JBH

Rather than offer my opinion, I will refer you to an excellent document by Schroth that describes not only proper mounting points and hardware, but provides addional information on the differences between 5 and 6 point harnesses and the effectiveness of a Hans device. It is recommended reading for anyone using or contemplating the installation of harnesses: http://www.schrothracing.com/docs/Competition_Instructions.pdf Unless I don't understand the advice offered by RMSC, a five point harness can not be mounted at the lap belt points - it has to be centered and mounted to the frame and not the floorboard. It is hard to believe, but in a crash the belts stretch so you want to keep the belts as short as possible by keeping the mounting points as close as possible to the cam/latch.

Zetec from Caterham uses the Pectel T2

That's why I asked...seems like a lot of spring for a light car. The geometry may be different, but I bet that car doesn't roll more than a couple mm when you turn. I am also guessing you are not driving it but on the smoothest of roads. I also am not sure damper is a relevant term for your car.

Mysteriously, one of my rear tires 205/55-13 got a burn mark on the inside. I have three other tires with 50 - 60% tread. I need only one 205/55-13 for the rear to make my set whole. If you have a used tire, let me know Jeff

Ok...I am surprised or maybe just confused. Actually, suspension settings for different cars may be a good topic for a separate thread, but some of that has been covered here and there Since you brought it up, My SLR is set up with 175 lb/in in front with progressive rears (not sure of rate), so it seems surprising you would run spring rates of 425 or as high as 600! Is this just differences in geometry between our cars? My car exhibits little roll and is nicely balanced under braking and through turns. I might go as high as 225, but after that I start to worry the car gets too stiff and will become unsettled. I am not sure if some of Mazda's problem is being too stiff in front. Just for reference, I'll list the specs on my car setup: Springs F/R: 175/Progressive Bump Rubber F/R (mm); 42/42 Dampers F/R: Bilstein M1/M1 Camber F/R (degrees): 1.3/1.8 Toe in F/R (mm): 1.5 / 2.0 Castor (degrees) 4.7 Ride Height F/R (mm): 120 left, 122 right /145 left, 136 right Rollbar diameter F/R; 18mm / 1/2" Wheelbase F/R: 2225 / 2330 Tires CR500 F/R: 175/55-13 / 205/55-13 Wheel width F/R (inches): 6.5 / 8.5

Mazda: I went back to the beginning of this thread to see you are running QA1 shocks. I have a few questions: 1. What model shocks did you select? 2. Are the compression and rebound separately adjustable? 3. Can you adjust the gas pressure? 4. Did you look at other shock manufacturers and why did you select QA1? Thanks - I am looking at different options and I could use your insights. Also, I run Moton Club Sports on my Porsche 964Turbo so I have a little experience adjusting and tuning shock systems. WRT sway bars, I look at them as a means for fine tuning your suspension system. The springs and shocks are the core of the system - a sway bar offers a means for tuning in the suspension (balancing under and over steer behavior) once you get your springs and shocks set. I am not saying it is true in your case, but if wrong choices are made in spring rates or shock settings, a sway bar may have limited benefit.

:hurray: Great color combination Congratulations!

You and your family are in my thoughts and prayers. Keep us up to date.

I wouldn't...the car has maybe 2.5" clearance - I think you would have all kinds of problems driving around the city. I used to live in Fishkill, There are many many great roads in the Hudson Valley that are better choices for this car. You also have several tracks in proximity if you are inclinced to exploring the performance and handling of the car more at its (and your) limits. If you haven't already, get a ride in a member's car so you can experience it first hand.

Be sure to take videos - they are priceless as they grow older and more adept. I went to my son's (17) first gig tonight - he plays bass in a metal/shred band:crazy:

Dave raises an important point...do you know the settings on your alignment? Under heaving braking weight shifts forward and the front end begins to move downward. The wheel geometry is changing at the same time, so the first thing to do is to make sure you are in correct alignment. Setting the dampers to the highest setting can induce excessive anti-dive. This can hinder performance by causing the front suspension to stiffen while braking for a corner, which can cause understeer. In extreme amounts, anti-dive geometry will cause wheel hop and caster changes under braking. The place to start is with your alignment - make certain that is correct. Then you tune the dampers starting with settings somewhere in the middle.

The first reaction is bad shocks, but it sounds like these are new. So....You may be running too much compression. Too stiff and you take out the function of the shock in absorbing the bumps. If the front starts jumping, it doesn't matter how much rebound you have dialed in. What is the condition of your rotors - any chance they are warped or have brake compound built up?

