BlueBDA

I need new studs to mount my Dellorto DHLA 45 carbs to their manifolds. Can anyone recommend a source within the US? Looking online the only possibility I've found is CB Performance. They show lots of parts but I don't see the studs. Need to get them ASAP...

Thanks everyone for your educational responses. I called Roger Kraus, and it ends up I have 3 ZZR/S options (which I realize now is what Croc says above): ZZR A24 compound (softest) ZZR A64 compound (harder) ZZS A84 compound (still harder) From reading I was ready to pull the trigger on the ZZS, as I could hit rain on the street (or autox or track, for that matter). But before I do, I want to get more thoughts on just how dangerous either ZZR would be if (ok - when) I drive in the wet. Thoughts? Of course I am replacing 14 year-old CR500s, so I'm sure anything will be a vast improvement. Also - I am committed to buy one set of tires for all uses for now. After a season or two with the car I'll decide if I want to get a set that's optimized for autox or track.

Does anyone know of a shop in eastern MA or in RI who is experienced with tuning side-draft carbs? I used to do this years ago (actually downdrafts, on my Porsche 914, and side-drafts on my Honda motorcycle), but I'd like the help of an expert for this motor. My apologies If I have already posted this question :banghead: . Thanks in advance. -Jeff

My 97 Caterham needs new tires for autocross, track and street. Rims are 13x7 rear and 13x6 front. Recommendations? Avon ZZR vs. ZZS? If you are aware of this having been discussed recently please direct me to the appropriate thread. Thanks. -Jeff

My belts are dated to be good through 2019. But if I go to all the effort to upgrade to 5 or 6-point, I'd probably replace them, as I'd just need to next year anyway. I like the idea of 6-pt better than 5-pt. I assume the two bottom belts would get installed the same way as the single one for the 5-pt?

My car has 4-point belts, but I know it has been on these tracks before, when sabbot owned it. Did the rules change? Are these sufficient? See image - is my terminology wrong? http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15231&stc=1 Refer to the final event instructions here http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?12285-Sevens-Event-NJMP-Drivers-Club-June-28-30-2019-Final-Event-Details

I am interested in this thread also. Also interested to connect with other local 7 owners (smross, drewbrese). Maybe shoot me a PM to connect?

I believe the Ecoboost is a turbo engine, so if you autocross that would put you in a different class.

I am planning to camp (tent). Anything I need to do in advance to reserve a spot?

Brookland screens, no weather gear, 6-hour drive from MA - sounds like I should rent a trailer.

Neiljhamilton: Would both of you be driving your Sevens down, or trailering them? I am in the Boston area. Am planning to trailer, but if you are going to drive them down I might do that instead and join you...

Reading this whole thread makes me wonder: I'd like to trailer my car from MA to NJ for the Sevens get-together in June. Will I be able to rent a trailer at U-Haul or equivalent that will work for this? Pulling with our AWD minivan.

I hope to attend, with my 97 Cat BDR (formerly Stewart's). Glad it's not on Independence Day, as we always have family plans then.

Could some other rotor be turned down to create what you need?

I have a '97 Caterham DeDion, regular body size, cycle fenders. I am wondering if these wheels would fit (for autocross and track): Diamond Racing Wheels, lightweight steel, with slicks mounted 13" x 10" 4 x 108 bolt pattern 4 1/2" backspace Should they fit my car??

Dave - I sent you a PM.

wemtd for the win! Same design on a Cat. Looks pretty simple, as long as I can separate the splined shaft from the u-joint. Thanks.

Searching images online I see wheels with either pattern - even Momos with either pattern. So I'm thinking there must be a way to turn the steering shaft keyway 180 degrees?

I don't know what you mean by "dish symmetry"? If I flip it front to back the hole pattern doesn't change.

I received the steering wheel. Good news and bad news: The good news: It seems to be excellent quality. As good as a Momo, for 1/3 the price. I like it a lot. The bad news: The bolt pattern is 180 degrees off as compared to the Momo that I currently have on the car. So if I mount it it will be upside-down. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=14795&stc=1 Can anyone advise me as to the best way to rotate the keyed steering shaft or connection on the steering wheel 180 degrees??

I have finally confirmed the thread size: 1/2" NPT. So I think the best solution is along the lines of what fastg says above: 1/2" NPT male to 6 AN male adapter, washer between adapter and tank, and a 6 AN cap. Now to order, likely from Summit Racing.

Stewart you've been great - very helpful. This was the biggest leak point, and likely the easiest to fix. I'm getting to know the car better through this work so no worries. The other leaks - around the pump, and front left engine, seem slower, so I'll likely live with those into next season and try to figure them out over time. The pump might be the adjusting screw, and I did buy a sealing washer to go on that, so we'll see if that helps. And the front left engine is likely the hoses that you had mentioned to me. Those look tough to get at. Wondering if other folks have experience with that on a BDR?

Thanks guys. This page: http://50.62.235.225/files/drysump.pdf though not the same brand of tank, lists thread size of M22-1.5, which is about what I come up with when I measure with my caliper. Definitely a finer thread than 2.5 pitch. This page: http://50.62.235.225/files/caplug.pdf Has a couple plugs that might work. I'll see if I can order them somewhere.

My dry sump oil tank has one fitting in the lower half than needs to be plugged in my application (1700 BDR). What was in there was a large, headless, hex-drive plug, like a giant set-screw. The flange on the tank and the plug/screw each have a cross-hole, through which a cotter-pin is inserted, to keep the plug from moving. Problem is that this is a leak path for oil. Pictures (I don't know why the forum turns my pictures 90 degrees): http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=14747&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=14748&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=14749&stc=1 The fit of the threads is very loose. I know I could just wrap a bunch of pipe thread tape around the plug and put it in, or use pipe thread sealant from a tube. But neither of these seems like the right way to seal this hole. Seems like I'd want a bolt with a head on it, i.e. an oil drain plug, so I can torque it down, which would snug the threads up and help the tape or sealant to seal. As best I can measure and guesstimate, the threads on the plug are M20-1.5. When I search that I do find oil pan drain plugs that have that thread size. They're not anodized aluminum as this plug is. Steel bolt in aluminum tank might corrode. Thoughts on the right way to seal this hole? Am I over-thinking this?

Thinking through it I figured that is what they are doing. I might try it anyway, but there has to be a more elegant way to solve that problem.