JBH

I think it's the front wing that is the issue, but I can see the clearance of the Watts Link in the rear could also be a problem. Just as a reference point, I run 6X13 wheels in front fitted with 185/60 Hoosier race radials. This is the maximum tire width (7.28 in/185 mm) and diameter (21.74 in/552.19 mm) that can fit under those cycle wings without modifications. If someone can find a 15" tire that has similar diameter and no greater width, it will work. In the rear, I run 225/50 on 8"X13 wheels with no problems (diameter = 21.85 in/554.99 mm and width = 8.85 in/225 mm). Of course, those with clamshell wings can run any size they like. :7fume:

I can't speak for other sevens, but on the Superlight, there is no way to put a 15" wheel under the front wing without raising the wings. I am not sure that advantages outweigh the issues it creates. Besides requiring significant modifications, the 15" wheel will likely raise the ride height and increase the unsprung weight.

Hal: I am not sure how much help these pics will be. My wiring harness is taped and tied up so it is hard to see the connections you ask about. You can see the wire to my alternator is large. The other end is connected to the starter and that has a similar wire the runs to the battery. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1376233353_Alt1 reduced.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1398831668_Alt2 reduced.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/993066507_Alt3 reduced.jpg

It does seem like a good combination, but the problem with this car is that no one knows the quality of the design or build. And don't forget to figure in the additional 13% buyers premium:shocked:

It looks to me like the mounting face for both wheels are about 24mm from the centerline. Both wheels are definitely marked et24 Blatchat confirms the front and rear are both et24: http://213-04.com/T.asp?id=97653

They are cast wheels with the Caterham inscription on the inside. If I measured correctly the bolt pattern is 4X108. The markings on the inside of the wheel indicate ET 24 for both the front and rear wheels. I thought it was a great deal considering the deplorable state of the dollar. Those weights seem about right.

Well...it took almost 5 months, but they arrived today. 6 & 8 X 13 in anthracite http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/150694670_Wheels2 Reduced.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1756508638_Wheels4 reduced.jpg I don't have a scale so I can't tell you the weight. They seem light, though not as light as the magnesium originals. Cost: about $1000 for all four

Harold: My engine is very similar to yours. I have lots of pictures and I am willing to take more if you need help. My car/engine were assembled by Caterham USA, so that may be a helpful reference point if you run into things that don't make sense. Just let me know if you need something.

Sounds good and I am glad to join. Let me know how and when.

Wow...that sucks. I wonder what is driving that legislation? Will they "grandfather" the cars already built and titled in GA? Will they recognize existing titles in other states?

I am surprised I did so well on my first purchase - dumb luck I suppose. I went for a Caterham Superlight because it was a hotter car, it should have decent resale value and I figured parts and expertise through dealers would be readily available. Other than a leaking oil pressure sender, loose radiator hoses, and difficulty with cold start (below 40 F) the car has been trouble free. Part of the reason for the lack of problems was because I had the car inspected and evaluated from top to bottom before completing the purchase. Parts availability remains an issue and Caterham USA has been pretty much useless in getting me what should have been simple parts: a new set of wheels, DeDion ears, a gas cap and some touch-up paint. Now the dealers I talked to/worked with (RMSCi and GT Classics ) have been very good. So if I had to do it again, I might look harder at the USA manufacturers/suppliers. Just to expand on Al's comment about registration and classification, my advice to any first timer is to buy used where the car has been titled by the previous owner. It doesn't solve all the problems, but it sure helps.

I was wondering the same thing. Even an electrical short of a Li-cobalt battery can trigger a catastrophic event. I believe Valence Technologies offers a safer battery based on Li-phosphate chemistry. Their website has a great video showing the runaway reaction of the Li-Cobalt battery http://www.valence.com/technology/safety_video.html#

What a contrast to the video that follows this one - same track, but very different drivers.

Try Complete Custom Wheels (CCW): http://www.ccwheel.com/files/home.php At one time they would make a wheel to whatever size and offset your wanted. Hopefully, they still do

:jonautox: makes this :willy: look so ordinary. Very funny - nice job. Now can you make a Seven that spins like the smiley?

This strikes me as a bizarre project and I wonder why anyone would build such a car. It's not a Porsche, it resembles a 550 in the body shell only, and it costs a fortune. Is this a case, where in California, a Ferrari or Lambo is just too common?

Many website hosts (e.g. Network Solutions) offer all the tools you need on their website for no charge. You need no technology on your computer other than a browser and connection to the internet. They offer templates and step by step instructions. Seems easy enough though I have no idea if you can build the tree structure. I assume it is done by building a number of pages and linking them together as a hierarchy

Well, I think you are on the right track. I would like to have the option to remove or adjust the wings. How about hose clamps? The big issue is the clamps loosening over time. If you can figure out a fail safe, then I think you have a good approach.

