BlueBDA

A Tesla Model 3 Performance matches or out-performs the BMW M3 and the Audi RS3 (and most 7s), and uses the equivalent energy of an ICE car getting 116 mpg. So even if the grid isn't that clean, the energy used to drive the Tesla is responsible for WAY less carbon being emitted into the atmosphere. And the grid will get cleaner with time.

I would think it would be pretty difficult to move that kit without one of use getting wind of it. Hopefully.

Ok, so: I readjusted tonight. On the right side I just went a little tighter, and it seems fine now. On the left I went a bit tighter than the right, and I still have this looseness/clunk sound when I rock the wheel. BUT - it only seems to make the noise when the wheel is straight. When I rotate the wheel as if turning the car left or right the looseness/clunk sound aren't there. You can hear the difference in this video - turn the sound up: Might this be a ball joint, or something else, rather than the wheel bearing?

Awesome - thanks guys. Will try this tonight.

Yes - doing this with the tire off the ground. I was hesitant to have the bearing apply any drag, but sounds like a little drag from the bearing is ok? My main concern is being able to pass tech inspection for autocross and track days, and any play can be cause for failing tech. I have also heard that for track use some people have their bearings a little on the looser side - does anyone know if that's a thing?

I am trying to adjust my front wheel bearings and having some trouble. I could feel some movement when trying to move the tire with hands at 12 and 6 o'clock. So I removed the dust cap, removed the cotter pin, removed caliper, re-greased both bearings, reassembled. I then torqued the nut to 8NM, backed off the nut a tiny bit if I needed to to insert the cotter pin, reassembled and test drove. Then checked for play - and I can still feel some, on both sides. Thinking I should go 1/12 turn tighter on each side and then try it out, but I'm worried that the bearing will be too tight? Advice?

No - sub belts attach along the sides.

Ok, after a bunch of phone calls, it looks like I've figured it out. I have ordered these Schroth FIA harnesses: https://www.schrothracing.com/item/profi-ii-asm/competition-harnesses to be configured by them with bolt-on ends, pull-down lap belt configuration, and added sub belts, also with bolt-on ends. As a bonus the camlock lives on the lap belt, so I can use these as 4-point harnesses on the street, so I am getting everything I wanted. Many thanks to Zach at Schroth USA (800-884-2358) who helped me figure all of that out. Which I realize now is what JohnCh said above - thanks John. I understand it all now!

There's an existing thread on harnesses for track, but I'm starting this new thread relating a harnesses for road and track. It also seems that the FIA rules changed in recent years. I am having trouble finding any harness that works for me. My FIA 2019 belts are expired. Background: - Many (all?) tracks require 5 or 6 point belts in an open car like a Seven. 6 point are generally considered more comfortable, and safer I believe? - 2" shoulder belts are not supposed to be used without a HANS device. - Sevens use bolt-in harnesses. - As my seats are movable, I need adjustable lap belts. Pull-down adjusters fit in a Seven; I don't think there is room for pull-up adjusters. Given all of the above, I need belts that bolt in, are 6-point, have 3" shoulder belts, and have pull-down lap belt adjusters. As far as I can tell, this does not exist. It's as if I have to decide whether to drive my car on the street or on tracks - but can't do both. I'm very frustrated. :banghead: Advice?

Why is that? Also I believe NJMP doesn't allow 4-point in an open car, right Croc?

Reviving this thread to get help with my current belt dilemma. My Racequip 6-points expired (2019 dating). So I know that I need new belts before I could do a track day at NJMP or probably other places. The Racequip that I have can be used as 4-point or 6-point, as the buckle is on one of the lap belts. According to Pegasus Racing, FIA now mandates that the buckle be on the crotch belts. So FIA 6-point belts can no longer be used as 4-point. I really don't want to go to all of the trouble and expense of replacing with SFI belts and have only 2-year dating. Advice?

Seller, 911r, is a very experienced, and admired, Bringatrailer seller. Fantastic photos helped a lot. When the ad went up I knew that the car would go for higher than market value. Interesting to note that in the video the car had old, hard tires on it, so it easily skidded around, which made for an exciting video.

Lovely. If they only made one of those 1/2 the size.

New alternator installed. Drove maybe 25 miles today, in hot weather, and volt meter read as it should at idle and at speed. So it's fixed. Yay. Last year the tensioning bolt fell out of the alternator, and I got stranded with a dead battery. Based on what the sheet that came with the alternator said, my theory is that when the belt was slipping it fried the alternator - more likely the voltage regulator. But whatever, I'm good now. And - I was finally initiated as a true Seven owner today, when my wife and I got caught in a thunderstorm 2 miles from home. We saw the storm coming, but ran an errand on the way home anyway, as I liked the challenge of beating the storm. Definite Type 2 fun.

