if the site stops responding. That lets me start troubleshooting right away and open a support ticket if it’s not something obviously within my control. Although it speeds up resolution, it’s still frustrating to burn 30 minutes in the evening—and then have to check email a few times overnight in case Tier 2 support needs more information. Does anyone want to volunteer to take over? I'm more than happy to step aside

Apologies for the outage last night that began at 9:40pm PT. The hosting company rolled out a minor update to the log reader for their security suite, and for reasons they don't understand, it impacted our server. It's now resolved after a reboot. -John

That looks much closer to the denim color available for the Mantra T-shirt. Regardless, it's not even close to what you ordered; they shouldn't have any issues with a return. Please let me know what happens.

Take a picture and send it in with that explanation. I'd also double check the product dimensions to make sure that matches. I see they have a +/- 2" disclaimer at the bottom, so keep in mind when measuring.

@straightcut, I haven't heard this from anyone else, and it doesn't match the shirts I've ordered. For the size, please compare your shirt to this size guide from the order page. Regarding color, there is Navy and True Navy with the latter a lighter, more distressed color, but certainly not gray. The photos below match the colors I received. If either the size or colors don't match the descriptions, then contact them as per their Return & FAQ page and supply the relevant photos. Unfortunately, I have no control over returns, but they responded quickly to someone who received the wrong product. Navy True Navy

I haven't had a creep issue on any of the parts -- supposedly the CF addition helps -- but if I do, I'll reprint in PET-CF. I'll send you a PM re: files.

@Austin David Initial speculation was that the two 90 deg fittings between the pump and Hydramat were too restrictive and causing the issue. That drove the V2 design with a smaller matt attached to the bottom of the pump. Once the true cause was discovered and the pump was replaced with a positive displacement unit, I reverted back to V1 which is shown below. The fuel level sensor is missing in the first two photos but fills the hole in the top. I have over 3000 miles on the car, and other than those initial foibles stemming from the use of a standard pump, there have been no issues. Although I can send you the STL, unless you are doing this exactly the same, including changing to a return style system with AN -6 hoses and using that same sensor, it won't work. The design is really simple. Just mirror the dimensions of the stock lid. The fiddly aspect is placing the holes for the inlet and outlet hose ends, the fuel level sensor, fuel pump terminals, and the mounting holes for the pump bracket. Space is a little tight and you need to ensure that placement of the various parts doesn't interfere with mounting/unmounting. The Hydramat fits between the baffle and the pump. The opening in the baffle you referenced — at least on my car — is placed on the tank floor, but a few inches up from the front of the tank, meaning if placed there it won't get to all the fuel thanks to the steeply sloped floor. By reverting to my V1 design, the Hydramat is located on the floor where it meets that bulkhead and can access all the fuel on that side of the baffle. It may miss a liter or two in some situations, but that's a far cry from the factory design which appears to miss about six liters. If you are going to this trouble, I suggest adding a fuel filter. Although I've never heard about problems arising from Caterham's decision to not use one, it doesn't seem right to me. These photos show the filter mount I made and the location under the aluminum channel that supports the boot floor. I standardized on PA-CF filament for nearly everything on the car, although I experimented with PETG-CF for the fuel cover with success and printed my back up out of that material (I left a piece in a fuel filled jar for a couple of years with no softening.) You don't need the extra heat resistance offered by PA-CF in that area, and PETG has no issue with fuel, and is also easier to print. -John

When Mazda ( @slngsht ) founded this forum, his goal was to create a community for fans and owners of the Lotus 7 and the cars it inspired. It was never about promoting a single marque. That mission remains unchanged. If you'd like to see more Lotus 7 or Locost owners here, spread the word within those communities.

I didn't see the need to announce that it was moved given the links and notifications automatically forward:

The primary purpose of the ASM is to prevent the belts from riding up your abdomen and crushing your organs. The slight rotation you mention allows the pelvis to catch on the lap belt and prevent submarining. It's clearly not the same as 5th and 6th points, but is significantly better than traditional 4-points, and more on par with 3-points. This old video from Schroth illustrates results of various belt designs.