I agree, you better sit in the car you are considering buying. At 6'4", I think a Caterham SV would fit, but not the deDion unless your height is in your upper torso. I am 6'2" and 180# - on the street, I drive my 2002 Superlight without shoes (socks only) and that is pretty comfortable because I can slide my left foot under the pedals to rest. On the track, my race shoes (size 11) are good for heel/toe, but I can not slip my left foot under pedals to rest on straights. Needless to say, the foot box is very narrow with no adjustments possible. After 20 minutes or so, you really start to miss that dead pedal. I have a race seat that is really just a fiberglass shell and set all the way back so I am maxed out wrt legroom. I had the tall rollbar installed and that works well for me. http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/vir1.jpg If you can not sit in the car you are considering, try to get the seller to find someone with your height and inseam to sit in their car and operate the pedals.

Bruce: Nice job! I have to ask...do you think you could have walked into the DMV office with MI title in hand and just done a title transfer? I ask, because that's what I did. The only issue I had was convincing an inspection station (independent shop) that I only needed the "safety inspection" and was exempt from the OBD2 check (which it is since my engine has no OBD data port)

Having recently replaced a "carbon fiber" rear wing, I have a few comments and thoughts to add: 1. The CF wing used to build my car in 2002 was very thin with a thin laminate. It shattered when I hit a rubber cone at 50- 60 mph. Hardly the properties one would expect for a CF part, but that just reinforces the points made by Kar120c 2. The new replacement wing is a different design and weave. While it is still a laminate, it is a thick weave with much more CF. I am quite sure it will still shatter if I hit something, so at $650 each, I think there is a good argument for using fiberglass. Only problem is CF looks really good, so I think the best thing I can do is be careful not to hit anymore cones. 3. I spent two days on the South Course at VIR and if you have been there, you know there are lots of larger rocks all around the paddock. I have no white spots on my fenders, so I don't think rocks are the source. 4. Using a protective 3M clear film is the way to go. I have also used Grafix, a cling vinyl sheet. It works well too except you have to replace it occasionally. 5. I use a polish to take out water spots - it leaves the finish clean and very reflective

That's the one thing that I don't like about open wheel racing - the small mistake of wheel contact can generate a huge crash.

Just got back from VIR. There was no way to get times other than those generated when I was running with a 355 Challenge Car. He was turning 2:18 and I was a little faster than him. Top Speed for me is 125 - 130 on the back straight - I am out of revs 200 feet or so before the braking zone. I know I can pick up some time here and there, but I think slicks would make a big difference. The six speed gearbox is still troublesome (hence my envy for a sequential) as I search for third. The best technique, though hardly optimal, is to down shift 6 to 5 to 4 to 3 or 6 to 5 to 3 Most people are amazed at how fast the car drives into and out of turns. I catch most cars by braking deeper and/or using engine torque coming out of the corner. I love this car. Doug: Welcome to VIR Club. I am not sure of your driving experience, but if you solo, have them put you into Open Wheel. I'll be there in early Oct. with my Formula Ford.

Fantasy Junction: eBay Auction Nice photos

Thanks for the video - nice gear box. I am definitely envious of that. Any idea of your top speed on the front and back straights? I am at VIR this weekend and Monday with FSR PCA. We are running South Course over the weekend and Full Course on Monday. My car just chews up the South Course. I am a little worried about my top speed on Monday. Looks like you were running 2:16 - 2:17 laps. Very nice!

When you think about it, the size of the steering wheel says a lot about the responsiveness of a car. The steering on my Caterham is on par with vintage formula cars and sports racers. Until you drive one of these cars it is hard to judge what constitutes a good steering. For many years I thought the Porsche was the benchmark (and I have owned several BMWs, an Audi S4, Alfas, and Fiats) - then I drove a formula car and that reset the benchmark.

Are willing share the Solidsworks file?

Fast bike + inexperienced driver = bad things http://www.tgdaily.com/html_tmp/content-view-33853-113.html

I think the problem I have when considering alternative aeroscreens is the lack of interchangeability. For example, I can not interchange to a windscreen (like I think you can) without drilling new holes and plugging the old ones.

I have to believe that having the car titled before taking receipt can solve some major headaches. The only issue you face is how the car is titled in Texas and how that will translate to NJ. Here in NC, having the car titled in CO, with a Colorado VIN, made registration and title transfer a breeze.

Not to hijack the thread, but there is what looks to be a very nice Manta Mirage for sale on eBay. Manta Mirage