Vovchandr

No suggestion for the specific key. I would just just try to jam a pair of needle nose in there and turn it. You should have a Zetec with ITB's most likely. Take a few pictures and we can tell you some information on whether its an SVT or regular Zetec etc. Good call on tire swap. PS if you for some reason want to sell those center caps.. you have a buyer.

Oh my. You've hit the holy grail by having a center cap on those wheels still Immediate word of caution. Those tires are not safe at all. Get replacements asap. It's a light car with a lot of pep and needs all the help it can get to stick to the road. Those are ice pucks by now. I've been through the same situation as you and luckily didn't get in too much trouble. Also SLR in US is a bit of a misnomer. They are technically ordered as SLR's but they aren't truly counted as them by the official registry because they aren't assembled in the factory and have a lot more options than a true SLR would have (also the engine was never available in states). For example the spare wheel is pretty much a non option on the designated UK models but we had them sold here with them. The wheels are a true SLR gem in my opinion.

To any NY interested buyer, this is worth a lot... Wonder if I can switch my title to that...

Relevant question, does the "custom" title make it OBD2 inspection exempt for NYS?

Caterham 620S with 360 BHP speedo acceleration fast

@NSXguy that's the answer to your question. Maybe it will help somebody else as well by bumping this.

Depends what you're into. If you're into commuting, any sequential will make it a difficult experience to enjoy. However if you're out for driving the 7 for all the fanfare and drama that it provides, the sequential action and the noise it provides helps make it a full theater type experience on all your senses and all the drama that comes with it. I never use the clutchless benefit, even on the track due to the fear of shortening its lifespan further.

I truly love my old Quaife sequential and I dread the limited time span of these transmissions. I likely would switch to my backup 5 speed and not have the same experience from that point on.

https://www.topspeed.com/cars/car-news/exo-cars-diy-supercar-slayer-or-enthusiast-pipe-dream-ar197048.html Ever looked at a NA Mazda Miata and thought, "how do I make this lighter?" Every car enthusiast at some point has wondered what driving a go-kart on the street is like. You might have also heard about a growing automotive niche subculture known as "Exo Cars". The concept is simple. Take donor car, remove the entire body and build a custom tube frame chassis on top. Throw away safety, aerodynamics, and basic livability for one thing: lightness. The idea is that light cars go fast. Yet, is it that simple? Is this the magic solution that enthusiasts on a budget can consider? Will your Exo-Miata be able to keep up with a 911 GT3 because it’s a couple hundred pounds lighter? There are a lot of compromises and risks one must take to make this a reality. The true first road-worthy example of an exo-car is the Caterham Seven, first produced in 1973. Developed from the 1950’s design of Lotus Seven, this kit car is still in production today. Colin Chapman, the founder of Lotus, had a distinct philosophy for his vehicles: "Simplify. Then, add lightness." Caterham idealized Lotus’s mantra and perfected it. Those lucky enough to experience one of these cars will understand its appeal. It is about as close as you can get to the experience of riding a motorcycle while still being in a car. A direct evolution of the Caterham is the Ariel Atom. This limited-production go-kart for the street has become the standard for modern exo-car. Yet, its $80,000 starting price and six to 12-month build time make it unobtainable for most. So the question begs, what is an average enthusiast supposed to do if they want this experience? BUILT OR BOUGHT? The first question you have to ask yourself is what is the purpose of this car for you in the first place. Do you want the motorcycle experience without the associated danger? Do you plan to track it every weekend? You have too much time on your hands but still don’t have $50,000 lying around? All legitimate questions that need answering. The fact is, 99% of people who build or buy an Exo Car actually want to ride a motorcycle. Yet, certain folks aren’t willing to take the risk or gain the skills necessary for riding. So, a steel cage and seat belts quell certain demons but don’t solve everything. Anyway you look at it, there is going to have to be a compromise. It is a two-seat, open-wheel car with no storage or windows. Have you ever heard of rain? Yet, if your main concern is cost, a motorcycle is going to be the right answer almost every time. Yet, for those stubborn or scared, there are always alternatives. EXOCET OR REGRET Happen to have an NA Miata in the garage and it’s getting boring to drive? Willing to take away your already limited creature comforts for "performance?" Well, there is a solution. Welcome Exomotive Exocet. This company sells complete Exo chassis and body panels to convert your Miata into a go-kart. Chassis start from $7,999 and range up to $8,999 with full roll cages. With some powder coating and freight shipping, expect several thousand more in cost. With a four-month lead time and average build time of over 100 hours, patience and a free schedule won’t be optional. Not to mention, you’ll need special insurance and registration to even make the car legal to drive. As you can see costs can start to pile up. Will your local law enforcement also take notice of your go-kart on the street? No question. Exomotive advertises selling over 500 kits of the Exocet. This means less than 0.1-percent of available NA or NB Miata produced have seen conversion. Considering the work and time associated, we understand why. But, what about if you don’t have a Miata at all? DI-WHY? Let’s say you have your own project car that’s sitting and has been for years. You want to spice it up and cutting the roof off is the only thing that will make you happy. If you take it to any custom automotive fabrication shop, expect quotes in the tens of thousands. Do the work yourself? You’ll need to learn fabrication, welding, and design to start. That doesn’t even cover having the tools, space, and time to make it possible. Even for the savviest of garage warriors, a project like this is a multi-year adventure. Do you trust your welds in the case of an accident? Is it worth the effort and risk for you? No matter what you do, we’ll be the first to tell you that your exo-Miata will not be faster than a stock 911. It will not feel like a Shelby Cobra. Still want the visceral experience of motorcycle, but need seat belts? This Caterham Super Seven on Bring-a-Trailer has a current bid of $17,777 with 12,000 miles. Even if you paid $30,000 for the Caterham, we guarantee money well spent which will save you countless headaches. For more on the Exo Car craze, check out Quickshift Cars Youtube channel.

