Vovchandr

Updating the blinkers Borrowed tow rig

Thanks @JohnCh renewed Also discovered that my blinker pod failed in transport, so finally time to swap over to the CF ones. That wiring with no connectors is always a huge pita to undertake. Debated on also swapping over to lower headlights mounts, but realized that I need to drop the sway bar and wasn't willing to get into it just yet During tuning...

Updates: Out with the yellow, in with the red! On a more serious note, finally got the car on a dyno to find out that I have a very under performing motor. After getting everything dialed in, I was at about 140 horse on my "200hp" package with the headwork, cam work, ITB's etc. About 20hp is missing somewhere. Compression is strong, everything else checks out. Car is faster than ever on the top end but stops building power after 6k. That means that likely up until this point car was under 100hp before tune and sorting out issues.

I'm not disagreeing with the selling price. I'm disagreeing with the actions that lead up to it. They are certainly not normal if you look at the vast majority of the auctions which tend to follow a slow creep approach until somebody is out of budget and then you edge past him. Bidding $16k over last bidding price isn't normal.

One of the bidders (not a winner) just won an Atom. Bidding was upto $56k or so. He comes in and bids nearly $20k over that and wins it. He wasn't even in the running upto that point. Who. Who does that?

Can You Daily Drive a Caterham 7? 5 things you should know!

The World’s Thinnest Tyres Make Cars MUCH More Fun

This? https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other-grommets/241-seatbelt-blanking-cap-17mm-shoulder-mounts.html?search_query=cap&results=127

Small updates. In the search for unobtanium center caps for SLR wheels I had a friend 3D print a test Came out pretty good but it's not perfect yet. Also mocked up lower wishbone aero and it's hitting the shock... So that's another dilemma.

Caterham 620S - The Fastest Car I've Driven - 4K

THIS 500HP CATERHAM 620R IS SO FAST IT SHOULD BE ILLEGAL!!!

Steve Becker 518-372-1561 They had to relay to central office where there is a guy who's familiar with Caterhams or 7's type cars, but either way it becomes an agreed value policy so I'm not even sure if their knowledge of the vehicle matters that much as long as it's within realm of realism of what the car should be valued at. Maybe thats why they need the expert?

I use state farm agreed value. It's about $100 a month, but then goes down to $50 a month for winter months. Hagerty was about the same.

From my very limited experience. Pull out together, use an adjustable leveler to help angle on the way up.

Does it come in an R250 trim?

I routed mine underneath, past the tranny, going into the main wiring hole in the center arm rest. It wasn't an easy task to get it through. Also I haven't welded the bung just yet but actually used the rear o2 bung for my wideband. It being past the cat skews the ratings but still gives a good ballpark. From what I've been told values would be off by .5 to 1 which is close enough for me to have an idea of whats happening. Currently planning to remove the cat anyway. Using the rear achieves a cleaner look

Thank you for the info about the temp sensor. I'll look into that. I'm not planning on taking a belt back off but I understand what you're saying. That's what happened when I took it off the first time and haven't measured the "current operating position" before they snapped out of that position once the cam was removed. I'm thinking of using the picture above to try to replicate the last operating position that is different from the "0" position that I have put everything back together on, to hopefully make it run better. Just reluctant to mess with timing. The thought is, if it's non interference I have little to risk and I might as well put the adjustable cam gears to use and maybe even learn something.

Compression used to be much better before the head gasket change, but I'm pretty sure it was at least done on warm engine last time. I'm not sure what you mean about cams "resting"? As far as Coolant Temps Sensors and temp charts I'm not sure how to proceed with that. I don't believe my ecu provides any temp charts.

Not yet. It's been in my shopping cart. Mike make the jump now, even though it seems backordered on the site.

So I've done a quick dry/cold compression test and got (front to back ) 150/150/180/180. Peculiar. Still have yet to do wet/warm test and leakdown test. Also question for the experts. Am I crazy to try to rotate the cams to match what they looked like before I changed the headgasket as seen in the picture above? Due to the backfiring I can assume the exhaust might be fine so I'll set that as a 0 and rotate the intake alone? Maybe rotate both towards each other slightly? I know nothing about messing with timing but still no luck finding anybody who's willing to take this on. I should be non interference so thinking of trying a wild card in meantime. Any advice? I'm essentially trying to dial in physical cam positions to whatever the ECU would be mapped to right (if the engine is out of sync with ecu right now?)

If anybody is on the fence purchasing you can use ADV 15% discount to get a battery ADV Rider Discount! Save 15% now thru 6/15/22 on all Antigravity Batteries products using coupon ADVRIDER at checkout! https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/?utm_source=advrider&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=may_2022&utm_content=shop_btn

tail of the dragon! halfway through our 2,000 mile road trip. part 2 of 3(?) Fairly certain he's a member but can't think of the name/find the intro thread or post. Tag if you remember.