JohnCh

I went through the photos. This car has a lot of things I haven't seen before. What are you plans for it? Do you want something streetable or are you keeping it as a dedicated track car? I've seen double silencers before to meet strict track noise regulations, but I've never seen a setup where the exhaust ends at the rear of the scuttle. I'd think that location would pump exhaust into the cabin. Is this the throttle return spring or just a helper? It looks like the loop at the end is intended to attach to the bolt next to it.

Based on the wiring you inherited with the Caterham, that will come in handy I fixed your upside down image. See this help guide to understand how to fix it yourself and why it happens. Short version is your camera was upside down when you took the photo.

@dvl thanks for starting this thread. It's great timing as I'm just in the beginning stages of rewiring my Elan. Although I'm using the Elan loom from Advance Auto Wire as my starting point (modern GXL wire in traditional British colors, twelve fuses, not two, all relays and fuses in one location, detailed color-coded schematic, etc), the routing and termination methods are on me, and not all are decided yet. I do plan to use Deutsch Connectors as shown in your photos but hadn't considered lacing cord rather than zip ties. Am I correct the benefit to that approach is no sharp edges, and no danger of heat and time embrittling the plastic? Thanks, John

I think there is interest. Beachman Racing organized a short tour for his customers centered out of Suncadia in 2023. Then, last summer, some customers jumped in to help plan a follow-up tour to Walla Walla, which had 9 or 10 cars. My understanding is they want to keep these going, which is great, but I'm not clear on the actual appetite to proactively open it up to all brands. I've heard the organizers aren't opposed to the idea, but the name of the private FB group is PNW Caterham Club, which doesn't exactly sound welcoming to a non-Caterham owner. Personally, I'm more interested in multi-marque se7en tours and get togethers. For me, it doesn't matter if it's a Locost built for the GRM $2000 challenge, a Donkervoort F22, or anything in between (including a real Lotus). I love seeing the different approaches. Hopefully others will chime in with their interest level. BTW moving this to the Pacific forum to aid future discoverability but will leave a forward link in General Discussions for a month.

Have you checked for a resistor pack between the ECU and injectors? It's possible someone added something to compensate for the low impedance.

This is also how Lotus did it in the Elan. It wouldn't surprise me if the parts are the same to save money. There are a few people here with Elans that might be able to take measurements for you. I'm happy to measure mine, but my Elan is a Stromberg car, which may have different dimensions than the DCOE airbox.

We have members who live in the LA area or have friends and family there who are dealing with the ongoing devastation. I've heard from one se7en owner who had a proximity scare and is still under evacuation watch, but I'm sure others are dealing with something similar. One of the great things about the forum is that it's not just a transactional place to ask questions; all of you have helped build this into a true community. If anyone is in the LA area and needs some assistance, or if you are in that area and unaffected and can offer help -- even if it's just safe storage of a se7en -- please chime in. Thanks, John

Without further evidence, I agree. Although Raceline does make a 250hp spec Zetec, it is an expensive build that includes lots of head work, larger valves, forged rods and pistons with very high compression, etc. They aren't very common over here. This doesn't mean it's not that spec, but I'd want some proof. What ECU is in it now? It might also be worth pulling the valve cover to see if there are any markings on the cams. That would give a better idea of what's been done: stock or mild cams, then probably stock internals. Very aggressive cams, then perhaps there is more done inside. Also, if it is an '83, I believe that is still an Ital axle (others will know). As I recall those can't take massive amounts of power, which would mean yours might have been swapped to the English axle or that the engine is not heavily modified. Getting some pics of the diff could help here. Sounds like a fun project!

Ah, the shiny car! The Miata engine with throttle bodies caught my eye. That isn't overly common in Miata circles over here. I'd be curious to find out the ECU brand and who did the tuning. Is a dyno sheet available? Given it's new, it's down to assembly quality. I'd ask for a lot of detailed photos to see if there are any obvious short cuts taken.

@Vovchandr is reasonably correct (note the intentional language so I don't end up a victim in his signature). Barring someone responding that they are in the area and can check it out, sharing some information about the car (brand, year, engine, etc.) could generate a list of specific things to check.

@Frankie are you asking why they were still using that badge on a 2010, or why there have been two 50-year anniversary badges with different starting years? If the latter, the one above was to celebrate the start of the Lotus Seven in 1957. The more recent badge was to celebrate Caterham taking over production in 1973.

A long shot if you strike out here is to post something on https://www.ozclubbies.com.au/ It's a se7en forum based in that part of the world. Someone there may recognize it.

I've never seen the pleated style that covers both carbs, so can't help with a direct replacement. However, if no one recognizes it and you are open to similar filters that use one per carb, both the Dellorto Shop and Redline have some options that should work: https://www.dellortoshop.com/contents/en-us/d107_Airfilters_Shop.htm http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/air_filter_applications_by_carbu.htm Another, albeit more modern looking option, is the ITG JC40/25. It's the same height as your current filter, about 1/2" longer and 1" wider. They also do a sausage version in that size (JC40S/25) and sell blank baseplates that you can drill to fit: https://www.itgairfilters.com/products/jc40-small-twin-carburettor-filter-black-framed

The steering rack will need to be angled up slightly to create clearance between the steering shaft and alternator. Personally, I wouldn't worry about that now and would wait until the engine is in and you're installing the shaft. This way you can optimize the angle. I'm looking forward to following your progress! -John

Looks like that Weebly functionality is no longer working, which explains the lack of unsolicited stock tips over the past year. PM me here and I'll provide a working email address.

@GLBaxter, PM is fine.

@Geowiz did those links get you sorted, or do you need additional input?

I pondered this many years ago but ended up doing a Duratec swap when I rebuilt the car. After speaking with some knowledgeable crossflow tuners in the UK, the consensus was it's a lot of effort and expense for not much return unless the objective is to build a very high horsepower engine (alloy head, bigger valves, very hot cam, high compression forged pistons, etc). I was told the best upgrade was to move to a 3D timing setup which would make big improvements to drivability, mpg, and make a cam hotter than the Kent 234 not an issue for a street car. Of course, sometimes doing things like this are more for the challenge than the ROI. I believe kits are still available from the UK to do the conversion which will be worth investigating, if for no other reason than to understand all the parts required on the engine side. You will also need to convert the chassis. This I have done. It's not hard but there are a number of things to do. Big ticket items are converting the fuel plumbing to account for the high pressure, a return line, fuel filter, and a surge tank or modified fuel tank, and making changes to the electrical system to support the ECU, fuel pump, and various sensors on the engine. As for the ECU, I recommend going with something where they will either supply a crossflow starter map or you can get your hands on one from someone running that same setup. This will make things much faster and easier. Regarding your Webers, what troubles are you trying to overcome? Are these things that can be more easily addressed with a rebuild or jet changes?

Congratulations @mrwierdwrench! I'm looking forward to hearing how things progress.

It sounds more like Hognose than a Cobra. Those snakes also spread their necks when threatened but their venom isn't harmful to humans. I don't think you should call the car a Cobra if it isn't always trying to kill you.

Congrats @mrmustang! As for the weather, as long as it's dry, 39F is plenty warm for short get acquainted drive. Heck, the car even has a top! BTW moving this to the Members Rides forum.

A quick search in the Build forum returns several results that include pictures and advice on how to handle this: https://usa7s.net/ips/search/?q="heater cable"&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=41&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy You will find a number of things in the manual that are wrong or lack significant clarity. If you haven't seen it, there are some good UK build blogs captured in this post and, of course, there are also a number of very good build threads here on the forum.

@Walshy7, hopefully someone will be along soon with measurements of the pedal box, or better yet, have a car you can try on for size. In addition to the size difference, the two chassis do drive a little differently. The SV has a 3" longer wheelbase and is 4" wider. To me, the S3 feels more like a slalom ski that likes short, quick turns, whereas the SV is more like a GS ski that, while still very agile, is not quite as eager (frenetic?), but is more stable in the higher speed stuff. I think part of that is psychological given the S3 feels far more intimate, but the SV's longer wheelbase and wider track do factor in. Neither approach is wrong; it's really down to personal preference. My preference is the S3 but I went with the SV because I wanted the extra room and bigger fuel tank for touring, and I was doing a number of modifications that would benefit from the extra under-bonnet space. As for the weight difference benefitting from extra power, Caterham claims a 55 lb delta. Assuming the power to weight ratio of 420R with a driver, that's only about an 8hp difference. You can pick up more than that by ordering it with roller barrels. I took a couple of measurements of the SV footbox. Not what you asked for, but they might come in handy if someone can provide the S3 dimensions for comparison. I had to use a tape measure to reach down there so these might be off by ~1/8" Width at the brake and clutch pedals (static): 12.75" Width at the throttle stop: 9.25"

As standard, R pack includes the Sadev, and S gets the 5 speed.

I'm in the garage so just took some measurements. Cars were measured with me in the car. Westfield with wet sump: 85mm Caterham with dry sump: 95mm Caterham at bellhousing (lowest point with a dry sump): 75mm On a Caterham with a wet sump the bottom of the sump is level with the bottom of the bellhousing, so I imagine a wet sump version will have about 75mm clearance at my ride height. Both cars are Duratecs and run 13" wheels and both ride heights were optimized for handling at recommended height settings. Other than speedbumps, I've never had an issue, and the Westfield has done over 14k miles of touring across some pretty vile stretches of tarmac in the middle of nowhere.