WestTexasS2K

Mondo that unit doesn't have enough pressure. You need a 255gph and 55-60 psi. I think this is a better option. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpn-gsl392

it looks like it is turned down to the ground. instead of turned out. Maybe try and turn the tip out a bit and try that.

M Wirth attach a picture and lets see what you currently have.

That was one of the first Ultralite's. It was in Kit Car magazine back around 2002. It is the car that encouraged me to buy an Ultralite. I believe that its the only Saturn powered car built. Then Brian found the S2K and fitted it to the chassis and they have been Honda powered ever since. Its looks to be in good condition. Ill have to follow the auction.

Grade 8 for sure.

I love the Rotrex.

Ukwesty try these guys in the UK http://www.tts-performance.co.uk/ if he doesn't have a kit he might can develope one for you. He makes a great product.

Hottcar I wonder how many hours people have spent online looking for a model like yours.😀

I have another boot ill send it back with the control arm.

He is the instructor that shaved my times down.

Was Pete Chalinar there with his green Birkin. He is so fast. Don't quote me but I think he runs in the mid teens 1:15-1:16 range. He knows the track and is a fantastic driver.

If you had regular fenders 1:23 would have been you best 😀.

1.22 is some quick lap times. That was about where I was the first 4 or 5 events at Cresson. I did have an instructor that helped me shave a bit off my times. My 1.19 was a perfect lap for me. I was able to nail every corner just right. It looks like you passed just about everyone on the track which is always fun. I never had a video camera that worked great. I did have built in lap timer in my Digital dash that I noted best lap times. I haven't been on the track for a few years. All the cameras available at the time that worked well were 600.00 or so. I just didn't want to spend that kind of money on video equipment at the time. There are much better affordable camera options available now. Which camera are you using? Your video quality and camera angle works well. Wind noise seems to be an issue with most cameras. A remote mic is needed to get the best sound.

We used to carry business cards when we did 1 Lap that had all the car information on it. It would save a bunch of time at fuel stops when we needed to get back on the road.

There is no such thing as making a quick stop for fuel or a errand. You spend 30 min at every stop talking about the car.

It looks like you have the ccw lines worked out. What kind of lap times were you running? I wanted to make it up there to watch you run, but work schedule has been relentless. It looks like you were running pretty quick. I think 1:19 was my fastest ever up there. I typically ran low 1:20 with street tires.

Why not just use a F20c or F22c instead of the k series.

Its pretty tall. You may want to check engine rotation of the K24. I know some of the earlier Hondas run CCW. I think the K24 is CW as is the F20c. I can give you the height measurements of the F20c if that will help you any. I have seen the F20c in a Westfield and the Ultralite and a few Locost cars. I don't think I have ever seen one in a Caterham.

Paul I missed the link a few times myself. The link is the last 4 words in the 1 st post.

It was a good enough deal that it sold in 3 days.

Im not sure how your car is done. Some cars used a stainless flex AN3 line from the master cylinder to a hard brake line. The hydraulic lock usually comes with the fitting to go to the hardline. Depending on the set up you can either buy a longer SS AN3 flex line to run to the dash you will need an 1/8 NPT to AN3 adapter to go to the lock. If you have a double flaring tool you can just cut the existing rear line and flare it to go to one side of the lock and then run a new short line to the other side of the lock. Double flare fittings and different line lengths are usually available at the local parts store. The AN adapters and lines will usually need to be sourced online. Speedway Motors that has that valve will have adapters and AN lines to complete the install. I would start with the valve location and then look at what you need to get the fluid thru it. Its a fairly easy install. It just sounds complex.

I have used these with good luck. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Park-Lok-Hydraulic-Brake,1970.html Just splice into front or rear cylinder lines. The knob needs to be accesable from drivers seat. I mounted some under the dash some on the small dash area just in front if the shifter.

I have searched for 2 years to find a suitable alternative. No luck. I think the best solution is a motorcycle hand brake with a lock. Mount a small rotor on the half shaft. Mount caliper to the diff. It just requires a bunch of fab work.

Oh I know she isn't going to leave it plain silver. I am sure she has a fantastic graphic scheme plotted out. I've been following the build and saw the engine paint.

No not really. Maybe good for someone doing a scratch build. Rear diff is good but a little heavier than other options.