rx7locost

I try to read it every week. It is a great resource. I'm sure it takes quite some time for you to compile. I used it to see what value to put on my Locost when I sold it last Fall/Spring (the one now listed by it's new owner on eBay/Craigslist in Columbus) For some insane reason, I still look at this thread. Maybe I haven't kicked the habit yet?

I think he was talking about the other CMC. ( The Champion Motorcar Company in Alabama , or some such variation, Steve Laurendine's co.) The Champion Motorcar Company, business stopped About 9-10 years ago IIRC.

A shameful plug for my Locost. It is based on 199o RX-7 drivetrain. Street legal and driven for the last 6 years. Has been to many Midwest Gatherings. Full details on LocostUSA.com http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=12318&stc=1 http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18460

I'd sandblast the surface to clean out the rust. Then use a small amount of JB Weld to fill the pits. And sand flat using a sheet of sandpaper on a pane of glass (with a bit of water under the sandpaper). That should show a combination of the base metal and the JB.

Review of Hydromat is here: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=17572&p=217829&hilit=hydromat#p217829 As for why the Sevens have the problem, we tend to mount the pumps at the sides of the tanks instead of the center. Add to that most of us have very narrow, but W-I-D-E tanks so more space available in the turns for the fuel to go. And maybe has something to do with the way we take corners. :driving:

It appears that it may be either a twinkie or a deluxe based on the wheels. Both of which, I would take over the silver car. Interesting double-arched windshield on that one. Never seen one like that before. I'd like to find a C&C somewhere near me.

You might try contacting these people http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/html/minature_gearbox.html

I thought that 500hr recommended refresh period was unbelievable. At least for a street car. A 120HP single rotor, N/A Wankel? Doable, but for drivability, and durability, I'll stick with the Mazda built version. By the time the starter, alternator, water pump, oil sump and pump, intake ass'y, etc. are added, that cute little engine won't look so simple IMO.

Bigdog, your tongue weight seemed to be a bit on the light side for everything I have known. SO I just had to check things out. I looked at several trailer websites for recommended tongue weights. Virtually all single axle trailer mfgr's recommend 10-15%. That seems to reduce by 1% if you have dual axle trailer so, 9-15%. So your 150# of an 1800# trailer seems to be close enough to the minimum recommended weight. 8.3% vs 9% Where things don't make sense to me is the boating guys' recommendation, specifically Shore-Land'r. They recommend 6% for single and 5% for tandem axle trailering. I can't figure out the why's on how boat trailers are different than all other trailers. There are presently 4 states that require trailers over 1500# to have brakes. Does you trailer have electric brakes or didn't you bother?

Nice looking trailer Bigdog. I think the axles look further off center due to the long tongue. Looking at the car over the axles it looks fine. You may want to move the car further forward to get ~200 lbs on the tongue. I have had no problems towing my Locost with a short wheelbase 2dr Jimmy. The car is about 1425lbs + 8 or 900(?) lb trailer. I haven't weighed the trailer after completion. The tongue weight is right at 265 lbs. The car is noticeably forward of the axle. I too have electric brakes but have not had to use the manual override at all. BTW, no sway bar either. .

Consensus on the Locost group is that this was a "COLD" kit. aka: Canadian Online Locost Distributors

Almost everyone over on the LocostUSA group is running the ebay dual row aluminum '92-'00 Civic radiators. It doesn't seem to make a difference which seller. I haven't seen one dissatisfied customer. We are cooling I-4's, V6's and I think there might even be a V8 in the mix. It does a wonderful job cooling my rotary-engined Locost. For ~ $75, you can get a radiator and a 14" electric fan. Can't beat the price and based on many satisfied builders, the performance is virtually guaranteed. Many of the package deals include a 12" fan. I bought the fan and radiator separately. Save your $525 for some other improvements. SInce we get to build our own radiator mounts, I have no idea how it might fit in a Caterham.

These symptoms are common with MGA's and modern fuels. The fuel in the bowl actually boils causing a lean mixture. One way to confirm a lean condition is happening is to enrich (apply choke, if present). If the engine smoothes out, then this is the cause. A few have found a solution by installing a boat bilge pump and directing outside air directly onto the fuel bowls on the carbs thru the use of air tubes. This works for SU carbs. Might work on Webers?

