Vovchandr

I have a set of 3D printed ones but I'm not entirely happy with them. They didn't leave an opening for the center caps of the center caps to plug into and when I was was modifying them to fit... I broke one of the "snap legs" of the center center caps. Ironically those are no longer available for ordering either, so I might have to 3D print/make a set of those as well. Thanks for getting back to me, it's unlikely that the gentleman would be able to find me a set of those as well. I was hoping that the big 16in wheels that the Caterham came with that had a very similar style center cap would fit, but I found out that they are actually different. Look the same but are bigger and wouldn't fit. They are more common overall.

@Brightonuk Not to keep beating the dead horse of the center caps discussion but I think it's fair to assume you won't be active on the forums much after the liquidation. I see that years ago you didn't have them and were looking for them on the UK Forums and then you found them somewhere? Was this just a lucky purchase or did you have them made? Thanks.

I wonder if they will keep the looks identical or put a twist/accent here and there to make it stand out. Obviously the radiator opening will be redundant but I'm sure they will keep it. Other vents in the bonnet will not be necessary but are a part of the look. With one or two rear motors going into the back the entire engine bay will be for batteries and other controls. There will also no longer be a need for a transmission/drive shaft tunnel but I doubt they would remove that as it's part of the cockpit character. Should be interesting anyway So what's peoples opinion? Should they keep it looking as identical as possible but be EV or actually have some distinctive characteristics to separate it?

Looks like Caterham just announced an electric model for 2023 https://www.pistonheads.com/news/electric-vehicles/all-electric-caterham-seven-promised/44149?fbclid=IwAR3uDA_erAiYSeDEAd9MZio2AC0qxMNsszO7U7Pc09RygB11hq7jvIi7xnY

Caterham R400 SV - Following a 911 GT3 RS at Oulton Park

Congrats. Enjoy. Garage looks amazing

It does have an electrical connector. The old ones and the new ones are set to be fully closed at 0 throttle. I believe that's intentional, but I'm not certain how would they expect these to work as is if IAC is not a standard setup. Then again maybe they adjusted them to be closed for me knowing that I have an IAC setup. Maybe there is a handshake disagreement between when there is TPS is reading not quite 0 due to throttle sticking and ECU is sending signal for IAC to feed air? Either way I should be able to get further this weekend and going into next week. I'll get the ECU connected and partition more of the issue out.

I missed @ashyers reply earlier and have a plan of attack 1) I will video the situation to better show case what's happening 2) My throttle cable and housing are brand new just installed, but still will eliminate them from equation 3) I will potentially try to eliminate IAC either temporarily or permanently. As I understand it I have two ways currently. Either restrict the disconnected IAC vacuum chamber that goes to the runners to imitate the amount of air slightly open ITB's would produce, or plug it entirely and tune ITB's to be partially open at idle. I'm still not certain what sends input to IAC to start doing its thing. Is it active ECU controlled or passive response to vacuum? From what I briefly read online and seen on other models, most ITB setups do not utilize IACs. Notes: Yes if the engine is revving and I push the throttle linkage into closed position by slight force, it brings it back down. I've added another spring right now to the throttle returns to give them some physical persuasion to close shut With the IAC disconnected the engine revs quite high due to unrestricted air intake. If I partially plug it with finger it controls it to some degree.

John. Those are the two screws that rule all the throttle bodies Max and min. I have left those alone so far and only adjusted the throttle cable on the bottom. I get it to the tension where the car idles without an issue in as is condition. There is a hollow rod with a nut which stops the cable shield on the one side. Turning that in or out adjust the tension enough to keep idle. Should I not be doing that? Should I be using the idle screw on ITB's? Maybe this is the source of my issues. However this is exactly what I did in my previous years of ownership and before rebuild and it ran fine for a while like that as well with just adjusting the cable. Ran fun that is... until it didn't. I could try to mess with the isle screw and see what happens. I'll try to find the "0" setting on it to go back to if needed.