Rocky Mountains unit. Very nice looking car with a 620R cone A member here? Appears to be in WI Caterham 7 450HPR High Plains Edition

Nevada owner Source: Chris Honda

On the way back from this adventure everything seemed all good and well and then EMO while I'm moving. Everything off, no engine, no electric, no hazards. Carefully pull over on the momentum and begin further investigating. At first I thought that maybe my FIA cutoff switch has fallen out or failed. Started investigating and saw that my negative terminal has gone completely disconnected. Isn't the running theory that most EFI cars don't need a battery to run once started? Not sure why that would have killed the car. However, quick fix and everything recovered just in time to outrun the rain and enjoy the sights. At this point I'm starting to consider tools to be able to place the bonnet safely during troubleshooting without scratching it...

Visuals Green is the most delicious right? One of the rare times I wish I had a windshield The troublemaker caught in the act! Area of refuge You can see the crack further in the hose on the inside

Recent road tests found me on the side of the road again. (I'm genuinely not complaining, good stories to tell and I typically have tools with me to fix misc issues) As I was driving down the highway I started to see a little bit of water forming on the bonnet vents then seconds later it turned into a new feature of a car - a new windshield washer squirter has appeared! Only problems is that it was forming on the bonnet and the fluid was coolant. Pulled off the highway to discover a pinhole size hole formed on the coolant return line to the overflow and was shooting coolant a considerable distance. I thought to myself - no problem shorten in to bypass the hole and go on with my day. However once I've done that it wouldn't stop seeping past the hose clamp. Investigated further and found out that even though the hose appeared to be fine on the outside, there was a propagating deterioration crack inside. This couldn't be bypassed with the length of hose that I had remaining. Luckily a 7 attracts curious minds and a very nice gentlemen that was concerned about me broken down in the heat said he had a garage near by and he'll be right back. Brought back new hose and even clamps in case I needed them All fixed! Pictures Coated in coolant

I have a pretty small 1 car garage that fits the Caterham plus the Grom and sometimes another fullsize bike + tool box + other stuff and now kid stuff like the strollers. So I purge quite a bit. Problem is that I purge to my pole barn garage + property and just store stuff there along with the other cars.... With that said, in there I have a "wall of shame" for various mechanical failures that likely could have been avoided or just interesting. My caterham clutch failure is on there, along with failed clutch forks from the Subaru and my 6 tooth remaining rear sprocket that was left on the bike for far too long.

DESCProw.exe Attaching the current working one on modern windows if anybody wants to try it. I don't believe install is necessary but could be wrong.

I was running a very old Win98 laptop until literally today I discovered that there is a version of DeskPro that works on my modern Win 10 laptop!!! Huge breakthrough. I can actually use a laptop that doesn't require to be constantly plugged into the wall in order to work Here is a map screen shot Only sensors on my ITB setup is TPS and IAT and it uses those two to run the car. My idle setting is a bit of a wild card. My car was build with ITB's and IAC, but that's very unusual. I'm not certain IAC has been working at all nor me or the tuner knew how to make it work so we just have idle set with a butterfly stop and no vacuum rail (all plugged). I'm fine without it but if ECU is still trying to hunt for IAC but we aren't using it, it could be a problem? I'll try to figure out ignition tables next. I know tuner had a hard time finding them and not sure if he ever did.