Thanks for the input everyone. New alternator on order. Hopefully that fixes this. Will update once installed.

At this point I'm thinking I just need to buy a new alternator and hope that fixes this. It's very frustrating right now as I can't drive the car at all. Any other thoughts anyone before I pull the trigger on that?

I did have it tested at an alternator shop, and it was fine. But I realize now - it was cold. The problem occurs when the engine heats up.

I took a bunch of measurements today with my voltmeter, and here's what I learned: - Voltage gauge in the car reads 0.1 to 0.6 V lower than my multimeter (VOM). - Battery voltage (per my VOM) was 12.7-12.8 before starting. - Checked for parasitic current losses, and didn't detect any. - With engine running, before it warms up, voltage is around 12.5 at idle, and 14.0 or higher when revving. - MOST IMPORTANT: Once the engine warmed up, the voltage measured with VOM at the battery, and at the alternator + terminal, was 12.2. 12.0 with the lights on. Revving the engine did not budge this voltage - meter needle (yes - it's an old, non-digital VOM) did not move AT ALL. - NOTE: I did measure a voltage drop of 1.0-1.2V between the alternator + terminal and the battery + terminal when running cold. The scale on my VOM made it hard to read this, so I'm not 100% confident in this datapoint, but I did see the needle move a little. Once the engine warmed up this voltage difference went away - no needle movement at all. So - it charges when the engine is cold, but stops charging completely when warmed up. Bad alternator/voltage regulator? Other ideas?

This morning I checked the ground cable that goes from the engine block to the frame. Sanded the surface on the frame that it bolts to, to make sure there's no paint in the way. Cleaned and reattached. The cable was a little bit frayed at the crimp connector (though still plenty of strands intact), so at some point I'll replace that cable just to be certain. On my starter the terminal that the smaller wire (not the big red power cable) attaches to has some looseness. Hard to explain, but it looks like it is attached to the starter with solder, and the spade connector juggles around. So I fastened that down with a wire-tie, thinking that maybe a poor connection there is somehow affecting charging. Started it up and drove around the block. Volt meter read from 12.5 to 15 or so. At this point I'll take it our for a drive every day and notice what the volt meter says.

I had three connectors to the alternator: Heavy cable that attaches to a stud with a nut, and two spade connectors. Based on this thread: http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?12700-Ford-alternator-wiring&highlight=alternator and what someone told me when I called the company that makes the alternator, and what the guy who tested my alternator told me, I disconnected both of the spade connectors. Seems they were a legacy from the crossflow that used to be in this car. So there's just the bolted-on wire, and it's nice and tight.

I'll check. By "body", do you mean the aluminum skin, or the frame?

I have been through a lot trying to get my charging system working properly (BDA engine). First: My car stopped charging, due to there being only one bolt holding my alternator on (the one it pivots on, so the one to lock down the belt tension wasn't there). Ok, easy fix. Next: Belt was stretched just enough to make the alternator hit the steering shaft when trying to tighten the belt. So belt slipped, and strange vibration came through the steering wheel when I hit bumps. New belt fixed that. Now: Yesterday the volt meter read 12 volts, or even a bit below, when my wife and I went out for a ride. I noticed it and turned back home. Was definitely not charging, as it cranked slowly when I went to restart it. Today I checked it all over, looked over wiring, checked for continuity from alternator to battery + terminal. All seemed fine. Started it up, and voltage was 13-14 volts. Went for a 5 mile ride, and through that ride the volt meter fluctuated between approx. 12.0 and 15.5 volts. Not normal - right? Faulty voltage regulator? I had an alternator shop test the alternator a while back, and it was fine, but now I'm thinking that the voltage regulator is intermittent, and happened to work well when the alternator was tested. Should I just buy a new alternator? Anything else anyone can think of? :banghead: :bigear:

Update: I have replaced the oil pan gaskets, and just finished last week replacing the two tubes at the front left side of the engine. Those were quite a pain to do, as there wasn't enough room around the male fittings on the head and block for the tubes and clamps to fit. I had ordered and received tubes from Dave Bean Engineering, and strangely the smaller one had a .50" ID, but the bosses on my engine were 7/16" OD. Maybe that's why it was leaking so much? So I bought some 7/16" fuel line, and Dremeled the OD down at one end to make it fit in the tight space. Used Gates Power Grip clamps on both hoses, as someone recommended to me on LOTUS7.NET. A week later, maybe a couple of drops in my oil trays under the car. Used to leak puddles in a week's time. Success!

Try Slonie on Instagram. Let me know if you can't find him.

They should just start making the Elise again. Or maybe they should just let Caterham and/or Birkin do that. How's that for an idea?