Dave W

I'm using 595's on my Locost, and very pleased with them. The selection of 14" summer tires was pretty limited. The plus for me was that I can get them locally if there is ever a problem, since I do not carry a spare tire. I did have a set of Yokohama's A048, and the federals are much better. I'm running Federal 14" 185-55 @ 19psi. I would also check out Ar1 or NS2R, Nankang if you have a local distributor. They are only slightly higher then the Federals. Dave W

Sorry But I'm having a problem with the .2 volts? Valves typically stick open not closed. When cranking the engine over can you feel if either cable is getting hot. Is there a solid engagement sound from the starter solenoid. Dave W

Time to get the VOM out and check the resistance on both the hot lead and grounding cables to the starter. You do have a grounding cable connected right to the engine? Dave W

Disclaimer, I have never even seen a stalker! But that sounds like way to much difference in preload between RH and LH. When corner weighting my Seven, I was only changing 3 out of the 4 preloads by about 1/4 to 3/8" range with one corner around 1/2". Do you know your corners wts. DaveW

I had the same type of issue with the drivetrain after pulling the engine/trans. One of the mounts ended up being pre-loaded, after re-assembly. Try loosing both engine mounts and trans mount. Then physically move the power train back and forth plus run the engine up and down the rev range. Tighten every thing back down and take a test drive. Dave W

You my be seeing cavitation at higher rev's. If the engine is not over heating, slow down the water pump speed. Dave W

Here some photos of my gas pedal and heel rest. The heel rest is not attached to the floor, but is just wedged into the foot well. I would mock up the heel rest location before fab'ing, because it needs to be located correctly within a 1/2" F/A. The gas pedal has an arched surface with the attaching gusset off centered on the back side, which allows you to flip the pedal to change the cross car location, plus you can use spacer between the pedal arm for added off set. The gusset also has three attaching holes for up/down adjustment. Plus you can pivot the pedal angle. I also have adjustable pedal stops, but they are attached to the frame that sets F/A. The design even has an adjustable cable eye, that allows some lever ratio changes by screw the eye up/down to change the cable travel. The "J" hook on the upper section is for the return spring. Note that my brake pedal is also adjustable, up/down and screws in and out to help position the pedal relative to the gas pedal. Dave W

Probably the easiest solution is to just weld or rivet a arced plate on to the current pedal. If you are good at fabrication, look at re-designing the pedal setup, that would allow you to adjust fore/aft, up/down, pedal angle, and cross car. A heel rest will also help. Last your shoes makes a big difference. I'm big believer of pedal adjustment. All my pedals are adjustable. If you like, I can post a photo of the throttle pedal and heel rest. Dave W

One vote for a loose ball joint. Get the grease gun out and see if greasing changes anything. Another option for the wheel bearing is to used safety wire, Vs a cotter pin. It's less than have the thickness and gives you more leeway on the castle nut position. Dave W

When you are adjusting, Is the wheel off the ground? I adjust the front wheel bearings be feel. After re-greasing and tightening the bearing down, I backed off the nut, then re-tighten the nut until there is a slight drag when you spin the wheel and NO PLAY. I would think you are better off with reduced play. [wheel bearings are cheap] The improvement in steering is worth the price of replacing the bearings after 40-50K miles. DaveW

Search for banjo bolt. Should make life easier. Dave W

Rich mixture indication [one plug]. Options: Add injection cleaner to the system, clean the one injector, replace injector. DaveW

Look at the very end of the stud. Several stab bar links have an Allen key socket in the stud, used to hold the stud from turning during installation. Dave W

Or you could try flat flooring, but you will need to level surface, i.e. you will have to shim the garage floor because the typical floor has to much slope. I was within 18 lbs. on the worst corner Vs actually corner Wt. To be honest I could not tell the difference, that the 18lbs. made in handling. Which ever method you use, you still need to level the floor. Mark the four spots on the floor and the shims needed at each location. That will save a lot of time for the next set-up. Dave W

Unless this a strictly racing build, the vibration is going to drive you crazy! Have you looked at adding a spacer(s) under one or both engine mounts? You have to be careful not to pre-load the engine mount(s) or trans mount. If that is not an option it's time for some heat and a ballpeen hammer. Dave W

Must transmissions will have a small nylon cup [some times brass] that the end of the gear shift lever will pilot into. Just search for replacement parts for the trans that you have. There should be an exploded view of the assembly. It should not be hard to find a replacement part, since it's a high wear item. Dave W

A possible option for attaching your windage tray and using red Loctite, is to simple safety wire hex head bolts without a locking agent. Dave W

Replace or pull the thermostat and check the temp which it opens at with a pot off hot water on the stove. I had the same problem even after installing a 92C thermostat, but I'm dealing with lower temps. I have a large rad and at the time I did not have a thermal by-pass for the oil cooler. After adding a block off plate in front of the oil cooler, warm up time was cut to the 10-15 minute range. I now have a Mocal thermo by-pass on the oil cooler, which works great. Dave W

I have a pair of safety goggles and use prescription glasses, but prefer to use safety slip-on side shields. The side shields do not restrict your vision as much as the goggles, and still give you protection across the top, side, and bottom. Plus they will slip in your shirt pocket when not in use. If looking for the side shields, you want the soft, not hard, plastic shields. Dave W

Where in Michigan is the Seven located. DaveW

I added a new longer and larger Dia. 30" muffler, which was still way to loud! I finally extended the exhaust system all the way to the rear and then added a short aftermarket motorcycle muffler at the very end of the system. Much more liveable

If you are using that much gas, you should see exhaust smoke and smell raw gas. You could get better mileage with a BBC. I get 22 MPG on the back roads and 30 MPG at 75 on the expressway. Dave W

If the series 1 car is unmolested, it is a good chance that the rear live axle is from a Standard [Triumph] 10. DaveW

Victoria British shows two Sprite/Midget rear wheel cylinders for 1958-62 M/Y's. Their P/N 7-406 or 7-315. Take a look at the break down view, to determine which type you need. They should probably be able to help on the Triumph Herald front cylinder stuff on their web pages. DaveW

Victoria British has piston sets from std all the way to .060" over for the 948 engine. DaveW