tnttim

I would have to say, "No". Since the engine is in the back it pulls too far away from the original Idea of a Seven.

If you are really into the Autocross idea I would first get a copy of the rules for which ever club you plan on running with. As mentioned before SCCA there is no Seven'ish bike engine class. They will lump you in with purpose built, very much smaller, road rockets that scream. As for NASA autocrossing, I could not tell you. They dont exist (or dont seem to), here in Michiagn. Track stuff yes. Build your car to the rules and as fast as you can, or think you can. But you will find out real quick that if you are lumped in with a lot of cars that are by nature faster than you, you may not enjoy racing for very long. SCCA also has ruling about where the enigne may lie in the car. If you plan on sticking with a Bike engine I dont think that matters much. But as for an auto engine there is a limit to where you can move it to and stay 'legal' according to the rules. If you can give us some more details about how and where you plan on racing this, there are lots of people here who have most likely been down that road. We surely like to help. tim

I would not see any issue driving with a child in the car as long as you follow the simple saftey issues that is appearant with all cars. Driving defencivly, as if your life depends on it. Properly fitted seat and seat belts. Keep in mind that some states have booster seat laws that are so broad that even if you have a seat that fits the child so well the officer will still write you a ticket based on creating revenue for the city. Keep your car well maintained. If you havent checked the contition of your front ball joints in the last decade you just might want to do that before you let anyone else in your car. Talk about rules, "don't lean your head out", "don't touch the parking lever", "don't eat the bugs". Other things play into that issue also,,, Does your car have a roll bar? Is it a full cage like an SCCA cage? Does the roll bar actually go to the floor or does it just sit on the top of the shock mounts behind the seat? Basically how well is you car designed? I personally would rather take a well build 7 down the highway long before I ever take a Smart Car or an old Ford Festiva. If you ever want some proof of that poke around the video sites and watch some of the 7 crashes. I think that 7's have been around long enough that people have some pretty good saftey improvments. Check your insurance... Does it cover passenger and if so are there limits??? Be prepared to assume liability, being a 'self built' or a 'kit car' this can open you up to a law suit if someone get hurts in your car. This happens all the time in airplanes. Cessna stopped builing small airplanes because of lawsuits like " Airplane didn't withstand impact into mountain"(not kidding, she won). As for highway driving??? Always recommend a good pair of goggles and a helmet, just in case and bugs hurt at 60+MPH. Personal pet peve... get a helmet that fits your children. Most motorcycle shops have DOT Snell helmets for children. It will be lighter on the kids head and if you have an issue there is less chance that the helmet will come off. Also, that the excess weight of an adult helmet may cause more injury to the neck. In a similar note my daughter has been bugging me to ride with me on my motorcycle since she could climb on it. But I keep telling her that untill she is 8 she can't. I even checked into the laws to see if there was a age limit on this and in Michigan there is not. Have fun and use good judgement.

Yes they are attached to the DIff and the rotors are attached to the inner CV joint. Once you take the Brakes out of the question then the A-Arms are really there just to support the upright, and there is hardly any rotation there from things like the brakes applying torque. More or less of what I was looking for is the advantages of a shorter A-Arm as opposed to longer ones. With the HP I plan to run and sticky tires, when I accellerate there will be a compression load on the front joint and tension on the rear. Now with a given force at the wheel, the longer the A-Arm length is the more the force will be exerted on the joints. Think of it like a lever...... _____1ft_______1lb = 1 ft/lbs of torque ^ ____________2ft________________1lb = 2 ft/lbs of torque ^ The weight never chaged but it added alot more force at the pivot point. Tim

In the Seven world isn't that the same person?? Weren't we all (well our cars at least) created in his (car's) image?? :blueangel: Tim

Gonna try to make it. Tim.

Actually I work on another Members car that has the inboard brakes and that is what got me thinking about this. The other reason is I am using a turbo powered engine which when done will have about 350 Hp in it, and I would rather not rip off the rear end of the car. Or I can just run non-sticky, small, skinny tires in the back. NO traction = No twisting :ack: Tim

Well, I mean the length of the A Arms themselves. Inner and outer. Such as the distance from the Outer ball joint to the inner pivot point near the Diff. Based on the bottom of the legs (inner Bushings) being the same distance apart. Of course with 'proper' geometery for roll center and caster and all the other junk. I am specifically asking about the actuall length of the arms. Given the outer ball joint and upright does not move. would I rather have the inner ball joints (bushings) closer to the Diff. or closer to the Side of the car? Shorter would be less likely to flex and twist. But is limited on motion. Techinally the angle of the arms moves more the shorter they get. Given a fixed vertical motion of the upright. Have I confused everyone yet??? tim I'm not refering to any trailing link.

So, I was wondering what others opinions were of Long or Short A-Arms for the rear independant suspension. Since longer A-Arms would be more leverage for accelleration and twist for braking, would it be a real advantage or should a shorter arm be more advised? Tim

Got pictures? tim

The best way to would be to remove the head. If you try to drill the spark plug the shaving will most likely go onto the top of the piston. AND we all know having stuff floating around in the cylinder is not a good thing. The metal shavings wouldn't be as bad as the porceilain be cause they melt and get soft in the chamber and will eventually blow out (if they dont get stuck in the valves). But the ceramic will not melt and will scratch and chip anything they come in contact with. If you punch out the rest of the ceramic and then use the easy out to remove the threaded ferrel then you still have to worry about the debrit in the cyl. . If you have the use of a BoroScope and one of those keyboard vacuumes with a little hose on it to suck out the chips then go for it. Because if you don't get them all you still have to remove the head anyway. But you need to make sure you get any that are a grain of sand or bigger. My engine has eaten a few aluminium turbo blades and I have kept an eye on the cylinders with a scope and pressure tests and havent noticed anything to bad. But with the long tubes and the intercooler I am sure what reached the engine was grain of sand or dust size. I would be more afraid of damaging the threads of the cyl. head than anything. If you do you are looking at exspensive repairs or have to replace the head. So.... Simply, remove the heads it is the correct thing to do. And while your there give the pistons and head a good cleaning and you may notice a bit more performance. Tim

