Vovchandr

Any updates?

Rebooked for me & @wemtd & @NSXguy

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I have this posted internationally, might as well post here too. I’ve seen a few auctions that had these wheels as spare

Isn't the ECU harness primary the engine harness? I'm planning to get an engine harness as backup not the entire under dash harness. So I got a voltage and maybe tach that's going under the dash from it?

Sc1 is what I had at first and what resulted in me frying my system. As you know as an owner it's very easy to reverse mount. Yes I agree, it's just enough to keep the car running with little safety cap. Maybe a perfect track battery. I believe it can start the car about 5 to 12 times in a row from full without driving. Makes it very hard to troubleshoot a no start condition. I've upgraded to AT12 as some other members here did and it even has its own internal jumper, which is pretty clever. So far so good. I think it's capacity is about 4x of SC1. Once I fried the battery I had same feeling as you and went up in size.

Ok new update. The strange cutout 30 seconds in appears to be Lithium battery shutting itself off due to low voltage. Instead of a tradition battery fading and getting weaker, Lithium batteries shut themselves off sharply out of safety. Certainly didn't expect that. I'm in a pause right now while pending on ECU and further wise testing. I heard mixed feedback on whether the harness is safe or not. Some say that it's extremely unlikely for harness to be damaged as wires don't care about voltage direction. Others say don't plug new ECU in until you verify the harness as safe. I feel like between me doing more harm then good with my experience I'm better off going with the odds and just plugging a new ECU in and seeing whether car will start. My meter only does noise on a continuity test, not one for resistance.

On today's episode of "an idiot with a volt meter" As per advice before putting new ECU in I started testing the pinout of the harness plug to see whether wires were compromised. Went for easy ones with volt meter, ground and 12v. As I was testing the 12v or the 5v I don't recall with one lead on input and other lead on engine ground I saw all dash go blank I thought it might be a fluke and I triggered something. So I restarted. All lights back on, crank is fine, 15 seconds or so goes by and a relay or something under the dash by the fuse panel clicks and everything goes dark. Thought it might be because ECU is disconnected. Plugged it back in and now the same result. What relay or something else could be doing this? Is there a main relay on these? I feel like this is head gasket all over again. Try to do the best I can and just make it worse.. Stay tuned to next episode when I get a power prope into my hands

Unless I misread this suggestion I want to make it clear, I'm certainly not making my own harness. I found one available and will swap it over if needed and I have an Omex one in possession already. Your shield jacket comment explains why the crank wire has a bunch of loose metal in the shielding surrounding the two wires. It does stop a few inches short of the end but I don't think that makes a difference.

Noted. Thanks. Current plan is to get a replacement Pectel and hope it works. If not Im also ordering a harness with it and will replace that next if Pectel swap doesn't fix. I'm impressed with your knowledge btw. I've been looking on the Internet for Crank sensor values and what's acceptable for the feed of the wire and have been finding very little to none. Going to use my power probe next to do wire testing and continuity and or resistance etc to look for breaks.

Am I overthinking how big of a job this is? Is this all in the engine bay or will I have to get under the dash? I have two options right now. Either pay for a replacement Zetec Pectel harness or proceed with my Omex ECU and Zetec harness I already have. The nest of wires seems overwhelming and leads under the dash in the loom it seems. Don't want to get into this being over my head but I could also be over thinking this. Thanks

I hope it wasn't on the last week or two! I do have the cable too, I was actually recently able to use it without the USB adapter, pluging it in directly.

I think I have one lined up but just in case seeing if anybody has one kicking around that they've moved on from. Thanks

Thanks! I think I have a lead on another one of these ancient ECUs. Between time limit and my time investment into this system and software ecosystem I'll likely try to do a plug and play. I have my tunes backed up for this ECU and the current one seems to communicate with computer. Just doesn't run the car. Noted on the alternator and the wire inspection.

My cluster works but it's aftermarket and it doesn't really respond instantly to cranking. I checked old videos too, it blanks for a few seconds and then works. Current Old start example in the beginning of video. Known good It doesn't appear I have EDIS, all my coil wires either go to under dash to I believe tech or ECU My crank wire however might have taken the blunt of the short. Voltage going to it is 0.48 on one and 0 on other and the wires look for the worse with the shielding. Crack in one too. Not sure if this is new but i don't believe it's always been like this Haven't tested resistance yet of the crank sensor

I haven't stopped, I just have very limited time to be in the garage with an infant so I try to be on point when I get out there and that happens maybe twice a week at this point. Do I need alternator to start the car or even try to fire? Fuel pump turns on and I am at 40psi on the gauge on the rail. Had to look up what EDIS is and I don't think I have it. And if I do I think it's internal to the coil. I have spare coils that I can swap over. Time is of the essence with the track day coming up. Any easily replaceable part that could be questionable or fried that can't be tested will be replaced immediately. I'm hoping it's not the ECU but I still havent figured out a good way to test it directly. Is there a way to test injectors firing without spraying fuel everywhere? If I crank it won't spark plugs I should see wet cylinders right? Is there any fuse on a Caterham thats not part of the main fuse box that I could be overlooking? ECU communicates with DeskPro to start but gives errors

I have same one and works very well and it's a nice unit. Some US dealers carry it too Time Machines is who I got mine from

I believe the flicker/dimming is from the load My battery voltage is showing 13v on tester but ECU is showing around 10v in the software which is strange I'm also getting errors in the ECU log when I try to start it with a communication failure. Not a good sign. Posted about it on the Pectel forums. As I see it now I have about 7 different paths and outcomes 1) New Lithium battery is not giving proper voltage to ECU causing problems. Test with regular. 2) I messed up the wiring by disturbing it when unplugging the ECU, fix wiring as solution 3) I blew some sort of basic fuse or else, find and replace 4) I fried the ECU by hooking up terminals backwards. Find another Pectel T2 (impossible) or get it fixed/serviced? 5) I fried the ECU, redo wiring harness and put stock Ford ECU and figure out how to make it work with ITBs 6) I fried stock ECU, commit to a better ECU and do a harness swap quick 7) I friend stock ECU, commit to swapping the Duratec that I have sitting Ill have time to do some of testing above later today or tomorrow

Tested one injector pigtail. Seems to be doing same thing. Lit up but not blinking

Just tested it. I don't think it's flashing unless the incandescent bulb is just not responding fast enough.