KnifeySpoony

Yes and 34nm for the mounts to the engine block.

This is the take home for me. Will be watching any fasteners on painted/coated surfaces closely.

Presumably due to fretting of the powder coat on the engine mount brackets, these seem prone to loosening up. I had been checking my paint marks regularly since my build in 2021 and trusting them, but they lied to me. Best put a wrench on them frequently imo. First tested them just recently and needed tightening. After a single track weekend a few were slightly loose again.

I have a CDI 1/2 wrench that goes up to 250ft lbs or so for bigger fasteners. No complaints. Seems high quality and can go in both directions for torqueing rear hub nuts which is basically what I bought it for. I have been using a Husky brand 3/8 wrench (20-100ftlbs), which has served me well and remained accurate for >10 years, but i recently "upgraded" to a gearwrench 120XP for the 120 tooth gear. There are various situations in which the coarse (many even high quality wrenches only have 30ish teeth) ratchets make operating the wrench challenging. I'm hoping the the 120 tooth makes tight situations less annoying.

Great pic - seems like something like that is my issue. Something causing the float to stick down. Some type of progressively increasing resistance/friction. While I look at the pump I want to see if I think the pickup can be modified to help reduce fuel starvation in left hand corners.

I'm well aware of the poor fuel gauge accuracy/linearity with these cars. I actually thought I was a lucky one, with a decent gauge compared to others. My car is almost 4 years old and it'd been doing OK - definitely a bit non-linear. It stays at full for the first 1/4 of a tank, then started to go down pretty predictably. However, starting yesterday, it doesn't register full anymore after a fill up. I was at the track so did 5 fillups in one day. At first it only went to 3/4, then a bit less each time, now it barely shows half a tank after a fillup. Any thoughts?

I use that industrial strength clear velcro stuff.

Starve was much worse at Sonoma this weekend. Could only run 7 laps on a full tank before starve would happen in T6 (long left) on the 8th lap. This behavior was consistent all weekend. I am on new stickier tires and carrying much more speed through there, but it seems odd that I could previously run 2 whole sessions, now can't even get through one full session. I'm looking into solutions to help the fuel pump pickup get to lower down or more central in the tank. Trying to avoid a more complex surge pot setup with secondary pump, return line, etc.

Hmm it felt secure (ie no wiggle to it), but i could see well to see if it had backed out of the engine itself. I think i saw a couple screws holding it in... Just nip them up?

Sensor is clipped in securely but I will fiddle with it.

Not that I'm aware of. And I'm on a dry sump so that seems unlikely. I will review my video though monitor the oil pressure gauge.

Interesting, someone else mentioned a possible sensor issue too. I will have a look over the sensors. Aren't they clipped in though?

In my duratec powered 420r, I Believe the fuel pump pickup is on the left side of the tank. However from all my googling I'm only reading about people getting fuel starve in right handers (maybe those are different setups?) Today at Laguna, twice in turn 2 (long left hander after downhill long hard braking zone) with about a third of a tank (can never tell with these gauges, but was only the second session after a fillup), I got a very brief but severe hesitation. No popping, which I've heard in other cars during fuel starve. No issues elsewhere on track. Otherwise, car flawless all day. Could this be starvation or should I be looking for other causes? I've always run two 20min sessions on a tank without issues, but maybe burning more fuel today from pushing harder with sticky tires. (New set of A24 ZZR, PR day)

Oh also i have a decat pipe on mine, that's a decent weight loss right there.

Do you know the spring rates on the cup dampers? re: weight. I weighed mine (420R, roller barrels, trackday rollbar, no heater, CF aeroscreen/mirrors, CF tillets, CF front wings, CF interior panels, OEM Banner battery, about 2/3rd to 3/4 tank of gas) and it was 1230lbs. I have since gone to an antigravity battery, so I think that was like 15lbs savings. So I assume with half tank of gas it's under 1200. 540kg wet is a fantasy by Caterham.

Ah ok doesn't sound too bad. With the s3 and tillets, the tunnel top is locked in by the seats. So much so that i never bothered with the aft fixing screws during my build.

Hmm I'm confused. You mounted the component underneath the tunnel top? You have to pull the tunnel top to download data? On my car this would be a serious inconvenience. I guess with your spec you don't have to unbolt a seat to remove the tunnel top?

Yeah I always do full face helmet because aeroscreen. Above 55mph or so it gets bad fast. And yea the throttle response with NA and ITBs is par excellence. I'm all about it. Many benefits, including the ability to dial in your yaw angle with great precision without any lag.

It's not slow, is it... The intake sound is glorious as well. You can really hear when it comes on cam and gets into it's happy place. bwaaaaaaaaaa

No, can definitely slide more than that. Although the rails get really full of grit over time and become hard to operate.

I would imagine the power delivery of a centrifugal blower would be better matched to a 7 than a roots. I'm an NA motor fan though.

I think you will find 18psi a bit low for street, but a good starting point for track. I think most aim for 21-24 hot - and you won't get that much gain on street. I start at 17 cold first session usually then bleed off as the day warms up. I'm running 2.5deg ears. On ZZS I had very uneven wear (pretty much entire outside half of tire) with 1.5deg. I swapped to 2.0 ears but also changed to ZZR around the same time. The wear is much better but still some shoulder wear so I recently swapped to 2.5deg ears when I did the race rear brake upgrade. I was concerned it might be too much, but balance still feels good though it's too early to say on tire wear. Gonna get proper tire temps next day out on track and find out. They make a 2.0 in the race ears so I can always drop back down. They have a 3.0 also but I assume that is intended for slicks only.

Also - re: caster - I'm one washer away from max and steering effort is very high on track. People that have driven my car think it's ridiculous. It is very fatiguing actually, but I enjoy it. I just imaging I'm driving a 70s F1 car. On the street it's fine though. ARB choice and rear setting will vary on other factors, especially your spring rates. I think I have the orange bar (can't remember actually - whatever comes with the "track" setup) and I'm at one hole from full stiff on rear bar.

You are on 888R? Not sure how much camber they like but I am running 3deg with ZZR and wear is good. I might bump to 2.5 and see how you wear - depends on your street/track balance of driving. I run zero toe because I prefer the feel. I run my ride height quite low 119mm/138mm - this puts front LCA parallel with ground. This puts bell housing clearance at 68mm which sounds scary but I've had no issues. I've even driven over a speed bump or two. Do you happen to know the spring rates on the cup suspension? Your push is probably just because you aren't getting heat into the front tires. I wouldn't judge car setup based on that tbh. Besides, that is easily fixed with a gentle prod of the throttle- rear will come right around, especially on cold tires on the street. These cars really can't do what they were meant to do/are capable of on the street. They are surprisingly fast and capable on track.

triple post lol