Vovchandr

Ep 133 - CATERHAM, WESTFIELD & MKSPORTSCARS = AVENGERS ASSEMBLE... #caterham #westfield #mk #kitcars

#Lotus 7 Club. Seriously committed. #Westfield Sports Car Club

Catherham(Westfield) - Super 7 Touge Review | Meeting with a Japanese Car Enthusiast | JDM Masters

To me personally they would be the core item of the whole deal. Can you take detailed pictures of them and whatever engraving at all they might have? Or if they aren't part of the whole deal technically are you willing to sell them separate? Also how many miles are on the ITBs and their age? Mine had to be rebuild by Borla/TWM and it cost me nearly the cost of the brand new unit to get them rebuilt even though they had ~2000 miles on them but TMU. I was expecting their basic rebuilt quote of just a few hundred dollars when I send them in as they list on the website..

I hope they are all matching? That red top Bosch is a 30lb per hour injector which is fine and is matching what @catsv7 has on his car. I'm prodding questions because I'm troubleshooting my car and might have to "bosch-0280150945-ford-f1se-e5a" in the end and if I do it makes more and more sense for me to potentially buy your ITB set as a backup and injector package than just getting injectors on my own. I'll assume the others are the same but if you could confirm that they are it could be beneficial. Thank you

Saw this on Reddit the quality is to poor to make out the state https://old.reddit.com/r/whatisthiscar/comments/13zwqf4/sorry_for_the_poor_quality/

The Best Weekend Whip | Caterham 360S SV Review

Caterham 620R & Porsche 911 GT3 RS 4.0 (997.2): the best track car of the last 25 years

In this market almost nothing surprises me anymore. As a matter a fact I'm more surprised by something being cheap than something overpriced selling. This was a surprise for example clean, low miles (53k) with a hardtop That Goblin seems fair

Started the car yesterday with all new ignition parts and now no catalytic converter. Still hard to start, still sounds like it fumbles around. Big backfire pop a few times upon startup now from intake ITB runners and or exhaust. Scared me a few times. Made progress on datalogging and got my first recorded dummy test log! @catsv7 Now have to figure out how to wire in the wideband to be added to logs and I might be in good shape soon for this. Since the battery for ancient laptop is NA, I got a small power inverter from Ridgid that works to power laptop on the move quite well! In meantime I'm leaking oil from both ends of the mechanical oil pressure gauge and will have to address that after cleaning up the spill on the driveway... I think the compression fittings have to go a lot tighter than I've tightened them to. On the pressure side of things, my pressure is about at 6 bars cold and about 3.5 warm which I'm happy with seeing as thats close to normal.

June bump

June bump

You're quite a lurker! Thank you for the input. Cams are unchanged but I figured between using tools on the caps and one of them having a mechanical failure in the alignment tab some metal could have been made there. My Accusump grendaded on the track too with failed threads but I don't think it was steel. Bearings are likely an issue regardless. Filter is still in place and I can take a look at it. I bypassed the external filter and my front oil cooler for now and just put a regular filter on the motor in meantime. I can take a look at the filter at some point. Yes 5w30. I assume you're in the industry?

After years of accumulating parts, some of them are finally getting mounted Lower headlights (god what a horrible job. It would be easier to buy a newer 7 🙄) CF pods CF headlight buckets New Led blinkers CF Westermann Aero CF nosecone aero CF Westermann CSR fenders Still figuring out some mounting Also got to utilize econoseal plugs and tools and learn how to use them and used my aluminum (stupid expensive) anodized headlight through bolt hardware for the buckets. Reused the LED light but now it's semi permanently attached to the CF headlight ring with Sikaflex as I couldn't figure out an alternative good mounting method. The ring is attached to the bucket with double sided tape for now and the headlight cover..

Very good breakdown and useful info. What's your opinion on Element extinguishers? First Alert Fesa5 isn't "A" rated I assume?

I plotted mine against all those others for fun...

Here is a detailed one for the SVT blue one labeled as "Doug" (2nd down on the list) Very similar to the other one posted above Zetec SVT Engine with Jenvey throttle bodies. 176hp at wheels

Came across this graph on old California Dyno thread Very interesting to see a bunch of different Zetecs (and 2 Duratecs, 1 being a 2.3) layed against one another with different setups. Picture was very low resolution so I did the best I could with deciphering it. All but a few like the yllow one are very close to each other. Yellow being a stock ZX3 motor with no ITB's or Cams. The difference is pretty clear. This is a detailed map for the orange "MoPho" one above. About 170hp

Do you have a part # on the injectors to double check the impedance?

Element got back to me "Thank you for taking the time to contact us. The extinguishing agent your friend is referring to is Halon/Halotron which is considered to be a 100% clean extinguishing agent. In an aviation setting, an ABC extinguisher should indeed be avoided since it produces a highly corrosive powder that is almost impossible to remove entirely, is very damaging to metal alloys and electronics, and which can cause terminal damage if it gets into an engine. We are European vintage car guys here and one of the main reasons we got involved with this product is because we wanted an alternative to the ABC extinguishers that are commonly in use in the classic car world. The majority of fires that can be tackled by a car owner are small and an ABC extinguisher, most of the time, ends up doing much more damage than the fire itself. Our extinguisher utilizes a ‘clean’ extinguishing chemistry that leaves virtually no secondary residue. A light blast with compressed air is normally sufficient to remove anything that remains after a fire is out. Hope this addresses your concerns." Good info

Full disclosure. The particles could very likely be from my Accusump grenadining on the track day or the head gasket change/poking around with metal on cams and/or crack in the cam alignment tab when I left the alignment bar on but kept turning motor... I don't expect them to be high next round.

Also Blackstone lab report some of you guys are geeky enough to be interested in this High iron use. Silicon could be from the headgasket change/valve cover silicon on corners of gasket. .

Bye 😺 Nice to know ya

Thank you. I never liked the stock assembly look on the US cars and my original pod housing cracked so replacement was in order either way. Even the circuit board bulb housing on original is tied to the smaller housing and doesn't make an easy/weather proof transplant to the UK sizes lenses. I think at this moment I'll wire this up without a DRL option just to put everything back together and revisit this in the future with the suggestions listed above. Why do you find bulbs better than pop in LEDs? I've already swapped the electronic flasher as I recall because I have JAL tails. Thanks for advice on diode/resistor assembly.

That does seem useful and relevant! Thank you