Yes, the standard package of the unit is completely standalone. There are some rules as to how to install the bung in regards to height and angle etc but it's pretty direct. Sensors is 6 wire if I recall and goes to the guage and you give the gauge power. Depending on which ones you get they have different capabilities. I suggest something with dataloging capability. Feeding widebands into ecus actually gets a little more complicated and right now Im actually at this crossroads for that.

Shouldn't be a problem at all as long as you run it in parallel. If you're trying to replace your primary o2 with a wideband for whatever reason, that would certainly complicate things however. For parallel you can either install it post the cat into the likely existing bung of your downstream, which is what I did. You can also get a new bung installed pre cat as an alternative. @John Bthat's a clean install! Mine is nowhere near as neat and I had no idea you can have a mechanical wideband.

Thank you. I do have that zip however I also have the Offload tool zip but it's too big to be attached

I think there was a button to pull the 3D up but I haven't done it yet myself yet "dead condition" happens after a partial throttle pull, then coast then on throttle again. If I recall AFR maxes out at lowest indicated of 10 and the car stumbles for a second or two then resumes as normal. Theory is I flood cylinders out with too rich of a condition. I also go rich on throttle lift, not lean, which I always thought was strange and so did the tuner.

Got the same ones. They work pretty well Amazon or eBay are the typical sources. Aliexpress if you want a little cheaper and want to wait\ Edit: Struggling to find the ones with turn signals in them but this is a reference without those https://www.ebay.com/itm/393467890531?hash=item5b9c838b63:g:zSEAAOSwuSFiy4ow&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8EaoIaEL0cgMYMF4CuobF%2FjfefI%2BGjElQef2WODD4N%2Bz8VjlT2Sfcrnr%2BkiPAldXtwTD9VeCi5IZYxcahDBPEUlg2kpKW89LsrZ3D6%2BRVNvLuIg1qitq2o67%2BMkbDHK6mBXDbngpd3NKxPZP9E1HqYb2ZrP1oac86ATT6mtspPW2h%2Fw8fAGuKKlm%2F9JgbmpM4Y0COo2lWcRkjrELq9Oqsh0JkOueu3AnLmcbvucKWCco%2BAxfHWcrzkQMraE3pxfHnNFVyG5YaZ300tuAN2hROJBHz42Et3hqgrH2%2Fp08P7ezY9UmXvaELEU1vmDJPR22%2Bg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM3NCN0Mxg I don't use my turn signal LED's anyway as I retained the Caterham pods below headlights.

I'm on T2 but should be pretty much the same. At the type of tuning we were unable to street tune or setup logging so everything was done live and worked pretty well on the dyno. However on the street I still have some spots in the tables where the car falls flat so I'd like to mess with the AFR's against the TPS/RPM table to get those dialed in. Still trying to figure out how to log my AFR's from the AEM but that's next step once I figure out how to datalog the basics and during street tune maybe I'll be able to do on the spot without a log even? WOT pulls work pretty well right now. Some partial throttle pulls of various loads result in a "dead condition" for a few seconds once off the throttle and I think that can be dialed out. I have a very very rudimentary understanding of what I'm messing with but tuner helped explain what I'd need to do once I got things sorted out and was able to look at the data. IE If my AFR is high when the problem occurs, bring the number on the table down. If AFR is low, bring the number up. Simple enough directions for me to do.

Any other Pectel owners are active on here? I'm making more and more headway with this dated ECU and I think as a group think we can all help each other because information on it is very very limited online. Current barrier is trying to figure out datalogging. I'm not quite sure how to turn it on and review information. After spending time with the tuner the significance of datalogging to help me troubleshoot the remaining driving issues is pretty clear. If I can't sort out how to datalog with the Pectel I'll likely consider switching to a new standalone and learn how to wireharness 101. @DaveD

I'll throw a wild card alternative into the ring that I use Adhesive backed rubber Product similar to this https://www.amazon.com/DOBTIM-Adhesive-Non-Slip-Insulation-Padding/dp/B08Y7N9652/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=adhesive+backed+rubber&qid=1659536994&sr=8-3 I just rolled out the sheets and stuck them inside the wheel wells and don't drive in the rain (although I think they would survive just fine if needed) Helps with noise and damage.