KnifeySpoony

I don't use my odometer as I don't trust it. I calculated mileage based on what google maps told me the distance was door to door.

Hmm definitely something going on. It starts instantly and idles smoothly. Pulls like a raped ape to redline. Not sure if I should chase the issue or not. Freeway cruising is c. 3000rpm. I always note the mileage after getting to the track and filling up at the pumps at the track. However that after a cold morning drive - my oil runs extremely cold because of the dry sump setup. I see temps < 110F on cold AMs while on the freeway. Keep in mind sender is in the tank, after the cooler. I wonder if the cold/thick oil could be affecting economy as well. Another variable is that I let the car idle for a while in my driveway before leaving, trying to get a little heat in the coolant/oil. Typically I will let it idle for 5-10mins. This may be using a not-insignificant amount of fuel? I will go fill up and see if the drive home from the track (warmer ambient temps, no idling period) used significantly less fuel. Thanks

Not that it's really important, but I've notice that my 420R (with aeroscreen, 5 spd trans, roller barrel intake, stock CC tune) gets terrible gas mileage. It seems I get about 16-17mph on the highway cruising 70-75mph. I guess I expected something on the order of 20-25mpg? Sure, the Cd is bad, but there's still not a ton of frontal area, and it's still just a 2L engine. My supercharged exige got 30mph on the highway. Interestingly though, I get better mileage on track in the 7 by a significant margin over the Exige. Is this typical, or is my car running unusually rich at low RPMs?

I didn't have to bend my brake pedal. I don't think that's a thing on LHD cars. Or at least it's not anymore. LHD and RHD pedal boxes are completely different. I did, however have to modify the grommet that overlies the throttle pedal/cable access. The grommet was interfering with throttle closing.

Good racing!

My thought was to remove the vertical risers for the tie-down strap on the stock battery tray and just attach a new strap. The new battery has a smaller footprint than the OEM battery, so I don't know if I also need to put some blocks down on the base to keep it from sliding around as well.

yeah it's smaller than the batteries in my bikes lol - and much lighter of course

My ATX12HDRS is still sitting on the shelf. I have yet to modify my existing battery tray/straps to secure it. It's on my to-do list! haven't decided how I want to do it yet. Let me know if you beat me to it.

It looks like this kit replaces the solid lines to the rear with flex lines for easier install. Caterham sells specially bent solid lines, but I don't see how they could be installed with the drivetrain in place. https://parts.dpr-motorsport.com/contents/en-uk/p16

bumping this, as I'm closer to doing this project...

I just ordered some from Roger Kraus - he won't be getting their shipment until July however. He does seem to be the most popular Avon distributor in US however.

Went back to Sonoma on Sunday- broke into the 46s, still on ZZS. I'm amazed how capable this car is. I keep pushing it harder and it delivers. I think the car is capable of solid 45s on ZZS, probably faster in expert hands. I changed my ride height (lower overall, and with less rake), which I think helped. It was at very high ride height before.

Don't forget some PPF on the wings to keep them looking fresh.

Appreciate the input. living in CA, rain is basically a non-issue. I don't plan on making a habit of running the A24s, but I think I will try them at some point. For now though, I've ordered a set in the A64. They should still give me some PRs over my ZZS (easy ego boost), but last a while, and not beat up the car as much.

I too have mismatched finished on my aeroscreen CF mirrors. I think the center and one of the sides is gloss, the other satin. CC quality control for you. All part of the charm, they say...

Ok that makes me feel somewhat more comfortable with running them. I have read on UK forums about the A24 being done in a weekend at the track, or just one lap wonders, which suggests that they are impressively soft. So my concern is that they were a true "qualifier". Meaning they're good for just a lap or two then they overheat. And then wear like soft cheese. If that's not the case, I may try them.

Bumping this to get some input from you experts. I have been running OEM ZZS on my 420R - have 5 days on them thus far. Still lots of rubber on them, though the fronts are chunking a bit. Could run them for another 5 days easily. They feel good, nice and progressive; the car is fast but also super fun and playful on them. That said, I'm thinking of "upgrading" to ZZR just for curiosity, and for laptime bragging rights of course. They have 3 compounds now - A64, A24, and a new 333 "extreme" compound. From reading this thread (and others) it seems even the A64 would be a big upgrade over my ZZS, so I'm wondering if I should go with them as the next step up, or go all the way to the A24. I don't really street drive the car (and it never sees rain), BUT I do drive it to the track (about 60miles away). Any thoughts how the A24 would do driving to and from the track, in terms of wear? Are they super soft? I don't want to destroy them on the freeway just getting there. Also how many trackdays would be typical for them to last? (most days I do are five 20 min sessions) I think I'd be happy with as little as 4-6 days if they are very fast. If they only last 2-3 days, it's probably not worth it just for the bragging rights, at least not routinely. I can only assume the "extreme" compound is even softer and just a qualifier, so probably not for me at all... Thanks

Hmmmm... I guess we could establish some dimensions. Maybe make sure the cutout in side skin is right location (although I'm not sure how a mistake like that could be made). It seems odd that all 4 primaries would be bent incorrectly about the same amount. I'd look to engine position and exhaust cutout.

Well, your primaries aren't fastened to the engine yet. I would start there? Or does fastening them make the alignment worse?

something's not right there...

Imo, unless you're racing, where laptimes matter, get whatever floats your boat.

I did not, and I don't think you'd want to; you will want to remove it for oil changes - when you take off the cover for the finger filter, the oil will drain and get all in between the guard and the sump. Taking the guard off allows the oil to drain cleanly.

the black wedge is the bellhousing guard - that goes right where you're concerned

Agree with everything you say - however, as later clarified, the nut is not actually coming loose. The issue seems to be something else. I will update my first post.

https://www.topgear.com/car-news/british/caterham-sold-record-number-cars-2021 Having taken delivery of a 420R kit in 2021, I feel decidedly less special now.