Bonjo2

Enough for now. 92 octane gas and MAP sensor location, and tight inlet piping kept me out of the 500 club. But, solid safe tune for my 7/11 gas and to move my big ass. It is so smooth now too since Josh removed the fly by wire ramp up, now 100% throttle avail at any rpm. It made car much easier to drive and no longer breaks loose like a freak when the throttle program decides 100% throttle is o.k. Fans now on 100% early too, to match thermostat. Now 199 is pretty much as hot as it gets when sitting in traffic for 30 minutes.

https://instagram.com/p/BC0icJExhuX/

don't want to hijack..

First "Bomb Girl" I did the COURAGE as a tribute to the early 80's Lotus F1 Cars. The wheels are a bit heavy, American Racing Salt Flats, like stock S-10 or my previous AR wheels. Bolt pattern really limits choices, and all seem built for a 3500b car or truck, 17x12 rear and 15x9 front. Even with custom offsets they were about $200 each, vs the $499-1200 I was quoted for lightweight custom drilled. Add a couple cans of gold spray paint. Initial setup was white, then eBay carbon vinyl and red came vinyl. Drift brake was alway there. Add a wood block to wedge between dash and handle and the emergency brake becomes a parking brake. I don't use it much, other than to initiate a donut or quick 1-2 lane 180. The car is very hard to drift due limited steering angle. I built a windshield frame, but I cannot pass inspection with my squeegee (manual wiper), and without a defrost mech. So, Brooklands are back on. I am running another standing 1/2 mile with hopes to go faster than 150. The t-56 doesn't like redline shifts, so will try short shifting at 125 and hope the torque carries me the rest of the way. Last time rev limiter and no 5th best of 142.

Very cool. Try skipping the burn out and launching in 3rd gear at 5-5500 rpm. Not sure of your gearing or tire dia, one shift to 4th should rock you to 132-141. You will still spin WOT above 90mph without a passenger. The BFG drag radials were the only way for me to get into the 2 second club, and sometimes fluke you into sub 2... My current 315 tire setup are more suited for corners than straight line grip. I'll need to g-tech, but figure no better than 3s due to not being able to launch the boat anchors in 3rd.

Very cool. I am a little surprised you didn't opt for the IRS and miata spindles. I love the side impact bars!

The latest. Not quite complete as I'm still working on sump guard, front wings, and installation of some competition ported heads. And possibly a ton more stickers and/or stencil art.

Yeah, didn't have much luck until later in afternoon, but no GoPro batteries or videos. I was very consistent passing the 1/4 cone at 130-132, launching in 3rd. I wish I had more video to share. The car still breaks tires loose in third on launch and then on the shift to fourth, which can be a little hairy..

https://youtu.be/01xN6hqSp-4 Here's my second run. I started in second, but couldn't get into 5th gear. Roughly 125 MPH at 1/4. This run coasted down to 90 at finish where the 700 BPH Caddy blows by at 150. Later in the day (no go pro) I was really quick, launching in 3rd gear at 4500 RPM, which landed me 132 MPH at the 1/4 and 142 in the 1/2 where I managed to hold fifth gear in place for a couple seconds, before it popped out. Torque is a wonderful thing for stuff like this. My best guess is that I should be able to hit 150-160 next spring. Problem is my short shifter was for a mustang, but the tranny from a camaro. It's only like 1/16" difference. That, coupled with my rubber shift boot crimping up at the corner. Now fixed. No problems, even holding in high rpm.

Bump. Update. Trailer sold, photos of shocks listed.

I have 5 3/4 Headlights, UK style right bright, Caterham replacements. 7R-01066 Anyone know if the US H5 sealed beam fits, or of a replacement lens and bulb? The lens has 3 clips that hold it in place. Caterham tail light replacement bulbs. Autozone came close, but bulb dia too small. Would love bulb number. Nothing cross referenced to the numbers on bulbs. 750 and 752 Thsnks.

Bump. Back from vacation. Looking to move some stuff.

