Vovchandr

I see what you mean. Didn’t see any obvious contact patch issues on the intake. did find this small blemish on exhaust on Cyl1

Gave WebCams a call today and it was mildly helpful but not resolute. They asked me if there was anything hand written or any obvious identifiers on the cam (their logo is hand written), and I told them no. Only somewhat unique thing I could see was 260E stamped on the back of the camshaft. She said she has something for that and confirmed that it would be intake only and send me a file on that. She also couldn't confirm anything with certainty but she said if there was a cutout in the back to match the other one then they should be zero'ed out in time of install and then adjusted from there and I could give them a call then with any further questions. So the desired certainty isn't there but it's something. As far as the plan to proceed I'm still pending a dial indicator but also do I need the timing degree wheel to dial in the current camshaft position? I see what you mean about uncertainty on the comment for the 5 degree adjustment as well. So far I still have no idea why my cam's don't match position wise. If both were adjusted 5 degrees they should both still match to each other. Unless I jumped timing? That's also quite unlikely. I'll figure out a way to find the slot angle before proceeding in case I have to recreate this current angle. Wasn't a head gasket fix supposed to be pretty straight forward?

Everything free spins and operates smoothly other than force needed varying slightly as if it's fighting compression and then release, I assume coming from the valve train springs as the plugs are out.

Top sorted car. Looks like you knew exactly what you wanted and build it as such. Lots of subtle mods that might not be obvious but make a big difference. JAL tails, carbon blocks and black bonnet latches in particular. I'm sure this will go well. Endless carbon parts make me giddy. also side note, jealous of everybody who gets those wheels to fit somehow

I think the light and reflections are playing tricks on you guys. There is no obvious or marring other than the broken ear me mentioned earlier. Everything appears more or less staining. Nothing I can catch with a finger nail The lobes are very shiny where they make contact and there are dull spots in the vicinity

This should be a sticky in FAQ in regards to 7's with Tillett seats.

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I see. For what it's worth the cams are smooth to finger/nail. Not sure if metal can be discolored without damage however.

McLaren 570 GT vs Caterham 620R LEGOCAT

Looks familiar @Brightonuk

Metal is discolored. Wasn't able to wipe anything off. Hard to distinguish what is junk and what isn't now-a-days. I just assume that unless I'm paying an extreme premium for misc random items, it all comes from the same place with different labels. https://www.amazon.com/All-Industrial-Tool-Supply-TR72020/dp/B002YPHT76/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=tdc+dial+gauge&qid=1626559515&s=industrial&sr=1-5 ?

The dark black marks? Thats burnished? (whatever that means). oil is light brown film you can see in areas. Working on getting a dial indicator as we speak. Deciding between digital and mechanical. I'll keep the bolts in mind

Hi. Thanks for the manual. I have the tool already, just didn't expect my motor to be more complicated than just putting both cams aligned with the tool. Since they are misaligned now I'll have to recreate that after the swap over

Thanks for tuning in! Small update. Appears the broken ear isn't very uncommon. Was likely done while manually maneuvering it during install back in the day. The strange lobe cutaway is also par for the course and was done on purpose during engineering and balancing. Pending a consult with the WebCamshaft company when they are open Monday. Regardless general course of action at this time will be to Zero out on the exhaust with the metal locking tool, measure the degree of difference from that on the intake, assemble everything at 0 on the notch on both cams, then dial in the measured angle. This should also account for the 5 degree advance noted in the tune for both intake and exhaust.

The muted logo on the intake cam Should this be a concern on the intake cam? Sort of looks like a piece is missing Also the lobe on cylinder 2 is strange? Every other lobe has an even piece cut out on the back side of it. This one the cut out is "interrupted" where it goes back to being normal lobe and then finishes where it's supposed to when. Lobe next to it is a good comparison another angle

This got more complicated than expected pretty quick Intake cam says "260 e" on the end and I don't see any other useful identifiers on it. There looks to be a vague "Ford" oval cast on it as well. According to the build log it has a "Fast road cam" for $425, which I assume is the intake cam. Amusingly the engine builder billed for 2 headgaskets during the build. Also there is an old note in the build sheet about "Install, shim, degree and Dyno 3 cam combinations. Map ECU for 3 Cam combinations". Not exactly sure what that means in the real world but I only see one map/profile on the ECU. Regardless of what cam is in there, without adjustable cam gears shouldn't both cams be matched and even in the rear end and any timing adjustments would be done in the ECU instead of mechanically? I think you're spot on. Stock exhaust and new "Fast road" cam which appears could have been made by a few manufacturers. 260 degree according to the 260 stamped on the back of it. Only other numbers on the cam I see all seem generic "L193B" (on both) and YSAA on the back of it & "1 0 H 9" in circles across the whole thing. The car should have only had one original tune that you see from the original build or soon after it. From the history I know and from the 2002 time stamp on the tune, nobody else has messed with it. Not releasing the belt yet as you advice. More digging and tooling to do prior to that. Honestly at this point I didn't expect to be doing more research and dial/lobe etc measurements. I expected this to be more straight forward.

