Bonjo2

You can get the thick clear vinyl by the sheet on ebay or rvinyl, new truck bedliners with uv protection ($8 per spray can black, white, or tan) nearly any color by the kit for ($139 or enough for your entire car), plasticote spray paint which is cheap ($9 per spray can) and peels off if you don't like it, folks use it all the time to black out their logos and chrome grills/trim. If only speaking leading edge of nose, a-arms and rear wings you could do it all for under $50 with any of the above options. Though, another $25-30 probably worth doing the rears in 16-18g alu or .020 polycarbonate sheet/film (about $10 from lowes).

I ended up getting green. I will have them painted and mounted in about 2 weeks, onvce I move out of my storage unit and into a house...

1. Pop 2lbs of fake rivets out these monsters 2. Paint top three colors. Fluorescent Red (like Bugatti GTS or Donker) Fluorescent Green, Grabber Green, or Metallic Flake Candy Green (Think Monster) Monster Low Carb Blue... Flat Tan/Brown--talk contrast.

WOW. Love those last wheels. My AR23s are heavy and not as cool or high tech. They are more like boat anchors. I have 2 for sale with new tires. Hampton VA to Montgomery Village MD drop off only. 2 American Racing AR23 15x7, 5 on 4.75 bolt pattern (chevy), 3.5 BS w/205/50 Yok ADVAN Neova AD08 Mounted and balanced-less than 4 miles on setup

Car is/will be carbon fiber black soon with white frame and roll cage. Looking for a wild color to paint my simple 5 spoke wheels and the inside mouth of the seven's nose, and contrast w the mostly carbon car. Looking at the recent trend on some of the GT cars (porsche & Donkervoork), it seems a fluorescent color would be best. I will do a different color later in the year when it comes time to order a set for track tires. Green (like Monster) Red (like the Blk Donker factory racer and Wht Porsche GT3 RSR) Pink (have daughters... Masculine color in Japan, but might just be gay here) Flat Blk Satin Blk Piano Blk Gold (like OLD BBS) Gold (Like Subaru STI) Bronze Silver (like stock, matches nothing on car less the header)

The Birkin rear fenders are very high quality and smoother and more dense than any glass products I've purchased. No bubbles, ready for topcoat, and extra lip for increased rigidity. The only downside in comparison to the caterham and locost one's I previously purchased are the lack of pre-colored gel coat. So, a little extra cost to paint or wrap.

Yeah, the rear flaps and aeroscreen look like the old wing flaps of the ferrari 512. I'd love to see more. The front splitter look pretty mad too. The car is a 3 rotor, but that's all I know

found photo on a time attack site, jp. Front splitter and rear wing are interesting

I decided to go with some 12.25" from Dick Brink at Texas Motorworks, just waiting for the invoice and total. However, the same day I rec'd input from two other sources that I'd like to share. First. Curtis Unlimited. "We make rear wings that are 8", 9", 10", 11", and approx 15" wide. We could shrink or widen a pair to get 12" if that is all that would work for you." curtisunlimited@aol.com Second. jpc.mouldings on ebay. He offers a bunch of grp bits for the seven, including 12" wide rear wings at around 90 pounds a pair, shipping to the U.S. is another 90 pounds. So-very reasonable. Highly regarded on the UK Locost forums.

I'd love to see any photos you have Randy, a link? I'm still in the market for a pair. I'd like to buy some, then play around with the ones I have for track days.

can you email me? Looking for 12" wide. bonjo2@gmail do t com

The sevens I drove had a tone of power (over 200) and seemed to exaggerate every throttle off or throttle on with rear rotation and only pushed when entering too hot and braking late. Not easy cars to drive very fast, but fun as hell. Maybe the no front swaybar and stiff springs helped front bite and kept the rear loose. Having only driven the stalker about 20 miles, I cannot really say, but have to go with what I read of other stalker guys.. I've not corner weighted or even messed with tire pressure yet. I do know that from idle at very low speed in 2nd and 3rd, a 1/2 throttle blip makes tires break loose with ease. I think for street, spacers and a 225 DOT legal tire in order out back. On track I am leaning towards a 15x10 + 275/45 15 rear DOT A6 r compound until I get things sorted enough to run slicks. My goal is 450 Bph and not more than 1650lbs curb weight (for starters). My car is really more a sprint car or modified than a lotus.

