CASwede

Thanks Bruce. Yes, switched to phone calls starting in September. Never heard a word back. I got the UPS notice that it's on the way. Much appreciated.

I know in the past they have been slow to respond due to events and such. But since June, no returned call. No returned emails. Just trying to figure out if I should write off the amount I paid for a part and buy from somewhere else, or stay the course? Any info is welcomed. Probably too late to dispute the payment with the credit card company.

If you have to adjust the column at the u-joint, be sure to replace your nylocs and pay attention to torque when re-tightening. I believe my car had been adjusted often given the amount the wheel was out of center, and I found my nylocs were more than loose at the u-joint. The upper clamp position was all that kept the column from pulling out of the u-joint.

Good to know. Congrats on the quick turnaround.

Mine was open for other maintenance, so I took a quick look. No jiggle on my ZX3 with Kent sprockets. Might be time for a new tensioner pulley.

Keep us posted for when you feel like selling the current seats. I'm looking to swap my bench seats for some high back seats.

Surfing caps work well with the doors off. Strap holds it on, ear covers protect against wind, and lightweight for hot summer days.

For reference, I would add that my size 11 E's fit fine in an S-3 with a cheap pair of Puma driving shoes. Just keep a pair of walking shoes in the boot.

Those look like the bobbins used on exhaust brackets, which are different than the stock radiator bobbins. Not that it should matter, as I'd expect the exhaust isolation bobbins should be stronger than the radiator bobbin. Perhaps lack of flex is the issue? Edit: I also had those same Mini mountings fail when used as exhaust isolators. Replaced with a sandwich'd shock bushing, and all has been well.

Link to the stock bobbin. Mine are about fifteen years old, and no issues. http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=4298

Spin the nut to the bottom of the bolt. Cut a 3 or 4 inch section of 1 inch pine dowel. Place the dowel against the nut, and whack upward with and engineers hammer. The nut and soft pine wood will protect the end of the bolt. When tightening, spin it up with a non-nylock nut until everything is together and tight, then replace with a new nylock. There are one hundred different methods of voodoo that people have to unfasten that connection.

I believe stock Super Sprints used Spitfire two pot calipers up front, Sierra single slider on the back.

Funny. The older I get, the higher my risk tolerance. Life's been better to me than it should have been, and I want to squeeze every drop I can before a piano inevitably drops on my head. The 7 is like squeezing life with vice grips. I won't trade the sensation. Quality, not quantity.

Voted. Close to the 10k needed for review.

Somebody wake up the gimp.

I had been referred to Tech Machine in Livermore by a friend who spends his free time restoring cars. They have worked on several engines for him, and he's been very pleased. The internet appears to be generally happy with them as well.

I would add along the route, not to miss a restroom break at the Madonna Inn, San Luis Obispo.

This was a very good show on a car dealership in New Jersey, and all they would go through in order to meet the numbers they'd need. Car dealer is something you're born with or without. Entertaining for anyone who has sat through a morning sales beating on the showroom floor.... http://www.thisamericanlife.org/radio-archives/episode/513/129-cars

Craigslist. Buy it for $60. Sell it for $70 when you're done. Buy it/sell it again when you need it. Same with engine hoists.

My other car projects delayed the final answer on this one, and I wouldn't bring it up other than it drives me crazy to read threads that don't come to a conclusion. The sender was simply not the correct sender. The original sender was properly grounded to the block with a wire attached to the sender threads that I had not been able to see until I took apart the housing. There was proper grounding from battery to block to frame. The measured resistance was different between the old sender and the new sender. I stripped the sender wires, and crimped new fittings that would attach to the new sender. The new sender sends a consistent 80C/180F temperature to both the old Caterham gauge and the new AutoMeter gauge, so I'll keep the Caterham gauge in the car.

Has anyone else sandwiched a small shock bushing between the exhaust and body mount using a smooth shank bolt and washers? I picked up the idea off the old Blatchat after having gone through a couple Caterham bushings in a year. It feels to be working very well, and there is no chance the two sides will separate. Compression damping is preserved, though I've lost the expansion damping properties. I expect I'll know I made a mistake when my muffler joint disintegrates.

T9 leaks are often from the speedo drive. You might be able to seal it, but they often leak. If it dribbles a tablespoon or so overnight after a drive, then stops, it is probably draining from the speedo. The space where the oil collects is pretty small, and it would typically take a year or so before I'd have to add any more oil. I also have the 10mm allen plug on the side opposite the speedo drive. I picked up a set of low profile allen sockets similar to those linked below. They slip into any spanner, and make access to that fill plug pretty easy. I marked a dipstick so that I could tell "full" by accessing the top of the gearbox only. It's easier for me to fill from above than trying to get a hose into the fill plug each time. Other members have cut and welded an opening into the top of the gearbox so that they don't have to remove the bolts on top. But I find removing them from the engine bay is pretty easy with a small socket. [edited for correct website] http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/e8211z-red-low-profile-hex-bit-set-metric-hm1000-p-29577.aspx?kpid=37029&gclid=CKKq2MmIxMECFQ9cfgodd5AA4g

I would highly recommend these mirrors, based on function. They are not pretty. They slide on and off the existing door mounts with a sliding pin, so changing from door to doorless is easy. Does anyone know the source? I need a starboard side, and haven't been able to find them. No logo. I also use the panoramic, but I'm always glancing for the side mirrors. Habit.

When people are around the seven, it makes them happy. The Porsche will not do that.