rx7locost

I agree the odyssey is a good battery. I run one on my Locost for the last 3 years. They are very good. Adapter terminals are available accessories, including the automotive posts and the tractor terminals too. I only posted the Yuasa UK link because you said you could not find any information about it. The yuasa is a wet cell technology. Not bad, but needs constant maintenance. The modern tractor batteries are sealed/vented and no maintenance. The Odyssey is a starved electrolyte, or glass mat style. Any of them will do.

You should be able to pick up one (equivalent, maybe not Yuasa) at any Lowes, Home depot, Sears etc. You are looking for a U1R (reverse terminal) garden tractor battery. Just make sure it is at least 26AH and 200CCA and make sure it fits, There are slight differences between mfgrs. Something like this: http://www.sears.com/diehard-gold-lawn-garden-battery-group-size/p-02850795000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kpid=02850795000&kispla=02850795000P&kpid=02850795000&mktRedirect=y

Yuasa 896 is a garden tractor battery. According to the Yuasa website: http://www.yuasa.co.uk/batteries/leisure-marine-garden/garden-machinery-batteries/896-896.html. You should be able to pick up one at any Lowes, Home depot, Sears etc. Case Type U1-48M Voltage 12V Capacity at 20-hour Rate (Ah) 26 Cold Cranking Performance (Amps) EN1 200 Mean Weight with Acid (kg) 7.5 Cell Layout 1 Terminal T4 Recommended Charge Rate (Amps) 2 Length (mm) 187 Width (mm) 127 Height (mm) 181 Price £46.95

The usual mounting using a bobbin isolator side-loaded always seemed just wrong to me. I mounted my muffler using a generic muffler hanger from Speedway, Summit, Jegs or ????. Gravity keeps it loaded vertical like it was intended to do. It will not tear itself apart like a bobbin isolator will as the engine torques. I could have made the chassis mount side a bit less conspicuous. I have 2 years on this design now and it is working great.

OK. That video was depressing. At some time in the future, I won't even get to drive my Seven? Some BOT will be doing it for me? No thanks! Oh wait, instead of building fun cars, we can all be building our own DIY version of the BOT. "How to build a Stig-BOT for 250 million pounds Sterling - and race it" I'm all in now!

I am using ancient Lucas round backup lights. I mounted them in a similar position to Dave's on the rear panel. I converted them to LED array vs. the original 1156 bulb. details about the conversion can be found here: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=4145&start=405

In 2011, I registered my freshly built Locost in Illinois. Our state allows for special registration as recommended by SEMA for Street Rods and Custom Vehicles. As such, it is titled as a 1960 Lotus Custom. No Emissions testing is required. Illinois has no periodic safety inspections for any passenger vehicles so that is not required either. The State did inspect the vehicle and applied the VIN. They came to my house and did it in my garage on a Sunday morning! It looks like North Carolina enacted similar SEMA sponsored legislation in 2009 http://www.bipac.net/page.asp?content=streetrod_custom_bill&g=SEMAGA

In Illinois, they came to my house! And on a Sunday no less!!! Years ago when I got my Motorcycle endorsement on my drivers License, I had to take a driving test at their facility. The first thing I had to show was that I got the bike there legally - i.e. by trailer or someone else rode it there. As each state is different, YMMV.

Not local to you. If you can't find anyone locally, you might try this. A lot of us over on LocostUSA.com have our roll bars bent by rollcagecomponents.com. Jimmy does a great job for a great price. He did mine about 5 years ago to my drawings. He forms the tubes and cuts fish mouths, ready for you to weld into your car. He uses his own tubing which you can see on his website. You may check with him, maybe you can ship your tube to him? But it may be better for you to sell your tube locally and not ship the tube to him.

For an experienced Locost builder, this would be a good project. Building the frame to original specs would be relatively easy. The rest is cleanup and assembly. That is unless you wanted a race-ready engine. That would take $$. I'd be tempted if I had the room.