For less than 1/3 those costs, you can build your own to your own specs. If you have a welder and some time. I converted an old pop-up trailer to a dedicated Seven hauler. New tires/wheels and new hubs w/electric brakes. Total cost including trailer, title and registration was less than $1000 after $78 in reclaimed aluminum and other metals. If you can build a Seven you can build a trailer to your requirements. P.S. the pics were taken before the fenders were put made.

My locost uses the eBay aluminum Civic radiator. In my installation, it has 3 posts that fit into grommets. Two at the bottom are in grommets inserted in extensions of the car's frame. These take all the weight of the radiator (and its coolant). One at the top, fits in a bolt-in, removable arm. My electric fan fits to the radiator via those plastic mounts that fit thru the fins of the radiator. After 4+ years, no problems. If you want pics, just ask.

What is it? - "A replica of a 1960's Lotus Seven." How fast does it go? - "I don't know" Is it a kit car? - "No it is stick built" Who made the kit? - "Nobody. I built it from scratch. I started with some steel tube and cut and welded until it looked like a car" Where did you get the kit from? - .........

Take a look at this page......http://muggyweld.com/cast-iron-block-repair. I do not have any recent experience with it, but cast iron has been repaired by many methods over the years. I did have a flathead repaired by brazing some 45 years ago. If the break/hole is in a non-stressed, non-coolant, non-oil-gallery area of the block. I don't know why it couldn't be repaired by the right shop.

working on a Win-8.1 laptop for me.

I may be looking at this oil volume all wrong, but here is how I see it. Pressure and volume are interrelated, at least until some form of regulating device is put into the circuit. Assume the oil galleries are operating at some fixed temperature and RPM, they will provide some fixed resistance to oil flow. If the oil pressure relief valve has hit it's operation point, say 60PSI, any excess "volume" will just have to be returned to the sump via the bypass route. The larger pump will do nothing for the bearing and journal lubrication and since there is no more flow thru them, nothing for cooling. When operating below the pressure relief valve setting a higher volume will provide more flow, and as a result, more cooling.This is wasted energy. The engine has to use more if its available HP to drive the larger pump, making less HP available for the wheels. Just my thoughts. Chuck

Me too Russ. Same 3 nights. Hope you get your engine installed and don't have to bum rides. It would make a good break-in for you. I hope Cliff Flath shows up. I have a bottle waiting for him. Cliff? You out there? You coming?

Never had to ship a car.. But after watching "Shipping Wars" on A&E TV , I wouldn't even think about uShip. The Shipping Wars truckers use uShip as their means to obtain loads. There is not one trucker in that program that I would trust my car with. I'm sure that a lot of that is hype, reality TV, and they have many reputable shippers, but I think I'd stick with a shipper that specializes with shipping vehicles.

With absolutely no expertise at all, I'll offer a differing point of view. IF (that is a big IF) the engine is in good nick, any extra volume provided by a larger oil pump is just wasted HP that doesn't get to the wheels. It won't provide any higher oil pressure than the pressure regulator is set for. Contrary to popular belief, the rotating parts etc do not ride on the flow of the oil. They ride on the molecular film that is wetted to the metals. As long as oil is getting to the last bearing, not much more can be attained with a higher volume pump. That is all predicated by the basis that everything in the engine is in good condition. Worn parts require higher volume to get the oil to the last bearings in the oil galleries. Some well respected people claim that 10 PSI for every 1000 RPM (up to the pressure relief setting) when the engine and oil is hot is enough pressure to do the job. Look it up. It is on the internet. It must be true. That may be a simplified rule of thumb. And may not fit all engine designs.

I am not aware of other Sevens in the Chicago area besides Graham and myself. I am ready for may (or June, whatever). I hate Chicago Winters! I just changed the rear springs from 200# to 250#. Haven't had it out since then. Nothing else on the plan for upgrades this year. I am working on some alternative transportation options, but that won't keep me from being there.

I've got a lowly street driven Locost and am in West Chicago,IL 60185. Nothing fancy. Powered by a '91 RX7 drivetrain. If you care to swap stories, you're free to stop by.

^+1 Your engine will thank you. Engines are so much cleaner nowadays thanks to the elimination of lead. Much lower deposits in the exhaust valve area not to mention the longer plug life. AFAIK, it is illegal to add TEL to a road driven vehicle.