SENC

Studs and AN jet nuts made the job a good deal easier. The only tough ones were the outer ones between the intake manifolds and the outer exhaust manifolds - can't get a socket in there. I ground the lobes off an extra 3/8" wrench and that worked perfectly - though those locations are the easiest for the allen key to reach so the ideal solution might be to retain those bolts and just use studs/nuts elsewhere. Got the carbs reinstalled today - hopefully will get it running later in the week to check for leaks.

From memory, the radiator needs to come out. The engine will just barely clear the crossbar behind it (cut and slit a piece of hose to cover and protect it and electrical wires running along it). I don't remember if the others are necessary or if they were just as easy to remove first.

Not exact, but as I recall the fork/arm fulcrum is near the center of the fork so probably not far from 1:1. I'll have to see if I have a cross-section diagram somewhere. What's driving my suspicion is that he's getting clutch disengagement (at least when cold) so he's got enough travel occurring unless something is shifting. I'm just not sure lack of an adaptor or incorrect bearing is going to be variable or cause shifting. I could certainly be wrong, and it could be that he's right at the limit of tolerances - but after going back through pictures during my disassembly and rebuild I'm confident I don't have an adaptor though the DBE catalogue suggests I should, and I'm not having any issue with clutch disengagement. Fractured or weak fork/arm could be possible, though I'd think that would get progressively worse and not recover when cold. Weak pressure plate springs I guess could get worse with heat- perhaps? Or possibly a point of wear at the fingers/platen/bearing that finds it's place when running? I'd also wonder about the spigot bearing and the possibility it has fully or partially frozen or become damaged and transmitting rotation from engine to input shaft. Not sure why that would only reveal when leaning on the shifter though - unless internal wear/end float is allowing forward pressure, too. Will be interesting to see what you find when you pull it. Yes, you need to remove the remote. I'll attach a removal sequence I made when I removed mine for the first time. Definitely check the spigot bearing as well as the tailshaft extension bearing and seal - these are common wear/failure items. I'd also at least open up the top of the gearbox for inspection of gear selectors and bulk rings (I think you can estimate baulk ring wear based on where they sit relative to synchronizers or gears, but I'll have to go back through my notes on that).SevenEngineOut.docx

Though I follow your logic, I think this is may not be the issue. There is enough "swing room" for the clutch fork that it could easily take up that difference, and once the slave rod is adjusted to the fork it should have essentially the same lift at the release bearing. I suspect the adaptor and matching the release bearing to clutch type has as much to do with preventing premature failure of the bearing and/or damage to the bearing or fingers. As he's not hearing bearing or other noise in the bellhousing, I suspect that isn't the issue. The more I think about the primary symptoms of difficulty getting gears, the more I wonder about baulk ring wear and/or weak blocker springs - which combine to "brake" the shaft speed to match engine speed for smooth gear changes - or gear selector wear. Both brass items designed to wear before damaging gears. I think it was worth trying to eliminate clutch hydraulics to try to resolve before pulling the engine and gearbox - but the symptoms described seem to me to more likely point to gearbox rather than clutch. TEM - the good news is that pulling these from the Seven is a good deal easier than doing so from the Elan - but as with the Elan be sure to empty the gearbox of oil or you'll have a heckuva mess!

There's only 1 reason I park on the grass.

Yep that's the main point. There was a time when you needed special chargers for each battery type, but these days they're almost all "smart" and capable of charging flooded, agm, and gel alike (theyre all lead acid) - and a growing number also handle lithium. It's easy to get a lot invested in ancillary stuff like this that adds little value. Inexpensive maintainers are readily available (deltran, noko, ctek, etc) and perfect for keeping multiple battery types of multiple low use cars in good shape. IMO, unnecessary for cars that are actually used every few weeks (unless that usage is limited to short, in-town type trips) - but cheap insurance if a vehicle goes unused for a long period or is only used for short drives. Keep them topped up and healthy and you prolong their life and never really need a jump/booster or a true charger.

You're overthinking it, Randy (imo) - treat it like your Miatas. It really isn't any different. I think the only thing to watch out for is the old battery chargers - most of the ones available now handle agm and traditional batteries just fine. Though I have a high end charger/maintainer - for the purpose you're describing I have an inexpensive battery tender maintainer. I rotate it between my Seven, Elan, and 560SL, switching every couple weeks if I for some reason I'm not driving one or the other.

Dry fit today and pretty confident it will work, as long as the studs used are less than 1.5" long. AN jet nuts only require a 3/8 socket or wrench and it appears I can just fit those in. I'm waiting on gaskets - will likely be late next week before I get back to it and can officially confirm, but feeling good about it after testing.

You'll need an adaptor like this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/276306378622?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=276306378622&targetid=1645685074288&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9010076&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685074288&abcId=9312979&merchantid=6481494&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwjqWzBhAqEiwAQmtgT14ddC4Lq5zxKU9JJdwuQqcw_Yk-0PmZ8cwOyi3l2BpIdXOi5jyaBxoCOdEQAvD_BwE I agree with JBCollier's recommendation.

I just took mine back off to deal with an exhaust leak at the head. I use a long allen key with the short side cut down to about a 1/2". Carbs off first. Loosen the 2 middle bolts, then 2 on the outside of the intake manifolds. You may have to work back and forth. You'll get to the point that you can angle each intake manifold out (way from each other). This will be the reverse of the way you'll put them back. I'm planning to try going back with studs and jet nuts- will let you know if successful.

