MHKflyer52

Neat.....cold tires will get you every time.... Nice track.

Well my car is back on the road and everything is working as it should now. Replaced the gas cap with a new cap that vents a lot better, changed oil and filter twice encluding the oil cooler. Oil pressure is rock sold at 75 psi until warmed up and then stabalizes at 50psi. Now noise's from bearings or valve train so I am a happy sevener. Weather is nice and I am going to head out for a nice drive unless my loving wife has something else planed for me but then I will get out later if she dose. Remember to drain those OIL COOLERS when you change the oil as they do hold old oil...

If you look it is screwed to the fiberglass that is blue. One of the CMC kits that I looked into did not even come with a rollbar as it was an option in the early models I do belive. As for the front upper wish bones they look a lot like the ones I made to fit the MGB front spindles when I made my car in 2003. See attached photo.

Robert that is just mean but very cool....:smilielol5:.....

Ok guys the louver press for x-mass is good. I like the fenders. Lots of labor to get them to look that good. Looks like it might be one of the few CMC 7 clones that actually was finished by the builder of their kit as they used a Miata as the donner for the car also the dash looks like it is one of the fiberglass dashes that they made for their kits. Nice car if you like that many louvers.

That is fun but I could waste a day playing with it. 3.65 but I work as a designer / engineer and use SolidWorks a lot so I am use to looking at angles and circles and such....I guess I should be better.

Well I started to put my 7 back together last night after having drained all the oil and fuel from the engine and removing the oil pan and letting it sit open in the garage for the weekend to let it air out and evaporate and residual fuel that might be in the block. Decided to pull the oil cooler out to drain it and flush it just to make sure no fuel was mixed in the oil cooler even though there is a thermostat valve that keeps the oil from going to the cooler when it is cold. Am I glad I pulled it as the oil cooler was full of gas and oil also. After looking at how the oil thermostat works it just blocks the pressure side and not the return so when the engine filled with the fuel it drained into the oil cooler through the return line as far as I can see. If you have an oil cooler on your car you might want to pull it when you change your oil and flush it out. I am planning on doing this from now on every time I change the oil in my 7 as I had always just changed the oil filter and drained the oil pan but never the oil cooler which holds just about a quart and a half of oil with both lines and now I realize that the oil in the cooler dose not drain out into the oil pan because of its location and the routing of the two lines that are connected to it and the engine. Sure would have made me mad to have serviced the engine and then find that the oil had been compromised due to way the oil cooler is setup and works in my car. The oil cooler is mounted so the oil cooler is centered in front of the crankshaft and the bottom edge is at the same height as the top of the oil pans top edge and has a nice stream of cool air flowing through it which is why I mounted it in its location and never considered how the oil drains from the cooler. Oh well I guess this is just another one of those living and learning sessions that we all experience so I am glad this has happened to me so anyone else might also learn from it without all the unpleasantness that I have experienced so far from this adventure called ownership of a 7 which has not really been all that bad and a lot of fun so far. PS: Still looking for a better way to vent my gas tank besides the vent built into the cap without causing a safety issue so any ideas are appreciated.

Man Arya that is cold....Franklin7 looks good I think especially with the new hood. :jester:

NOW THAT IS FUNNY:smilielol5:

When peening over the post be carefull you don't crack the carbonfiber part. Drill the hole one size larger than the post diameter for expansion of the post to help prevent cracking the carbonfiber part. Just my opion. Martin

Don't know but it has one heck of a front end on it from the photo.

Welcome to the nutty world of LSIS cars you should fit right in......do members of the forum get a discount for counseling with you....:jester: Oh and if Mazda (aka: slngsht) asks to use your car to fit something do not do it as he has a welder and a sawsall and his car is known as Franklin7.....just a word of warning......:smilielol5:

Very COOL....Now you have something to shoot for when you drive your car in an Auto-x as you now know the ability of the car....Fast Smooth what more can one ask for from a teacher of the cone attack....Very Cool.

Look at Speedway Motors as they have lots of seats for all types of driving.

VERY GOOD POINT you have their and I will be looking into a ventilator that is used for boat motor compartments. Thanks for the heads up as I had not though about that.

Yep that is very cool. I wounder if it is going to sale.

Now that is funny......

Well the car was in the trailer for 18 days and the average temperature during those 18 days in Ojai, CA. was 84 degrees which means that inside the enclosed trailer it was closer to 110 / 115 degrees. Your most likely wondering how I came up with what the temp inside of the trailer was. Well yesterday May 9, 2010 it was 78 degrees in Ventura, CA. were the trailer is now and I put a thermometer inside the empty trailer to see just how hot it was and after a half hour I checked the temp and it was 100 degrees and stayed that way most of the day. I was stunned to see that much difference in the temp but when you think how much area the side and roof present to the sun (420 sq. ft.) to absorb energy it makes since. Sure am glad that my trailer is white on the sides and the top is aluminum colored and not black or some dark color. No the trailer is stored on a large flat area and is parked with the tongue about an inch higher than the tail of the trailer so that any water will run off of it if we have rain. I have to agree with the gas cap not venting correctly as the rubber in my cap seems to have swollen so a new cap is being sourced along with a fuel shut-off valve to be placed in line to prevent this from happening again. Thinking about it I am glad no one was smoking around the trailer and that there was no spark when I opened the door to the trailer to check the tie-downs as there was a strong smell of fuel and I even looked for a leak but saw none when checking the tie-downs. Our RV has a solar powered fan that fits in the roof vent and I think one is going to get put into the car trailer as soon as I can get over to the RV Service Center to purchase one. This should help keep the temps down inside of the trailer and keep the fumes down to a minimum also.

