KnifeySpoony

I see higher lateral g in higher speed corners actually. I think this is typical?

What oil temps are you seeing on the street?

Just don't install an oil temp gauge and ignorance is bliss. If you aspire to track it, then dry sump is certainly an asset.

Dry sump and uprated brakes are for track work. You will never need them on the street. There is no downside to uprated brakes on the street, but they are unnecessary. However, dry sump is actually a downside for a street driven car. Your oil will be perpetually overcooled.

The standard bar is shorter and more likely to fold in a rollover. Since you're short, the height isn't really an issue though.

Shift lights are kind of pointless on a street car (and not that necessary even on a track car). I would consider the trackday rollbar, even if you never/seldom track it. How tall are you? Lowered floors if over 5'11" methinks. Also, i would go 13" wheels - looks better on ans s3, and better performance/ride quality.

Heck, buy two.

OK I registered for the 10/6 Sonoma day, so I can give a ride if you want. That goes for you too Gallognacio, either 10/6 or 10/15. Typically I'm trying for PR in first couple AM sessions with better track conditions, then after that I'm happy to give rides.

If I make it to 10/6, you're welcome to ride along to see what a 1:45 pace feels like.

IMO if you want the coolest, most bonkers car then the 620R is it, assuming you're willing to accept the significant downsides of a sequential when driving around town. Otherwise get a 420 with 5 speed.

Optioning a sequential on a 420R is not a simple matter - definitely will be some faffing/DIY to get it done (above and beyond the normal amount in a 7 build). If you really want a sequential, unless you're willing to tackle a project, I'd just get a 620R (factory build of course). A sequential is very hardcore, what most (other than 7 nutjobs like us) would consider a track-only option in a car. I would highly recommend against it for a solely street driven car unless you are a real nutter. Coming from a bmw and a subaru, I don't know if you realize how raw and aggressive even a rather tame 7 is. You certainly don't need to have a sequential for it to be exciting.

No need to notify me at all. Rather I would need to notify you if I end up registering and attending that day, so you would know if it's worth showing up. If I do go, all you need to do it find me there and I will give you a ride.

oh I might also be at Sonoma 10/6 if you can make that (a thursday)

Yes, I can show you the car on a weekend evening. But unfortunately there's nowhere to drive around where I live.

I'm fairly certain I could scare the shit out of him in boring-old 200whp 420. Come to Sonoma 10/15 if you want a ride along...

Yes - caveat is that my experience is only with roots-style blowers, I've never driven a centrifugal. Although the torque delivery is linear; ie there isn't a high boost threshold like there is with some turbo setups, there IS boost lag like with a turbo, albeit limited. You don't get that instantaneous throttle response that you get with a well -tuned NA motor. With a roots blower, boost is bypassed with closed/neutral throttle, and there is a delay until it builds pressure when mashing the gas. It's small, and many people don't even notice it. They're great for street cars IMO. But for me there is nothing like the instant hit from an NA motor, especially one with ITBs.

re: 420 vs 620 - other than the ability to build it (which was a big priority), I am not a fan of the response of forced induction engines. Also, supercharger heat soak is a power killer on a track-driven car, which is my car's main purpose. So the hottest naturally aspirated version was the most appealing to me. If you want a stoplight-to-stoplight or onramp champ, then the 620 is surely the way to go. From what I read, many people with a 620 find it frightening to drive, as it so easily overwhelms traction. It's not for beginners. Remember unlike all the other high HP cars out there today, a 7 has no nannies... re: S vs R pack - I think the most important part of the R pack is the LSD - IMO it's a mandatory feature for any moderately powerful seven. Driving a 7 with the throttle is a big part of the experience, and it's just not the same with an open diff. Of course, other R pack components are also worthwhile additions for a car that will be driven hard or near/at the limit. If you plan on having a cruiser, that will be street driven at no more than 7/10ths, then S pack may be more appropriate. If you intend to track the car, then it's an easy decision. A 7 is a surprisingly capable and performant car. Even a 420 is very quick at legal speeds (before hitting aero drag) and can easily overwhelm its rear tires in a curve in 3rd gear. If you intend to really explore its performance capabilities, you will need to go to a track. Only much more powerful or serious machinery can keep up with a well driven 420 on track.

. Model differences as well as S/R differences are shows on Caterham's site and configurator. Go the the UK page and play with their configurator to see all the options. One big difference between 420 and 620 is that 620 is factory-build only, so if you want to build (as I did) then 620 is off the table. Also 620 is RHD drive only. I am in Newark. If you want to do a test fit, I'm happy to oblige.

HOD. I'm on the fence though, as I'm already registered for 10/15 with Lightspeed. HOD also turns me off with their "membership" fee, and their high prices in general. Although they do keep the groups from getting too crowded I think.

This is one of the things that helped me solidify my decision to get a 7. It also has me wanting a M3W bad - my plan is to get one when I'm ready to slow down after the 7. AKA my retirement car.

Ok so I got new bearings installed. Pushed back the caliper pistons this time just in case. Old bearings out on bench - they seem fine TBH. Not really sure now - maybe it was just pad drag the whole time? Either way, peace of mind is easily worth the cost of bearing and 2 hrs for swapping them. Except now I noticed a small weep of brake fluid from right side rear caliper piston... so ordered a new caliper from CC. Rebuild kits aren't cheap and swapping the whole caliper is easier, and I'm lazy. Hoping to get back to Sonoma 10/6 and 10/15.

I have the JAL LED rear lights in standard (clear) housings. When I ordered my 420R, it was ordered without holes for reverse/fog lights. I simply never mounted them. Certainly the new CC LED lights are slick and can help you be legal with a really clean look. They are a bit too modern looking for my tastes, however. If you plan on them, definitely ask for no holes in your back panel.

Those look brand new!

In the Bay Area proper, just about every third car is a model 3, or at least it seems that way.

I don't street drive much, I'm usually up there on a bike. I'm sure I'll be up there again at some point though, especially after this heat passes. Always fun to run around on track with another 7 as well, so hopefully we'll cross paths on track at some point.