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Everything posted by Vovchandr
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Fun fact behind that is that we are used to our view of ourselves in the mirror so this makes selfie images more tolerable to our monkey brains. "real images" look uncanny. Double fun fact. Things like WebEx mirror the camera for your picture on your screen by default but sends "true" unmirrored image to everybody else seeing you.
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Alright the more I look into it, the more I find that almost all LED are two wire. Am I missing something here? Can a two wire LED be wired to be a DRL with a constant 12v and he a repeater with a turn signal input?
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I figured it out. I need a 3 wire LED front turn signal to make this work properly. I connected back the old 3 wire bulb and it works as expected.
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Cat 😺 is going bye bye this week. I think it's clogged worse than I even thought. The engine is struggling to crank over with the exhaust on while I'm trying to troubleshoot it and compression test it.
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Thanks. I'll look into that. Prepping all the carbon bits for Sika flex with Sika primer. CSR fenders, wishbones aero, CF headlight buckets rings. Couldn't figure out any good way to secure headlights in the CF bucket rings so just going to Sika them in there. Should work.
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I have a hodge podge of wiring going on with the headlights right now. I should have all the wiring sorted out except I can't figure out what is the wiring combo that makes front blinkers light up during the first click of the headlight switch, which leaves headlights off, but turns taillights on and DRLs on if you have them. Correct me if I'm wrong but the turning signals on the front should glow amber during this mode? If not that solves all my problems. Also I don't have an amber light in the fender. I'm also converting to LED front lights, which are two wire. I believe the stock lights have a 3 wire setup. I have sourced my power for "DRL/taillight" power on the front. Headlights also work as needed. Blinkers and hazards work as proper. Just can't sort out the combo to have them stay on when you click on DRL/taillight with first click of headlight switch.
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Selfie mode on the camera mirrors the image unless you set it not to do so. You can see speedometer being mirrored too
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ABC Fire extinguisher "corrosive problem" with aluminum
Vovchandr replied to Vovchandr's topic in General Tech
So what I'm gathering so far is that the Element one is likely a reasonable alternative right now -
ABC Fire extinguisher "corrosive problem" with aluminum
Vovchandr replied to Vovchandr's topic in General Tech
Say what now? -
I'm running an old laptop for my Pectel to begin with, so that's not a problem. I know compatibility overall is a major issues. I think my injection is fine, no clue on alternator, sensors maybe still, injectors should be right but I'd like to double check the maps. Do your recall if you had any control for maps or firing control for individual injectors for each cylinder? Gutting it next...
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First gauge tubing kinked, when feeding. I realized I needed to straighten it before feeding next round so I used heatgun to get it a lot straighter. Regardless seems like a weak point to have oil running all the way into the cabin, but I need a means to an end to get a true reading so here I am. The light is k5632 but does cross to bulb you mention
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Don't know but I hope to see the needle move up a bit and be in direct ration with the revs. Old gauge barely moved during regular use and started to freak me out on the highway when it would ready 0 or near 0 for prolonged periods of time late last season. I've send the oil out to Blackstone in the meantime. Running the soft line was a huge PITA I'll say that. Maybe I should switch to some sort of braided connection is the results are good and I keep this gauge. Turns out its a very obscure light bulb. K5632. Looking at options now.
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ABC Fire extinguisher "corrosive problem" with aluminum
Vovchandr replied to Vovchandr's topic in General Tech
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There was a an aircraft mechanic that recently made a big stink on FB about regular fire extinguishers and using them on Aluminum This made me wonder and look into the matter but there is a lot involved There are ABC/AB/Element/Halon/ etc He says only Halon is allowed in aircraft use and everything else is corrosive on Aluminum and you might as well let the car burn as if you use corrosive items they will destroy the car anyway. Getting into the minutia it gets more complicated as there are many times of elements that are used in extinguishers and ABC only describes their use not their contacts or reactiveness So the summary appears to be there are these types Ammonium phosphate - wet foam sodium bicarbonate - dry chemical element - don't know Halon - safe for aviation due to Aluminum oxidation Big debate is whether the guy is over reacting or not I've reached out to to Element to hear it from the horses mouth whether they are corrosive I currently use first Alert BC one but will likely have Element on order next. Maybe dry chemical baking soda one instead?
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This appears to be the same one that just sold on Canada on BaT https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-caterham-caterham-7-csr200/
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What So SPECIAL About The CSR? The Most Special Caterham!
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Caterham 620R Adventures feat. Thunder, Snow, & Heat Stroke! | Petrol Head Tours Spain, Day 2...
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Fish and Chip Run 2023 Start At Hanley Farm Shop Chepstow Caterham and Lotus 7 Club
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Do you suffer from Upgraditis? A summary of the symptoms of this terrible condition!
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New oil pressure gauge looking good Now just have to swap the rest of lights on dash to match the brightness
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Do you still have the data log software? I also read through your very old Zetec misfire thread and that you had a map that solved that. Is that something you can share? Im clearly reaching for straws here with my misfire issues. I’ve came across a few threads with similar symptoms on forums but there hasn’t been a closed resolution to most.
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@catsv7 @DaveD either one of you still active?
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When "EFI crap brakes [sic] down" you fix it same way you fix "mechanical crap" when it brakes [sic] down. Its okay to not like it, but its not inherently worse to be using modern technology in vehicles. As far as basic drivetrain reliability modern cars are most efficient and longest lasting than ever. I for one don't want to be hand crank starting my daily driver because I'm afraid of a starter mechanism and a relay and I like to enjoy things like a digital radio and GPS navigation instead of a map to get places.
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Headlight swap is giving me headaches. The wiring that should be working as is, isn't and I'm trying to retrace what's what. The carbon fiber headlight buckets dont have a good way to secure the headlight assembly in place like the metal ones did so I'm going to end up using Sikaflex to secure the headlight to the ring and likely drill 2 or 3 holes and tap screws in there to secure them.