Vovchandr

Noted. Thanks. Current plan is to get a replacement Pectel and hope it works. If not Im also ordering a harness with it and will replace that next if Pectel swap doesn't fix. I'm impressed with your knowledge btw. I've been looking on the Internet for Crank sensor values and what's acceptable for the feed of the wire and have been finding very little to none. Going to use my power probe next to do wire testing and continuity and or resistance etc to look for breaks.

Am I overthinking how big of a job this is? Is this all in the engine bay or will I have to get under the dash? I have two options right now. Either pay for a replacement Zetec Pectel harness or proceed with my Omex ECU and Zetec harness I already have. The nest of wires seems overwhelming and leads under the dash in the loom it seems. Don't want to get into this being over my head but I could also be over thinking this. Thanks

I hope it wasn't on the last week or two! I do have the cable too, I was actually recently able to use it without the USB adapter, pluging it in directly.

I think I have one lined up but just in case seeing if anybody has one kicking around that they've moved on from. Thanks

Thanks! I think I have a lead on another one of these ancient ECUs. Between time limit and my time investment into this system and software ecosystem I'll likely try to do a plug and play. I have my tunes backed up for this ECU and the current one seems to communicate with computer. Just doesn't run the car. Noted on the alternator and the wire inspection.

My cluster works but it's aftermarket and it doesn't really respond instantly to cranking. I checked old videos too, it blanks for a few seconds and then works. Current Old start example in the beginning of video. Known good It doesn't appear I have EDIS, all my coil wires either go to under dash to I believe tech or ECU My crank wire however might have taken the blunt of the short. Voltage going to it is 0.48 on one and 0 on other and the wires look for the worse with the shielding. Crack in one too. Not sure if this is new but i don't believe it's always been like this Haven't tested resistance yet of the crank sensor

I haven't stopped, I just have very limited time to be in the garage with an infant so I try to be on point when I get out there and that happens maybe twice a week at this point. Do I need alternator to start the car or even try to fire? Fuel pump turns on and I am at 40psi on the gauge on the rail. Had to look up what EDIS is and I don't think I have it. And if I do I think it's internal to the coil. I have spare coils that I can swap over. Time is of the essence with the track day coming up. Any easily replaceable part that could be questionable or fried that can't be tested will be replaced immediately. I'm hoping it's not the ECU but I still havent figured out a good way to test it directly. Is there a way to test injectors firing without spraying fuel everywhere? If I crank it won't spark plugs I should see wet cylinders right? Is there any fuse on a Caterham thats not part of the main fuse box that I could be overlooking? ECU communicates with DeskPro to start but gives errors

I have same one and works very well and it's a nice unit. Some US dealers carry it too Time Machines is who I got mine from

I believe the flicker/dimming is from the load My battery voltage is showing 13v on tester but ECU is showing around 10v in the software which is strange I'm also getting errors in the ECU log when I try to start it with a communication failure. Not a good sign. Posted about it on the Pectel forums. As I see it now I have about 7 different paths and outcomes 1) New Lithium battery is not giving proper voltage to ECU causing problems. Test with regular. 2) I messed up the wiring by disturbing it when unplugging the ECU, fix wiring as solution 3) I blew some sort of basic fuse or else, find and replace 4) I fried the ECU by hooking up terminals backwards. Find another Pectel T2 (impossible) or get it fixed/serviced? 5) I fried the ECU, redo wiring harness and put stock Ford ECU and figure out how to make it work with ITBs 6) I fried stock ECU, commit to a better ECU and do a harness swap quick 7) I friend stock ECU, commit to swapping the Duratec that I have sitting Ill have time to do some of testing above later today or tomorrow

Tested one injector pigtail. Seems to be doing same thing. Lit up but not blinking

Just tested it. I don't think it's flashing unless the incandescent bulb is just not responding fast enough.