BURR.....it is 68 degrees here in Ventura, Ca. at 0943 today May 9, 2010.

Gas tank is vented through the cap. Replacing the cap with a new one as the one I have looks like the rubber that makes the seal to the tank neck is swollen so it is getting replaced just to be on the safe side.

Thanks Drew. That was one of the first things I did after draining the engine and pulling the plugs before sticking the bore scope into each cylinder to look at the valves.

Well here is something that has never happened to me or to any car I have owned. A little background information: I store my 7 in my car trailer when I am not driving it or keeping it at my home and it is secure on our family property and I am the only one that has keys to the trailer. 7 secured to floor of trailer with four cargo straps to keep it in place during transportation. Trailer locked and secured with car inside trailer. Fuel tank 3/4 full (approx 3 gallons of gas in tank when parked in trailer two weeks ago) after auto-x that I participated in. Battery disconnected with an electrical master switch plus another master switch. All switches in the off position. Electrical master switch key removed from car. Opened trailer to Friday night May 7 to check straps before moving the trailer to my home so I could use my car over the weekend. Smelled fuel but did not see any signs of a fuel leak while checking cargo straps. Move trailer to my home and parked it in front of the house (Friday evening). Saturday morning (May 8) went out to open trailer and get the 7 out to go for a ride as the weather was just about as perfect for driving a 7 for the shear enjoyment. Un-hooked the cargo straps and put the ramp down (enclosed trailer). Noticed the smell of fuel so I looked to see if I had a fuel leak or signs of one and did not see any sign of a leak. Connected electrical master and climbed into the car to start it. Turned master switch on, turned fuel pump on, fuel pump sprang to life and pressurized and stopped as it should. Pushed starter button. Engine turned over very slowly and tried to start but would not start, acted as if the battery was down and did not have the power to turn it over so I climbed out and just pushed the car out of the trailer. Went back into the trailer to get my battery jumper box and did not see any signs of a leak on the floor of the trailer as I walked into it. Returned to the car and removed the hood and to my supersize it looked as if the carb (Weber Down Draft two barrel) was seeping fuel out the filter. Removed air filter cover to find the carb full of fuel and a puddle of fuel and oil now under the car due to the angle of the street where the car was parked behind the trailer. Turned the Battery Master OFF immediately. Pulled the dip stick to see the oil and saw that fuel and oil were seeping from the dip stick holder. Now I am shocked as I have never seen anything like this with an engine, especially with the fuel tank located low in the chassis (carb is approx 20 inches higher than the tank and the fuel pump [faucet type] is located on the frame rail that the floor is attached to and is level with the bottom of the tank). Put dip stick back into holder to stop leak. Push car into garage and put up on jack stands. Checked the fuel tank to find it almost totally empty (approx 1 qt of fuel left in tank). Drained oil from oil pan to find that I now have 3-1/2 gallons of oil and fuel in four oil drain collection containers and less than a quart of fuel in the gas tank. I now have the valve cover off, plugs pulled so I can check that I did not damage a valve when I tried to start the car when it was in the trailer and it was full of fuel and oil. Did not find any damage to the valves so I think I lucked out and did not hydraulic lock the engine when I tried to start the car. Talked to a friend and he thinks that the cars gas tank vent might be plugged and that the tank became pressurized due to the heat inside the trailer while it was being stored causing the fuel to be pushed through the fuel pump and up into the carb float bowl and then into the intake manifold and then into the engine. My plan is to fill the engine with oil to coat all the internal parts then hand crank the engine to get the oil and fuel flushed out of all the passages and then drain the oil and replace the oil filter and then fill the oil again and then crank with the starter to get oil pressure and then drain and replace the oil and filter again then start the engine and bring it up to temp and the repeat the oil change again. Any ideas or suggestions will be considered and are much appreciated. Side note my engine is now as clean inside as the day I finished building it up as far as I could see with a bore scope that I have access to. Looked into each cylinder and into the oil pan through the drain plug and cut the filter in half to see if there was any metal in it from when I tried to start the engine while it was full of fuel and oil, NO METAL SHAVINGS I think I might have not toasted my engine but will not know until I start it and run it.

OK guys lets all step back and take a deep breath, it is starting to get mean in the tone of the posts. Have a nice evening and be cool and lets not get mean.

Yep and I would bet that is just above IDLE......:rofl:

OUCH....Tough crowd I guess.....:smilielol5: