Dave W

Try contacting Jones Cam Design in Denver NC. Mike Jones @ 704-489-2449

The dashboard is a carryover from coaches, most of the body builders for early cars evolved from horse drawn wooden wagons and coaches.

If the push rod is actually aligned with the pedal ???, a local hardware store would probably have a clevis. That should be a quick and easy fix. Is there enough space on the pedal pivot shaft, that you can add spacers to correct the alignment or improve the alignment?

I believe the real problem is side loading. After repairing the hole, I would replace the connection joint with a Heim joint that is solidly bolted to the pedal.

Don't you love the off camber corner in cold weather with cold tires! Will scare the "S" out of you. Once you lose traction that's it.

If you were pumping oil out, then the pump is probably OK. As MV8 was saying, look at the hoses, and the fittings. If you still cannot find the failure point, remove the oil pressure gauge connection. Attach a barded fitting to the block and apply a short blast of air pressure, to expose the leaking fitting or area. I would not apply constant air pressure.

The diesel oils have the ZDDP for the anti-wear but lack the anti-foam additives needed for the high RPM gasoline engines. I use 3qts of Mobile 1, 5w-30 and 1qt of VR-1 20w-50. I change oil once a season or if I reach 3000 miles along with a new Wix filter.

Check out Champion plugs, [I think their HQ's are in Toledo] they would hand out free copper plug spacers at the tracks. Several sizes and thickness.

Per Chris Rees Magnificent 7, the super 7 1500, had a bell housing that was black and the engine was maroon.

You might be able to get an inspection camera through the clutch release arm hole, but you will still be limited on what you can see. Look for pieces laying in the bell housing or scoring marks on the housing. It sounds more like you have something bent or broken i.e. clutch plate or pressure plate.

Look at the Wix 51516 filter. It has the 2.75 Dia sealing ring and the filter is almost 5" long. I've used this longer filter on my last three Ford trucks.

I would check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. How old is your fuel filter? You could also swap fuel injector location and see if the misfire moves with the injector.

Bill If you have air horns, you may be able to fit the small cone shaped type motorcycle filters. The other option is to look at K&N filters that would fit the opening and make your own base and cap.

To piggy back on fastg, you could take a spin with the hood off, to verify you have enough air flow out of the engine bay. Are you running an under drive pulley? Can you spin the water pump a little higher, i.e. smaller pulley. The oil cooler should help reduce the temp!

Pull or loosen number one plug and turn the engine over by hand. Should be able to hear the air coming out on the compression stroke. Set the crank pulley to the casted timing mark at 12*. Now verify that the rotor arm is pointing at number one on the distributor cap. You may want to mark number one location on the outside of the distributor body first. If the rotor does not align, pull the distributor [re-set] and try again without moving the crank.

Per the wiring diagram the blue wires are for the lites. The horn wire connection near the rad this be green and the wire from the horn to the horn dash button, for grounding, should be black/brown. Like everything on a Seven, the odds of the wiring be unmolested or the correct wiring color code is pretty low.

Here in the frozen north, the Mocal thermo-bypass, reduced the warmup time from 35 min to about 5 when the temps are in the mid 50's range. Before the bypass I used a block off plate, in front of the cooler. The plate also was designed with a hinge that allowed the cooler to have about half the area uncovered, giving you some oil temp adjustment. My engine makes best power with the oil temp at 200F.

It is not a good comparison, because I have a conventional L/S control arm suspension system, that can be easily adjusted. My set up is 1mm toe in, 5.5 degrees of caster, .6" scrub, and my camber has been steadily reduced down to just .5 degrees of negative camber, and 20 PSI in the tires.

Bill A 1/8" toe in should be enough. I would make a trammel bar from wood or tubing. Make a mark for the toe setting on tape apply across the tires, then roll the car back, (180*) and re-check the difference between the toe markings. Did you replace the control arm bushings during the restoration? My guess is that you do not have enough caster, because the bushing(s) have taken a set, [distorted]. Check your front suspension bushings and the location of any spacers. To increase caster you want to move the lower arm forward and the upper arm rearward. You are somewhat limited with the series 2 design and spacers that you can pack. A 1/2 degree increase in my Seven made a world of difference, in self-centering. Also if you have a lot of body rake it can decrease caster or high tire pressure will affect centering.

Only the early Sevens had remote type shift linkage. Your gear box will probably be a gear box from a Cortina, the 116E gearbox superseded the 105E gearbox in the series 2. The stock Ford shift levers where shortened and bent in the Sevens. The car is coming together nicely, looks to be a fun ride.

I found a good supplier for sun visor plastic, “Pop Display” in South Bend, IN. 46614. They can provide material that is excellent for making a see-thru visors. Light Green Acrylic Plexiglas sheet that is 1/8” x 48” x 7 7/8”. Pop Display P/N 2092 for $14.50 plus shipping cost. They will also cut it in half for shipping at no cost. Their phone number is 574-233-1934 or you can contact them at www.go2pop.com . The Plexiglas comes covered on both side which helps prevent scratches while fabricating the visor. When fabricating the visor used the full 7 7/8" width, the short add-on clip type visor, is way to short, to be effective in a Seven. Also with the visor angled upward it helps direct the air over the cabin area.

To coat the inside of my frame tubes, I used Finish Feeder, which is a beeswax and turpentine mixture. I then added 50% boiled linseed oil to the beeswax and turpentine. You will probably need less than a cup to do a complete frame. To apply I just used what looks like a long gun cleaning rod, to run through the tubes. I would coat everything at one time, because the mixture will set-up after about a month.

Try advancing the TPS the slightest amount, also check fuel pressure, may be too low for initial enrichment.

If you are over cooling the oil, google Mocal thermo controlled oil by pass. It does an excellent job and will really shorten warm up time.

Unless there is a vibration issue, I would concentrate on the size and shape that fits your paw. I put a relief in the side for the thumb and a small lip for better grip.