fatallightning

I just sold my 01 Birkin S3, and am also 6' and 220lbs or so, and fit. Not with much room to spare granted. What TVR out of curiosity, I'm about to pull the trigger on a Chimaera from the UK.

Does your tach show revs when you're cranking? My crank position sensor went bad, well the wiring to it. Was missing after a drive, parked it, and then wouldn't start a day or 2 later. Would crank, but not fire. I have a Zetec, and my basic standalone lets me fire the coils for testing. That checked out. Noticed no RPM readout when cranking, followed the CPS wiring, and the insulation had either chafed or been chewed on, exposing the conductor.

Dropped a PM about the front wings

I have RJS 6 points in my car. I prefer cam locks personally. G-Force is also reputable for the money. Summit has both.

Still hoping that the old Birkin Yahoo pertinent info will make its way over here?

Long shot before I order from the UK, anyone sitting on a pair?

2001 Jaguar XKR. The Birkin was a bit gnarly for the kind of casual cruises upstate I like to do with the wife, and I'm a big open air motoring fan. I was originally looking for an E36 vert or Z3 but the market is overpriced for those at the moment, at least IMO. It's been a good GT car, but I miss dailying something a bit more light footed and agile, and stick.

Which 595? I'm assuming the SS? I've run the RS-R on my elise and they worked well. That was a 140tw tire though. The current RS-RR and RS-PRO are both 200tw I believe. Wish they would change the naming convention. It's confusing.

I had a local glass guy do mine for about $125 for a blue tinted s3 sized screen. Try a glass specific auto place or hot rod place.

that appears to be the same tank I have, any idea where it's sourced from?

I've had an issue lately where with higher revs and longer WOT pulls, the expansion tank seems to foam/aerate to the point where it starts to push coolant past the cap. Once I use more sensible throttle the level settles back out. It seems to be aerating via the top bypass hose. I've tried repeated bleeds and burps. Rad did some have a small leak I had professionally repaired. I've taken some coolant out of the level to try and prevent this, picture show is level at full cold. I may just replace the header tank and cap just to be safe. Any ideas?

4 times in 8 months over 1200 miles. My stays had been modified by the PO for wider tires, but they've failed at where the welded bung attaches at the top side once on each side, then once on the straight section on the bottom, and today the brace that keeps them from flopping downward failed. My under fender brace/mounts seem especially burly and I'm not sure if they're original. I'll take pics and post them later one.

So after my Birkin has broken it's fender stays for the 4th time, I'm looking for a lighter replacement. I know in the UK, kitcardirect has some pretty attractively priced options, but shipping alone is $240 USD, which sinks the value equation quite a bit. Anything similar available stateside?

I have some slop in my rack, and I'm pretty sure it's right where the pinion enters the rack and not the rod ends. Is there a preload adjustment?

mattie at piermontbike.com please!

Nope. Unless you're in California.

Is this what you're talking about?

Track night in America at njmp checked my (expired) harnesses for date and wouldn't let me run them in my Elise. I had to wear the stock 3 point.

I can't recall if I saw Miata guys wearing arm restraints last year at NJMP. It was a TNIA which is usually a bit more lax, but I don't think safety items are really at the promoters discretion. My tech was giving me a little grief about my head poking a tiny tiny bit through the Elise, even though targa/T-top cars don't have to meet the broomstick test according to a strict reading.

Does njmp require arm restraints this year as well?

Interesting, it looks like yours is driven off the throttle linkage instead of from the actuator at the end of manifold?

I think my tps is on the fritz, and looking at what Jenvey sells for the ITBs, I ordered a D drive contactless unit. I went to clean the existing one just to see if it would clear up some of the running issues, and lo and behold, it's a Lucas part with a shaft drive. Evidently shared with classic Rovers, and NLA, and quite $$ from breakers or NOS. Looks like many Rover owners are using machined adapters to use the more common D drive Colvern type units, so it's kind of odd my car seems to be the reverse. There does seem to be a machined alloy plate, as I'd assume the TPS normally threads straight on. I'll unbolt it to get a better look at it, just curious if anyone else has a similar setup.

Yeah, definitely get something with an anti sub belt. Many tracks probably wouldn't let you on with a 4 point.