Rather than widen and lengthen my stalker fenders... Looking for Caterham/Birkin/Locost rear fenders that are 12" wide or slightly wider. I would like to ditch the 7" rear wheels and go with 10-12" wide wheels. Thanks

from picking up

Your car is an inspiration. Amazing... Perfect color. I hope you don't mind if I copy.

I think the list is never ending... forgot rivets and sealer Eventually-once registered/street legal -race wheels and sticky rubber -wing-nuts/quick release for front the rear wings

I picked up my turn-key roller from FL. It's now in storage until I return from my deployment. Now I'm just "stalking" up on parts. So far, (way over budget) 14 Row Oil Cooler Accusump--manual valve GRP Caterham-Cup Style racing seats Caterham-Style Light set 6-Point harness--corvette style (short wrap top, bolt in side and bottom) 8 Circuit T-Bucket harness 2 residual valves digi-dash 2 GRP aeroscreen Needed C&R stakler radiator Corvette coolant tank Air/oil separator Fuel tank vent Switches F-body T56 Short Shifter base + Mustang set back lever Hydraulic hand brake + prop-valve Other to do's Paint White, Tuxedo Black, Dark Grey Metallic Reinforce front wings Front-side + bottom panels, rear under panel/diffuser Radiator/oil cooler/aux cooler shroud + hood vent Misc alu/carbon or GRP panels/covers Vinyl padded trans tunnel and sill protectors .5 rear wheel spacers w/longer ARP studs Front chin spoiler Batter looking rear wings--need top reach bottom of car vs. look like trailer

first look, Build at Brunton's new facility

Stationed at Langley Air Force Base in VA. From MA, but a FL resident.. Like a rolling stone.

I am so psyched now. LS3 stalker being built by Scott. It's too bad I am deployed until Christmas... This will be my war trophy, so to speak. I've always wanted a seven and always wanted a 289 cobra, now to have the best of both. Scott, feel free to post any photos. I look forward to meeting you and Glen in August, when I am home for my R&R. Best Regards. Avery

Colin would probably not approve. However, Brunton adding "lighteness" to their S-10 based 7 using pedestrian OTS parts (corvette engine) is sorta inline with the Chapman mantra, with a little Tim the Toolman "more power" thrown in. Besides, who wouldn't want to drive a sprint car on the street. Inspiration: Lotus Seven, Panoz LMP-1, and Sprint Car.

I just ordered a LS3 Stalker turn key and look forward to the experience. I've always wanted a Caterham but would never have been able to swing the high end sport bike performing ones. This should do the trick, will be a handful, and will allow me to participate in cruise nights.

I'm new.. I started build of my cmc just prior to 9-11. Since then it's been as close as a couple days to finish. With work (military + finishing masters degree) and my subaru wrx requiring all sorts of attention (blown turbo, then tranny, then front dif etc..) it's been on the back burner. I sold my rx7 drivetrain and purchased an 06 Yamaha R-1 motor. Now I have a solid plan to finish in Spring once it warms up... WY is windy and COLD. I first caught the seven bug when I was 10 and my old man dragged me to just about every race at Limerock (IMSA) and Watkins Glen. I first saw a polished 7 at a limerock vintage weekend and fell in love. I've since drove a couple and couldn't fit the Birkin or Caterham $, so did the CMC. I got re-motivated with the home built seven article in a major car rag, esp Chris's BEC. I autocrossed for about 6 years in a neon, a subaru and ran about 10 rallycross, a couple autocross schools, and 1 track day. I hope to have a street legal car I can drive to events and have a ball with. All I need are a prop adapter, drive shaft, and some time with a MIG. I plan on shortening the passenger compartment by 3-4" and dumping the Caterham low back seat in favor of a home-made onepiece seat/tunnel cover like the Ariel Atom. I'm shooting for 1000lbs less driver and about 150Bph, and plan on using the bikes gauges and controls. This board is just what I need.>http://home.bresnan.net/~bonjo2/Bonjo2%20Locost/Locost%20Lexan.JPGBonjo22006-10-27 22:05:27