I broke my back in a Subaru (T-6 compression fx, and 4 compressed disks), and bent the seat mounts and seat frame. I think the preferred near vertical seat position of autocross and some road race cars to blame. In the stalker I run a "dicks sporting goods" stadium seat pad, and several cuts of firm foam padding under my aluminum seat's foam and fabric cover, as well as gel sides. The gel is really amazing but pricey and comes un-upholstered. The issues with the stalker and modern sevens with tall motors is you cannot see over the hood in a true lay back position. But, every degree counts, spreading vertical load.

I used some cheap speaker carpet, and some reflective insulation. It fits under the dash in front of the shifter and between seats and tunnel. My shift boot pops on top and it stays put. I added a small bit of yoga mat in the elbow area.

I think a true single donor that could sell 50-100+ a year. It is also a great idea for a USA clubman series car for low displacement cheap locosts. I think there's also a market for an off road clubman. Look at what RCR and the Aerial guys are doing. Makes more sense than paying 12-18K for a side-by-side.

Pretty much everything in the photos is for sale--including the Brunton Stalker Trailer.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/88668757@N08/1h6Jnj photos of stuff.

Standard UPS ground ship for everything but the wheels and tires. Hampton/Norfolk/Newport News/Williamsburg Virginia Area. Can meet within 1hr drive. Pair, 13" GAZ Gold Aluminum (blue) adjustable shocks with spherical bushings. great condition, 5-8K miles. Can include a pair of 7" or 8" springs in 250 or 500lb. Best offer for pair. Rear Wings/Fenders. 12" Standard Brunton Stalker-red cammo vinyl and black rustoleum + Bed Liner $150 12" Birkin with recess on exhaust side, NEW Primer $200 Shop Lights NEW Linkable LUMALINKS Two LNX2 and One LNX1 $150 obo (cost $499 now online). Purchased for house that the deal fell through, and now new home already has flourescent lights. These are linkable units that can be retrofit to a garage using a single outlet.

If I do another trailer once I get into a house with a yard, it will be twin axle aluminum. The design is really neat though and could easily be copied as a twin axle. It's just a bit bouncy for me, though using a minivan or car to tow is pretty cool given it's so light.

I drive to D.C./Fairfax a lot.

It has a single 3500 axle, though I wouldn't think to ever put more than 2k onboard given it is a single axle, unsuspended. It's the standard Brunton spec.

2011 Brunton trailer, currently titled and registered in Florida. I believe it weighs 650lbs. I’ve used it only 3 times; once from FL to VA, VA to PA, and then PA to VA. I'm in between homes and can no longer justify the storage fees for something I rarely use. It's been stored outside and used to paint bits for my car. I’d like $1500. Link to video. https://www.flickr.com/photos/88668757@N08/15178256396/in/photostream I’m at Poquoson, VA 23662

Seschm... Very cool. I've not been able to find any photos of how the original snow plows were mounted.

I think a 1.8-2.0 twin scroll would be perfect for a seven--much better than my current LS motor. I had a subaru friend that did the twin scroll and his car was nuts, and with only a 2.0. Lots of torque. My car had a bigger turbo and faster 1/4 mile trap speed, but his car was so much quicker where it mattered. It's like doubling the torque of your displacement picking up at 1600rpm vs. 35, or 4500rpm. Can you share a link to the seven?

I did mine in Dinoc Carbon and it sucks--never again. But, for $249 for an entire roll, I can probably do my car three times... The carbon bubbled on nose around radiator after 1 yr, hood sides near headers after a year and a half, and now on scuttle. Heat is the enemy. Not bad initially, but the vinyl gets brittle or just bubbles when near heat. The only areas holding up are the sides, rear panel and rear fenders behind the bed liner fronts. Though now I do see bubbling near muffler on side panels. It would be great for a fridge or toolbox or car that has insulation, closed wheels, and not so close to ground. After my nose failed I just hit it with satin black rustoleum. When the hood failed, I peeled it off and left the original white paint. The scuttle is still carbon, but now bubbling after 2-years. The rear panel, side panels (dinoc carbon), and rear fenders (red cammo). I did the grill on my honda pilot and it's still holding up well. This winter I will probably wrap the car again if I can score some free offcuts. If not, satin white or black.