Dave W

"simultaneously add some pressure to the passenger compartment" I have an acrylic rear window that spans the roll bar. When completely closed, it increases the pressure in the cabin. The window has a center sliding section and opening up the center section 3 or 4" makes a noticeable reduction in buffeting. The low pressure area behind the window does a good job of drawing the air out of the cabin area, which cuts down on the main cause of the pulsing. You will probably need a method to tune the air flow for best results.

Copper is the opposite of steel, quenching will softens and slow cooling will harden.

I made a cup holder using 2 1/2" aluminum flat stock. It form fits to the tunnel. It slips over the tunnel with slight tension so it doesn't move. Looks like an "S" shape on it's side with a flat area for the bottom of the cup. A couple half rings to hold the cup at the top, that pivot to adjust for diameter.

I used Yamabond on my side cases, which ended up being removed two or three times a season, and I might add, sealed W/O gasket, and the Yamabond came off the sealed surface in long stripes. Just clean the surface with brake cleaner, before re-assembly. Some of the sealer will squeeze out, but the outside surface can easily be wiped off. Most of the newer automotive RTV's work just a good, and available at any parts store.

Now is the time to drill the plug for safety wire, before the trans is installed and filled with oil.

I had notice one rear caliper pad was wearing down quicker, which had a short stiff brake line. I replaced the hard brake line on that side, and added a large 3" loop to the brake line which allows the caliper to float easier plus it has made caliper and pad removal a lot easier.

Could be low fuel pressure. Check the pressure with and W/O the vac connected. Possible pump, filter or pressure regulator.

After you have completed all the wiring, you need to check the complete system. Start by installing each fuse one at a time. If you don’t have a master cutoff switch, then leave the battery clamp loose so it can be quickly pulled if there is a direct short. Once you have verified that the individual circuit is OK, then move on to the next fuse. Once very fuse is installed and all the circuits are checked, including the engine instruments, then go back and rap the harness with wiring split tube or plastic spiral rap and attach the harness to the frame with “P” clips. If your budget allows, you might want to look at wrap around braided sleeving from, cabletiesandmore.com supplier if you want an upscale look. I would not use tape to wrap the complete wiring harness, because it will be PITA to trace or change any of the wires if you do have a problem, or later want to add a new circuit. In fact, you should consider adding extra wires to both the rear and front wire bundles. lt made life much easier when later I added an air horn. Add the extra wire color codes to your notes or schematic for later reference.

Just tape around the lower shock adjusting threaded section to prevent nicks and picking up road dirt. Use your anti-seize on the countersunk screws on the disc.

I had a similar problem, with my engine. I was able to cut a little over 4mm off the neck and machine another 3mm off the top of the cap. A simple check should tell you how much material can be removed from both surfaces.

It has to be an A/F at idle or you would have noticed a drop in power thru out the whole power band Vs just the temp. If there is a power drop, then a cylinder leak down or compression check is needed. A very lean mixture condition at idle will have NO carbon band at the very end of the tip of the center spark plug electrode. Could be a bad valve, but again you would have a noticeable power drop.

The engine is running lean at idle. I would clean the injectors.

Shouldn't the throttle cable route straight under that "Z" shape plate, Vs at an angle? Also you might want to safety wire the end of the throttle cable to prevent the ball end from slipping out.

Engine Masters, recently rated oil filters, and rated K&N in 1st place, followed by Wix. Both filters showed less pressure drop an more flow. With the K&N filtering 10 microns, Vs the typical 20 microns.

A V8 oil filter will pass about 9 GPM, and a NASCAR engine will pump between 4 to 6 GPM, so you probably need about 60% for your 4 cylinder engine, to be on the safe side.

Depending on how much time you have, you might want to consider building a Seven Vs swaping in a VW engine into a Brikin. I believe Dave Watkins still has one Rush chassis for sale in Ann Arbor. David Watkins britkitcars@att.net http:/britkitscars.com Ann Arbor 734-222-9702 The only down side is that it would probably take a year to build Vs a month for a engine swap, to be on the road. You are probably better off $$$$, to just buying a Seven that already has 150 HP.

I do not have a flat tappet cam, but have always added 1 qt of Rotella with ZDDP, to my oil change cocktail. A little ZDDP goes a long way in protection, but even the newer diesel oils have been reduced.

Did RM recommend that you change to a different plug [a colder plug] once you get to the track? How about base timing, did that change at all?

680 miles from South Lyon MI. to Rochester MN. about 13.5 hrs of seat time. Failures; blow off a heater hose and ventated an engine block, both close to home.

If you decide to modify the pedal box, you might want to consider adding a pedal stop to the clutch lever. You will already will have half work for a 2nd clevis pin that can slide thru a hole, or into a tube or block. Much easier now the later, after you are on the road.

Reverse polarity, check all your connectors to the gauge.

There are other options, if you need to meet Ontario requirements, i.e. your typical split plastic or braided cable covers. The only problem is you have to order them by wire bundle diameter. Then you end up trying to fit 10 lbs into a 5 lbs bag trick half the time. Which ever way you go, I would advise that you only use tape on the short small bundle wire runs. Dave W

If warping a wiring harness, check out an industrail supply or electronic shop for spiral warp. It will go on much quicker then tape, and can be removed, it can expand if you need to add a wire or modify the harness. You can also use it on your brake and fuel lines. Next year when you add a air horn and have to take half the harness apart, you will be you did. davew

I’m just an old fat that raced a looong time ago when you used carbs and no exhaust-temp or A/F sensors. It’s not hard to figure out that if you are burning the ground strap off the plugs you have detonation. I’ve been thinking there is another possible contributing factor. You may have such an efficient combustion chamber that the spark lag time is shorten at high RPM. Some race motors need the ignition advance reduced on top end because the flame front travels much faster at high RPM. That might show the two marks on the ground strap, if the advance curve is flat, say after 2,000 RPM. If that is the case you would see the correct timing at mid-range but have too much on top end. In either case you still need to reduce timing. Also, the A/F ratio and/or cylinder distribution is probably contributing to the detonation since it is only two cylinders??? I would think the dyno tuning would have an exhaust sniffer to determine WOT mixture. After the tune, I would still pull the plugs at the race track just to verify the state of tune. $hit happens, that you only see at the track! You need to look at the base of the plug right where the ceramic and steel meet. You need to see a narrow 1/8” wide dark grey ring at the base. A wider ring is rich and a small or no ring is lean, and the timing mark on the ground strap should near the bend, NOT past the bend. One thing I do is save the last set of plugs [in cylinder order] just to be able compare them, to look for any A/F mixture or timing changes after race day.

I may be off base, but looking at the single plug photo again, could there be two heat marks on the ground strap. One pass the bend "advanced timing mark on the strap and a 2nd mark closer towards the center "correct timing". Any possibility that you have an actual timing change occurring at very high RPM? An external ignition pick-up that vibrates or goes into resonance? Dave W