@ all Another year, another track day coming up, another emergency on the radar As some of you know I've got careless and was distracted and hooked up the Lithium battery backwards and my car. This was discovered when I went to turn it on and there was no sign of life and then I discovered that the Lithium battery started to go into the run away heating cycle where it was heating up faster than it could cool off.. With that danger avoided I didn't have an opportunity to test it with any other battery at the time so I ordered another one. Today a new battery came in so I went to try to start it to see what damage I did, and *drum roll* cranks but no start. I can hear the fuel pump turn on, I plugged into the ECU and the Pectel is at least alive but I've got no spark. Checked the obvious array of fuses under the dash and didn't see anything that could be related to spark other than the ECU fuse which is good. Any ideas what it could be? I have a feeling ECU works but isn't entirely functional? I'm now in a slight panic trying to get the car ready for this years track day but this seems status quo for every year. *I should note a disclaimer for the experts as I like to make things difficult. I've also messed with the ECU pigtail and unfound the 20? year old electrical tape that was covering it and unuplugged it to see if I had a spare pin available to wire in the wideband. I found out that I do not, but it's worth mentioning that the wiring loom has been disturbed.

Unfortunately none of Crocs suggestions This resonates the most with me

No sale on cars and bids 7 Carsandbids is 1 for 3 so far for Caterham sales. Not a good look in that regard.

New listing on BaT with photos by 911r This will go for good money http://links.bringatrailer.com/u/click?_t=6f9b96f87cd64db48f53cab98f02b568&_m=1e6cca9ed7a5466ea150f157d6b73c09&_e=OSd2YuUe6u1AHQ4gGGodfKuCq7VaGgn3dMfGuzvq1G_pT_Jh5kWlDplIy-21YLg4oYFbDRWYudH8DnDD6c894YyxVrY8CZCo09DVTPbPScIzFITfq9OgxYfRbC5rz9sly5xOrzIKZNZ8hjjivTobhEcAWHJiGzxFtFGVWF5Z0ug3-baPkcFEkQl6VwEtyKQ8F_TiaYRr0ZuG15Lnp59x8_5_GXeglxpAboRjVKYHelg%3D

I'd say under $20k it would be worth it No experience on Birkin specific semantics and issues. I doubt he's no reserve and has it set under $20k though. Who knows

Considering opportunity cost and uncertainty of the future, I would just buy it now, expect a minor depreciation at worst and get to enjoy something in meantime. Otherwise if prices never go back down (which is possible) you're only losing out on more and more time and use. There are people in California which have been waiting on home prices to drop for decades and there is end in sight for that.

Jesus

If you see a perfect one for you, don't be afraid to go high on it in value. It will retain the value and it will be annoying and expensive to turn another one into perfect... So technically it's cheaper to buy one to begin with. Ain't that the truth. My low mile SoCal car leaked every fluid it could and I'm still sorting things out years later. Love it though

Villa 201 secured Now time to see if my car is functional...

That would make sense. Still curious to what happened to some of the stock options that it should have such as wide track and FIA bar

Depends. Are you in California? What are you looking for in a 7? Seven is a wierd crossroads of "they are all the same" but also "they are all different" and it takes lots of time and money to source things to make them the way you want. So you're stuck between having nothing and endlessly waiting for right one to come along, or you're going with "good enough" go through the agony of fixing and changing things along the way. If a small cockpit is what you're looking for (non SV), you're in California, and performance is important the cars and bids one might be the way to go. It will likely go $35k and $40k Otherwise if you want different colors, or different history or different setup then likely wait. Difficult parts to swap and find if they matter to you - wide track suspension, colors, seats, carbon fiber parts like dash, wheels. Roll cage is expensive but somewhat easy, I swapped mine.

Good eye. Big oof. I'm also curious about the cutout and whether it was a reskin or a plug under wrap or supplied for a different model without a cut to begin with? Ive never seen a vin plate in that location but it does look clean or factory like

I haven't had a good argument online in a while, time to ruffle some feathers.

It's a peculiar car. I got curious and asked some questions