Started the tear down today. First time lifting a head by myself. Ran into a few small bumps. 1) I rarely run into this problem but I apparently dont own enough tools. Didn't expert Ford to use inverse torx head shaped bolts. 2) From what I've researched my cams would need to be lined up at the end of this jobs and I bought the simple tool for it. However my cams aren't lined up to begin with? Do I try to replicate that or do I zero them out and make them match? I dont have stock cams Here is the cam timing comment on the ECU I should also mention that I'm swapping over to adjustable cam gears I've purchased during all this per Toms @1turbofocus advice 3) found a minor defect in the head. Tiny collapse of a mold. Not sure if always there or not. Not too concerned but found it interesting. I think the crank nut is going to be a challenge without having air tools on hand. I've heard of people using a starter but I'm reactant to do that. vs

For the record let me amend my statement. When I say "what I have" I meant, what I came across online from somebody else. I actually haven't done my alignment yet but I would have followed the two references I gave you myself. I have those printed as my guide myself.

@CarlBWas going to reply to this earlier but forgot Here is what I have " Core components Year 2002 imperial chassis with widetrack and K Series (140-145hp estimated), 6 speed box, 3.92 ZF LSD Powerflex polyurethane bushes everywhere Nitron dampers by Meteor Motorsport, re-valved early 2016, with Eibach springs Setup Weight (without driver): 520kg with approx. 20 litres of fuel, two thirds of a tank Total weight: 580kg (yes I need to eat more pies) Corner weights are set to equal diagonals which I prefer over equal fronts. Front left: 128kg Front right: 136kg Rear left: 154kg Rear right: 162kg Ride heights (probably not a lot of value since I'm not sure where they're measured from) Front left: 118mm Front right: 118mm Rear left: 134mm Rear right: 132mm Average rake: 15mm Geometry Caster: 7.2-7.4 (full forward on wishbones) Front camber: -2.7 (I might increase this for track - one turn of the ball joint should be worth approx. 0.3 degrees) Rear camber: -1.4 Front toe: 2mm in each side (this is for road only, I change to 2-3mm toe-out for track) Rear toe: 2mm in each side All of the above was with virtually new Avon ZZR tyres (185/55/13 front, 215/55/13 rear) set to 17.5psi Tyre pressures: 20psi starting/cold pressure (all round) Front roll bar: blue (9/16") Rear roll bar: +2 (0 being disconnected, 4 being stiffest) Radius arms set to lower position Front springs: 225lb/in Rear springs: 150lb/in (plus 4lb/in helper springs) Front dampers: -8 from full hard Rear dampers: -6 from full hard" And this from the assembly manual

Thank you for the measurement. That confirms that my fenders are simply too narrow. That would have been me! He's interested when I emailed him but he doesn't like to travel for reviews since he moved to CA unless its for something extreme (IE the Triple F collection) However since he started the new site he does go out of his way if he can kill two birds with one stone from what I've observed and does occasionally travel. Can't be certain if he's too big or not. Likely feet would be too large even if he fits length wise.

@Lucky-7 You don't happen to denote the offset on these wheels? If you have an opportunity in the future could you take note of what yours are? I assume they are ET13 like mine. It says it right on the spoke and you can read it without taking the wheel off as long as the rotation doesn't hide it under the fender (I just checked) Thanks!

Oh I'm convinced I got problems alright. The cat is pending an operation of non destructive strategic removal in the future. I'm not actively trying to destroy it but I'm also not overly concerned. On this recent test I was watching the cylinders with a thermal gun. As I recall #2 was lagging a little compared to the rest before the gun maxed out. As far as your simile, isn't part of the strategy denial despite evidence and continuing to plow forward? My phone has conveniently brought up memory videos of "on this day last year" when I was recording doing coolant flush/purge of brownish coolant and non stop air was coming up during. I'm fairly certain the car had these problems during my entire ownership experience which would explain a lot.

I also have a wild card alternative if you're even considering an auction site like BaT. You can reach out to Doug Demuro @ Cars&Bids and there is a good chance he would do a custom review for your 7 auction. He hasn't reviewed a 7 yet for his channel and he seems to be willing to travel to do reviews for cars that will be listed on Cars&Bids as it kills two birds with one stone. There has not been a Caterham listed on his website yet. You'd be the first. He likes minty stock cars of highest trim. Since 620R is hard to come by and the rest of trims are very similar with few options, it could come to fruition. If he does such a review, your listing would be timed with the release of your video and get the most views on it. Here is an example (time stamped to announcement of listing) One caveat even IF this whole thing would come together is that it would likely be at least a month + out to fit into his video release rotation. If you're looking for something quicker regular auctions and listings would work.

Appears I wasn’t crazy that my cat converter was running hotter than normal looks to me like a permanent discoloration right around it. Surprisingly to me my plugs on vacuum runners on cyl #1 and #2 got blown off my backfire from the cylinder head. One while driving. Second once parked and troubleshooting. It was a very unsettling noise coming from the car when the first one blew off and caused an open lean condition. finally ran the system with the pressurized cap in place and watched for air. There appears to be a constant steam of very small bubbles going through the system at any point in time. A little hard to see but you can see them at around 45 seconds in the video, 1:17 and other times