WestTexasS2K

Busa the supercharger is still an option I just wanted to keep it simple. The CR is 13:5 to 1. I won't be able run more than 7 lbs which would be good increase if needed.

It is a Honda F22c. In current tune it makes 340 hp. I had one tune that made 348hp but it lost torque on the lower end so I opted for the better torque curve. I am going to experiment with velocity stacks a bit. The longer stacks made even better torque, but I thought I might experience clearance issues. So once it's in the car with the final exhaust and final fitting we can tweek the tune a little more. I do have some dyno charts I can put up when I get a chance.

I'm not sure why the picture rotated but you get the idea. Ha got it fixed. Didn't do anything different just reloaded.

I have been waiting on this engine for over 2 years and its finally done. I think it was worth the wait. Its a 2.2L and the 2nd highest hp NA engine that I have ever seen. Mine runs on pump gas the other engine was running on race gas and bested this engine by 1 hp. The main improvement in this engine is the torque. It makes nearly 60 ft/lb more @ peak than a stock motor but the torque curve is much wider. This engine makes big torque from 3100-9000 rpm. Where a stock engine makes 162 ft/lb @6500. This engine makes that about 3200 rpm and it goes up from there. It should make it much more drivable with fewer shifts and much more pull thru corner exit. Now I just need an Elite racing sequential trans to make the package complete. I am tempted while the exchange rate is favorable. Its still a butt load of $$$ which is really tough to convince my wife I need.

Why was he doing hot laps while everyone else was doing cool down laps? Hehehehehe

Shortened oil pan will require a new oil pump pick up which isn't a simple task.

Usually the pan run about 2.5 to 3" from the ground it will depend on wheel and tire size. If it has rubber biscuit style engine isolator between the frame and engine mount one may have gone bad letting the engine down a bit. Might check the passenger side sometimes the exhaust will soften it up and it will rupture.

I saw one the other day at the local cycle dealer. The front is ok but the rear is kinda ugly IMHO. 1700lbs seems a bit heavy for its size.

How does it sound.

Post some pics.

I would buy that car in a second. If the engine is hurt it will be very obvious, rattle, smoke or low compression in number 4 cylinder. The Honda is really good engine. It can be damaged but rarely in stock form unless it has an aftermarket computer with a bad tune. The only other time I have seen a damaged engine is from power adder or oil starvation. Which would be obvious in the testing that was done. Buy it and enjoy.

It's simple to do. Just flip the bearing over and run the shaft thru the dash. The main clearance issue wl be the pedal assy will not slide as far forward for shorter drivers. It won't be a problem for you

Good find on the Alltech I hadn't seen those before. I will have to save that for future reference.

I don't think I would trust foam or plastic balls from preventing fireball. The best way to address that is a bladdered fuel cell which is very expensive and requires occasional re-lining.

I have heard of this before but haven't tested the theory personally. I found bulk supply fairly cheap http://cdn.opentip.com/Sports-Outdoors/Gogo-Wiffle-Practice-Golf-Balls-Pieces-Wholesale-Lot-p-1039682.html?gclid=CLXDt7GLusICFc1_MgodLQcA4g . The companies website stated the plastic used holds up to fuel. They even make different sizes for the job. http://shop.ctstore.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=70

I like the v8 Miata. I've been watching them develope it for a few years. It's on my build list along with a 58 impala and 67-72 c10 truck and 49 Diamond T. Give use some feedback on performance.

I alway liked that car. Im surprised there havent been a few clones pop up since its introduction. A 200 hp Busa engine would be fun in there.

check the bushings that are on diff cover that secures it to the chassis in the trunk area. Maybe you had a bushing rupture back there.

I was hoping someone had a picture handy.

With the trans cover pulled out the drive shaft will look like it clears everything. If you look back under the u shaped metal cover the diff nose has about a 4" round flange that the U joint adapter bolts to. That is where the noise is most likely coming from. The bolt that holds the nose up can collide with the u joint if over tightened.

Ultralites us CV joint on front and U joint in the rear. I have seen this happen a few times over the years. I suspect that the metal U shaped brace that the diff mounts has an issue on the front support. I think that the sheet metal has torn and allowed the diff to drop and its hiting the rear u joint as it rotates. Or the rubber bushiing has broken. Usually it happens from getting on and off the throttle. If the metal has torn then the solution is to weld a reinforcement strap around the nose of the metal shell. Most of the later cars had this strap added but some of the earlier cars just had a hole drilled thru the metal brace. You will need to pull the trans cover and see what going on there. A diff support brace will keep the nose section from ripping out.

I lived in Thule Greenland for 2 years. We saw a few ice glaciers breaking off during the summer, but it was very small pieces the size of a car or a small bus. Not the size of a major city. That must have been awesome to hear in person.

Both are good looking cars. I was wanting to attend the Ambush this year so that I could see Gail and Lana's new build. The pics look great.

Wow that's a lot of rubber. Its looking good keep up the good work.

There are a few dry sump systems out there. Just Google it. They are expensive, but it wont gain you much in ground clearance maybe 1-1.5 inches. Like mentioned earlier the bell housing is the next thing to hit.