~45 bucks for the whole halfshaft at RockAuto.com. (87 Merkur XR4Ti)

:iagree: Looks stock to me! And dry too:hurray:

You could take the safe way out and use a flat copper washer under the flange of the adapter and the M/C housing, just lie a banjo fitting would use. If necessary, you may need to cut off some of the AN-3 threads. And you are right about the different tapers on your adapters.

Yep first shot with bullets, then shot with bean bags when he didn't respond. The homeless guy was reported to have died at the hospital. Blood can be seen on the rock under his head when they were cuffing him. It was a sad day all around.

Ugly or not, I built my own hardtop. Why not? I built the car. It works great and suits me. The top flips up to enter and exit and is weight balanced with a pneumatic cylinder. Video of the top in operation can be seen on youtube. [/url]

The acetone is a solvent/thinner for RedKote. So is MEK if I remember correctly. I've not had to clean out the entire tank, but cleaned up the drips and accidents on the concrete floor. Here is my thoughts. Drain the tank and dry it out. Fill the tube with acetone and try to keep it filled. As it dissolves the RedKote on the intake screen (I assume that that is where the problem is) , it will be more and more difficult to keep the tube filled with acetone. I'd alternate between soaking for 5 minute and blowing with ~ 1PSI into the tube. Too much air and you could blow the pickup filter off or apart. Any dissolved Redkote should recoat over the old coating in the bottom of the tank. Let everything dry for at least 24 hours before filling up with fuel. You've really got nothing to loose by trying. Here are the Redkote instructions. Note step#2, remove sender unit and filters...... http://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

Talk to the radiator shop that sealed your outlet hose and sender. They were the ones that screwed it up. Is the sealant a translucent red or blue? If so, it may be RedKote or Northern (something). Same stuff, different color, made by the same company. That can be disolved and removed with acetone. If it is an epoxy, then all bets are off. You can always cut away the fitting from the tank. The pickup tube should come out with it. Then re-weld (resolder) a new one in place, rather than trying to replace the entire tank.

Anyone notice in the 2013 race, everyone close to the camera was wearing ear protection. In the 2014 race NOBODY was wearing ear protection.

Scannon said: Thanks. I tried to pay homage to both the Lotus 7 and my power train donor, an RX-7. Adn the license plate speaks for itself.

But I will.....There is no way I would try to represent my Locost as a Lotus. It is Lotus inspired. I don't even have a Lotus Key Fob. Well, in truth, I do. It is for my yard tractor key. I think that about covers it.

7 out of every 10 people are dyslexic. There are 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand binary and those that don't.

Cuurently I'm 61. My first encounter with Sevens was when I was a youngster. Before I had my driver's license, I would occasionally see someone tooling about town in a Lotus. I decided then that I must have one. Looked at Birkins about 8 years ago and couldn't get comfortable in the seat. Decided to build my own Locost for the educational aspect. I learned a lot. Now I get to reap those hours of labor. I've driven to 2 Midwest gaterings, putting on more than 1500 miles in each long weekend. Plan on attending this year's too.

From what I see, Idaho is one of the Sema states. You might consider re-titling it as a "replica vehicle". As such you would only have to meet the emissions of the vehicle your car is replicating (say, 1963 Lotus Seven?) The down side is that you may want to retain the "Caterham" name on the title. Change the title, or change the car....... hmmmmmm.......

I don't know what the life is. I'm only past my 2nd year on the PC680. While still considered a normal discharge current, 5.6mA seems a bit high for the battery to be left alone for any real length of time. The PC680 is only a 16AH battery. Left alone, that 5.6mA would fully discharge the PC680 in 4 months time. I would never intentionally let a battery discharge below 50% (or 2 months) before topping off the recharge on it. Repetitive full discharge of a battery will shorten its expected life unless it is specifically designed for "deep discharge". You might add a battery shutoff to the car if you don't already have one for those dormant periods. The "self discharge" rate of the battery by itself will last 6-12 months between charges easily. Or perhaps hook up one of those "smart" battery tenders when the car is sitting for periods.

Yep cool! Looks to be a later sevenesque(ish) vehicle to me, based on the rear lighting. I think it is definitely after the fifties, and sixties.