You are correct in that IAC feeds the runners past the TB. Borla/TWM told me this is unusual and not standard. I told them to please recreate it as it has worked for me in the past and I can always plug them if needed in the future. Borla also told me they sync'ed the throttle bodies to the best of their ability but they might need some adjustments. Yes they all rotate at the same time with only one adjuster for WOT/Idle on the 2nd runner (in the picture above). The heim connections is where individual adjustments would be made. It doesn't bother me personally. Theoretically I'd start with the one furthest out and then go inwards to the first linkage. Syncing them at idle? No idea, plug IAC feed? I'm far from an expert on ITB's. Likely source of my problems. I still have no idea how IAC works and interacts with ITBs as it sits. People not having IAC on their setups was a huge surprise to me, I thought it'd be standard.

That's a thought. I was in a mindset that once I'd remove it I'd never put it back in. It seems a mild job at an hour and a half or so from what I've quickly found. Certainly not something that has to be permanent but as we all know any under the scuttle work is far harder than it has any right to be.

Debating on removing the wiper motor assembly. I almost never use the windshield (aero setup) and from what I hear the wipers don't do a whole lot even when they are needed. I'd likely have the windshield covered with RainX and hope to avoid the rain. Anybody use theirs? Anybody regret removing theirs? Whats the weight savings?

I can try to datalog again. I had limited success in the past due to the dedicated 1998 computer that's required to run the software for Pectel. I recall I had success with live readings but not datalogging overall. I've just read through a 15 page thread of people with Omex ITB's on F20 motors in other 7's with a eerie similar issue of sticky throttle that they couldn't narrow down at all for multiple people https://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/topic/119831-megas-s2000-omex-throttle-bodies-throttle-cable/page/15/ One of the black holes I have in my troubleshooting is IAC and TPS. There was one post talking about the TPS Zero/auto zero and another as such I have unplugged the IAC at the sensor and unplugged the air lead entirely to see if it still sticks. It does I have brand new throttle cable and shield for it to eliminate possibility of that causing hanging It used to do it primarily warm/hot now it's doing it dead cold at startup. I'll take the video tomorrow when I'm not waking up the neighbors with a loud revving 7

Outgassing of the new wrap was pretty serious. Had to quickly Google it to see that it's expected and normal. Got the car started. Good news. Rebuild FPR is at 40psi! Bad news. sticky/Runaway throttle/rev hang issue is still present. Quite disappointed that the rebuilt ITBs with the dual spring return and brand new throttle cable didn't resolve it. I'm sure it's something stupid too but I'm running out of ideas. Unfortunately it's not safe to drive in this condition.

Anecdotally found this online Not sure what that's based on or what the implications are

Unfortunately the outcome for passengers was not positive https://www.br.de/nachrichten/bayern/toedlicher-unfall-mit-englischem-sportwagen-bei-uffing,S4Whtux Translated https://rt5aydsaz2m52md7arjp5y3ntu-ac5fdsxevxq4s5y-www-br-de.translate.goog/nachrichten/bayern/toedlicher-unfall-mit-englischem-sportwagen-bei-uffing,S4Whtux I'm still fairly certain the 7 is safer than a motorcycle but between my vehicles of a CRX/Miata and the 7, I do feel a lot more comfortable safety wise in the Volvo vs the tin boxes around all the trucks and SUV's.

Beautiful car. Surprised to hear Sb100 gave you a denial like that. This might have been recent? I've heard of other owners having luck I'd recommend using the californiacaterhamclub forum to get ideas and suggestions. Forum isn't active but proper search will probably reveal a lot of good info on topic. Worst case scenario you might have to go the Montana route at least to get car on the road while figuring things out. It's not ideal, or recommended but it might be a necessary means to an end while fighting bureaucracy. This link should set you up with a pretty good sweep of their website for keyword of SB100. Again if something has changed within CA DMV these methods may no longer be relevant. https://www.google.com/search?q=california+caterham+club+sb100+site:www.californiacaterhamclub.com&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS883US883&sxsrf=ALeKk0035Ojlwcv6OJQYTOshYltSw3cizw:1620673658565&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjxjtzt57_wAhXQElkFHX2ADwgQrQIoA3oECAUQBA&biw=1691&bih=786

I'm assuming this is a square wheel setup and not a staggered?