Vovchandr

Very good breakdown and useful info. What's your opinion on Element extinguishers? First Alert Fesa5 isn't "A" rated I assume?

I plotted mine against all those others for fun...

Here is a detailed one for the SVT blue one labeled as "Doug" (2nd down on the list) Very similar to the other one posted above Zetec SVT Engine with Jenvey throttle bodies. 176hp at wheels

Came across this graph on old California Dyno thread Very interesting to see a bunch of different Zetecs (and 2 Duratecs, 1 being a 2.3) layed against one another with different setups. Picture was very low resolution so I did the best I could with deciphering it. All but a few like the yllow one are very close to each other. Yellow being a stock ZX3 motor with no ITB's or Cams. The difference is pretty clear. This is a detailed map for the orange "MoPho" one above. About 170hp

Do you have a part # on the injectors to double check the impedance?

Element got back to me "Thank you for taking the time to contact us. The extinguishing agent your friend is referring to is Halon/Halotron which is considered to be a 100% clean extinguishing agent. In an aviation setting, an ABC extinguisher should indeed be avoided since it produces a highly corrosive powder that is almost impossible to remove entirely, is very damaging to metal alloys and electronics, and which can cause terminal damage if it gets into an engine. We are European vintage car guys here and one of the main reasons we got involved with this product is because we wanted an alternative to the ABC extinguishers that are commonly in use in the classic car world. The majority of fires that can be tackled by a car owner are small and an ABC extinguisher, most of the time, ends up doing much more damage than the fire itself. Our extinguisher utilizes a ‘clean’ extinguishing chemistry that leaves virtually no secondary residue. A light blast with compressed air is normally sufficient to remove anything that remains after a fire is out. Hope this addresses your concerns." Good info

Full disclosure. The particles could very likely be from my Accusump grenadining on the track day or the head gasket change/poking around with metal on cams and/or crack in the cam alignment tab when I left the alignment bar on but kept turning motor... I don't expect them to be high next round.

makes you feel all warm and fuzzy

Also Blackstone lab report some of you guys are geeky enough to be interested in this High iron use. Silicon could be from the headgasket change/valve cover silicon on corners of gasket. .

Bye 😺 Nice to know ya

Thank you. I never liked the stock assembly look on the US cars and my original pod housing cracked so replacement was in order either way. Even the circuit board bulb housing on original is tied to the smaller housing and doesn't make an easy/weather proof transplant to the UK sizes lenses. I think at this moment I'll wire this up without a DRL option just to put everything back together and revisit this in the future with the suggestions listed above. Why do you find bulbs better than pop in LEDs? I've already swapped the electronic flasher as I recall because I have JAL tails. Thanks for advice on diode/resistor assembly.

That does seem useful and relevant! Thank you

Fun fact behind that is that we are used to our view of ourselves in the mirror so this makes selfie images more tolerable to our monkey brains. "real images" look uncanny. Double fun fact. Things like WebEx mirror the camera for your picture on your screen by default but sends "true" unmirrored image to everybody else seeing you.

Alright the more I look into it, the more I find that almost all LED are two wire. Am I missing something here? Can a two wire LED be wired to be a DRL with a constant 12v and he a repeater with a turn signal input?

I figured it out. I need a 3 wire LED front turn signal to make this work properly. I connected back the old 3 wire bulb and it works as expected.

Cat 😺 is going bye bye this week. I think it's clogged worse than I even thought. The engine is struggling to crank over with the exhaust on while I'm trying to troubleshoot it and compression test it.

Thanks. I'll look into that. Prepping all the carbon bits for Sika flex with Sika primer. CSR fenders, wishbones aero, CF headlight buckets rings. Couldn't figure out any good way to secure headlights in the CF bucket rings so just going to Sika them in there. Should work.

I have a hodge podge of wiring going on with the headlights right now. I should have all the wiring sorted out except I can't figure out what is the wiring combo that makes front blinkers light up during the first click of the headlight switch, which leaves headlights off, but turns taillights on and DRLs on if you have them. Correct me if I'm wrong but the turning signals on the front should glow amber during this mode? If not that solves all my problems. Also I don't have an amber light in the fender. I'm also converting to LED front lights, which are two wire. I believe the stock lights have a 3 wire setup. I have sourced my power for "DRL/taillight" power on the front. Headlights also work as needed. Blinkers and hazards work as proper. Just can't sort out the combo to have them stay on when you click on DRL/taillight with first click of headlight switch.

Selfie mode on the camera mirrors the image unless you set it not to do so. You can see speedometer being mirrored too

last use of it by me is April 17

So what I'm gathering so far is that the Element one is likely a reasonable alternative right now

Say what now?

I'm running an old laptop for my Pectel to begin with, so that's not a problem. I know compatibility overall is a major issues. I think my injection is fine, no clue on alternator, sensors maybe still, injectors should be right but I'd like to double check the maps. Do your recall if you had any control for maps or firing control for individual injectors for each cylinder? Gutting it next...

First gauge tubing kinked, when feeding. I realized I needed to straighten it before feeding next round so I used heatgun to get it a lot straighter. Regardless seems like a weak point to have oil running all the way into the cabin, but I need a means to an end to get a true reading so here I am. The light is k5632 but does cross to bulb you mention