Several years ago I researched this when I was thinking of bringing a Euro M5 into the country. It is not easy and it will require some modifications to the vehicle to meet DOT, EPA and National Highway Traffic Safety Commission requirements. Here are some links that might help answer your questions: http://www.foreignborn.com/visas_imm/entering_us/7importingyourcar.htm http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/import/FAQ%20Site/index.html If you are ever interested in a European model BMW, here's the place to go: http://willz.ca/importcanadatousa.htm

Tires, wheels and hopefully a Cool Shirt

My bad...you are right. Generalizations can be misleading - it really is my opinion that there are first year issues in 1995 and the 96 on is still preferable for resale value. If you ever want to get into the details of differences, search Rennlist 993 forum using "95 or 96+?" as key words.

The first Porsche I bought from a Chevrolet dealer lot. I was naive (23 yo) and thought I could trust a dealer that had a great reputation, so in 1984 I paid $18K for a bright red 911SC Targa with cork color interior. It was a one of a kind car that was just beautiful. I asked the salesman if the car had ever been repainted or in an accident. He told me no and handed me an "as-is" form to sign. I went to get the car aligned and sadly, it could not come within Porsche specs. I took the car back, but the sales manager told me they would not accept my return and informed me I signed the "as-is" form. They did agree to try to fix it and promptly broke the magnesium alloy trailing arm trying to pull it out to Porsche specs. They had no idea what they were doing. I trailered the car to a Porsche specialist and they straightened the car on a Cellete bench the way the factory recommends. Cost: another $18K and three months which included removal of bondo, a proper primer and respray. I got a lawyer and sued the dealer for the cost of repairs. During discovery I found out the car was totaled, salvaged and rebuilt; complete with a new speedometer installed. The entire car was a fraud run through the Manheim auctions. The dealer would not settle, so we went to court. The big issue was the "as-is" form I signed which under most cases would release the dealer from any liability. But the salesman admitted on the stand that he remembered me asking if the car was repainted or involved in an accident. That saved the day and the judge ruled in my favor. The dealer was pissed, but ultimately he paid me the $18K in repairs. Out of that I had to pay $1K in legal fees. Of course when I finally sold the car, I had to disclose its history and that probably cost me another $4K. Many lessons learned not the least of which is I walk away from cars with unknown or undocumented history and always get a PPI. Any high value automobile will not likely be sent to a scrap yard if there is any chance it can be rebuilt. In the 80s Porsches were rare enough and valuable enough that very few were considered totaled. This means there are still a number of them floating around with suspicious and uncertain histories. I still watch the dealers website in Newark, DE. I am pretty certain that was the last Porsche they sold - hopefully they learned an important lesson too.

This is the wheel that came with the car. It is a suede 260mm Racetech http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1302389489_Cockpit - red2.JPG I just changed to this Momo 260mm wheel to give me a little more room for my knees. http://www.24ibuy.com/ftp/products/MOMO/R192226/R192226-al.jpg

Gladly...actually there is a lot of good information here about different models. The choice between early and late model Porsche depends on what you want to do with it. For a weekend/fair weather car the early 911s are great. These will probably continue to appreciate in value, especially the 911S models pre-1974. There is nothing wrong with the T or E models except they are not nearly as desirable when/if you decide to sell. These early cars have torque curves that peak in the high rpm range. They require a fair amount of attention to keep them properly tuned, but they are great drivers on road or track when you can run at high revs. For around town, with stop & go driving, the plugs will foul and you will not be very happy with performance. Rust is an issue especially in and around the battery, door sills and floorpan. The best advice I can offer is to buy a restored car where restoration was done to a completely dissembled car - preferably a restoration starting with bare metal. The 1978 on cars are much more attuned to the street environment. Good low end torque, fairly flat torque curve, smooth shifting and easy to maintain. The galvanized body pretty much makes rust a thing of the past. Here it is important to know history because many Porsches were rebuilt from salvage back when it was easy to do. Ask me how I know... Avoid model introduction years (1990, 1995, etc.) because there are always problems in these years that get resolved in the following years. If you see a car you like, let me know. I can help you research it - I certainly know the questions to ask the seller.

Congratulations! It appears we have some Porsche enthusiasts among Seven owners. Steve - if you are serious in buying a Porsche, check your local PCA regions The 911SC is a very good car - reliable, great handling, wider body style, better brakes etc. My first P-car was a 1978 SC Targa. A great car to drive and relatively easy to work on and modify. Avoid 1975 - 1977 as these engines tended to not do well with early US emission controls. Porsche has been on a streak with the 1987on cars - they are all quite good.