If not, let me know. I seem to recall having a second copy at some point and happy to look around to see if I can find it. It is a great resource.

And an application chart from the same catalogue indicating the various combinations...

Was looking through an old DBE catalogue for something and took a peek at the clutch section while there. Adding pictures of a couple pages. Of note, indication that pushrod engines used a 3/4" MC (matching the Girling information but contradicting the Lotus parts manual) and a description of the different bearing carriers/hubs - and the spacer MV8 refers to. There is a specific note indicating there are actually several different sizes. I don't remember seeing this anywhere else, and have to admit I don't recall which carrier I used rebuilding mine - time to go look through rebuild pictures for a clue!

There isn't a spacer for the release bearing beyond the carrier - but your line of thinking does bring a couple possibilities to mind... As this car was used for racing, could it have been fitted with a larger 8.25" clutch? These were standard, I think, on Elan plus 2s so should have been a fairly straightforward way to get a larger clutch in place. The biggest difference (other than diameter) is that these didn't have a thrust plate on the fingers and required a different, rounded/domed release bearing. Perhaps the wrong release bearing was used? You may be able to identify the clutch bearing type and whether a thrust plate is on thw clutch fingers via boroscope. Additionally, there was a different sized bearing carrier that was used in some plus 2s (5-speed, I think), so perhaps something got mixed up in a prior rebuild? Another possibility is that the fork itself is getting weak and flexing.

And this is only happening when the engine is running? Easy gear movements when not running, colf or hot? I suspect you're getting closer to few options but to pull the engine and gearbox for a look. Have you changed the gearbox oil? How'd the old oil look? If you haven't, I'd drain it and put in some Redline MTL - that definitely made a notable difference for mine.

Agree that ensuring it was fully seated should yield the same end result if you have enough adjustment room on the rod. Regarding setting the rod/dome nut versus the clutch lever - as I recall that process includes manually holding the lever rearward (away from the slave) and setting the gap (without the spring in place). Is that what you did?

I'll have to measure the mount on the bellhousings of my Seven and Elan - thinking it is also possible the mounts on earlier bellhousings were shorter in length.

A quick search in my files didn't yield anything about the washer but the Seven owners manual does indicate there should be 2 circlips. On a previous note while checking the Lotus Seven Parts manual, I notice it refers to the clutch master being 5/8" - contradicting the 3/4 listed in the Girling catalog and other places.

I first reinstalled without it (unintentionally), and noticed the pressure on the rod forced the circlip up snug against the mount on the bellhousing, leaving a gap on the front side. The space took up that slack, effectively locking the slave cylinder in a rearward position. I'd have to measure it to see how thick it is and how much it actually impacts it, but estimate about 1/16. I feel like I've seen a reference to it, but will have to look around to see if I can find it. I don't remember it, either, on my Elan, but may have had a thicker circlip.

Do you have the spacer/washer in behind the circlip on the slave, to ensure it is positioned (and remains positioned under pressure) correctly? If not, you're losing about a 16th of an inch. Enough?

Put a flashlight in the rams then open/close the throttle and you'll be able to see them.

Yep, one of the frustrating things about old Lotus - always lots of conflicting evidence - and evidence that they really did frequently stick whatever they had on these cars! Bottom line, I think either work for both brake and clutch, just require different pressure and different pedal strokes. Don't feel to bad, I had exactly the same thing happen, though I was on the road taking an initial test drive after getting everything back together. Mine was due to slightly missing on the setup of the dome nut, which allowed the piston too far forward when I fully depressed the clutch. I was only about a mile from home and had my son pick me up to get some tools and a spare slave cylinder I had. It was a royal PIA to get the stuck slave out (I had to cut the rod, too) and a new one in and adjusted on the side of the road. But I was thankful it wasn't my Elan.

Since you have 2s as well, the tuning thread for mine on Keith Frank's site may be somewhat useful, then. As I recall there are a number of pictures there of progression holes and where the butterflies sit that you may be able to use as comparisons. I did fully disassemble and rebuild mine, and took lots of pictures along the way should you go down the same path and want to see anything. Among other learnings that had an impact on how my engine runs, a significant one was the realization that the mixture adjustment screws come in 2 varieties (should be short taper on ours, but most critical is not mixing and matching), that if screwed in too far they can damage the ports, and that they can/do leak air. Per Keith's recommendation, I used EZTurn fuel lube in the threads to solve that particular air leak. If your carbs haven't been touched in a long while, it is likely that the leather seals for the spindle will also leak. EZTurn or vaseline from outside may provide a temporary solution until you rebuild and replace those seals.

The following is a note from John Watson in a thread on the now essentially defunct se7ens.net mailing list: According to the Girling catalogue:- LOTUS SEVEN SERIES TWO - June 1960 to October 1961 and LOTUS SUPER SEVEN October 1961 on BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER = 5/8" CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER = 3/4" CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER = 3/4" Cheers, John. I also had this in my files, from page 3 of a Girling catalog. I'll also attach the pdf of the catalog if the forum allows me to do so. Girling Dunlop Parts Catalogue G262.pdf

Tony Ingram (lotus7.com) or Mike Ostrov would be the folks I'd contact - if anyone has done it I suspect they'd be aware.