Um, the way you have it wired in if you were sitting at a light with your brakes on your turn signal would not be flashing in the back. tnttim

Here are a few of the new bushing installed on a set of old ARCA A-Arms I found and am going to use. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/212409172_0828082144.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/188120887_0828081909.jpg I had to use a vise and smooth plate to squeeze the rubber in. A little spit on the rubber and it slides right in. Then just press in the metal bushings. ( Hey look I can weld). http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1456486407_0828082155.jpg NEW HOTNESS VS OLD AND BUSTED. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1129245236_0828082202.jpg That and the old one had some weird size bolt/bushing combo I didnt want to deal with. 1/2" for the new and a lot easier to find hardware. Smaller size and I now know where to get replacments. tnttim

I found a great set of bushing o use for the assembly of the A-Arms. Rubicon Express Pn# RE3762 with a machined sleeve. There is also an economy model RE3764 with a pressed steel sleeve. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/2025530577_0828081910.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/342725024_0828081911.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1807075946_0828081911a.jpg You will get a sleeve and an hour glass shaped bushing. The inner sleeves are 10mm ID and can be punched out to 1/2". The steel sleeve has a ridge in the middle to keep the bushing from slipping. Steel Sleeve dia. is 1.75 and when assembled is 2" wide. They are a little pricey but worth it. $19.00 ea. for the nice ones. I got mine at Jeeperz Creeperz in Wyandotte, Mi. (734) 281-8141.

I live just south of Detroit and I have a 442 frame hanging in my rafters you can sit in and get an idea of its size if you wanted to. I also have a variant sittin gon the floor but it is still abit rough.

There is a good 'General' guideline to follow on this. Download yourself a copy of the SCCA's GCR Rule (General Competition Rules) section 9.4.5. Here is the figure they used for 2007 http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/366228200_RollBarDim.bmp I went through this when coming up for a design on my roll bar also. Then you can compare against the Solo rules and find a few 'loop holes'. Such as in Solo my min. thickness of tube was supposed to be .120 but listed for the same weight and car in the 2007 GCR book was .095. You would think that the Solo racing would be the safer of the two but I guess not. Not really an issue since I am using Chromoly anyway. $$$$$. I did see a picture of a car floating around here that had an external hoop system that bolted to plates mounted on the bottom edge of the cars frame. So if you need to have a hoop over the front of the steering wheel,,,, then for a removable one I would go that route. Just make sure the mounting meets the rule book specs. Tim

I would be interested in comming along with someone (and split the gas). Since my car is still in raw metal form I would be interested in occuping someones passenger seat. Maybeeeeee tool along on my motorcycle. ??? It is this or the GASS event in Oscoda. tim

Well I actually had to sit back a few and think about it being Hot Pink. but then I figure I would never hear the end of it from the guys at work. Lord knows it sure would make it noticable on the Highway and help you from getting run over. Can just picture someone telling an officer that "I didn't see him" when asked about the accident. tim

Getting better, I am actually a bit farther than this. I have parts of the rear section coming together and a few tubes that just need to be welded in place once other things come about first. Hope to lay the engine in next week to get an idea where to put the mounts. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/736944330_0616082011a.jpg Looking back I will have to say what a pain in the @ss it is to do a round tube frame. I bet I nearly trippled the time it takes to do this. All the notches and refiguring the angles & lengths. I have been cutting the notches using a very poor excuse for a drill press and notcher I got from HF. POS I do not recommend any drill press from them or the tubing notcher OR the drill top vises. I also went with the McSorley 442 which ended up having its own issues for the suspention which I am still working out. Not to mention I am using unusual hubs and spindels. Anyway it looks as though the summer is flying by and I have yet to hit what I think is the Half way mark so I will most likely be finishing this off over next winter also. On the plus side my daughter (5y.o.) is attempting to help and keeps saying she wants me to get done so we can go for a ride. But only if the car is pink. aaahhh, No, sorry hunny. This is not a Barbie Corvette. tnt

Some Nice Donk 8 photos. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/439486823_2.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1461341978_22ed753e7566f5a41cdb04bcfdb3bcf0.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/600431589_Donkervoort_3070.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/618835668_Donkervoort_Nuerburgring.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/376586543_donk.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/256682947_donkervoort4.jpg Have fun.

I got thinking about a good topic of discussion and this obviously is a big issue right now. Give any suggestions or ideas you have to help other 7 owners squeeze every mile out of that gallon of gas. Or lets see how some of the popular models stand up to each other. (And no Autocross miles do not count.) Here is an example.... I plan on finishing my build off with a Mitsubishi 4g63 turbo motor. The car currently being driven to and from work has a few issues with it. It has either a manifold leak or something, but the idle air bypass is screwed in all the way and the butterfly is closed as far as I could. It is Idling at around 1500 RPM, 600 RPM being normal. BUT since it started dong this the fuel mileage went up to almost 33 miles to a gallon. I figure for a 91' motor thats not bad and no plans on fixing it. That car weighs in at around 3200 Lbs and I generally drive it about 70 MPH to work and back. When I put that engine in to the locost chassis, I hope the milelage will go higher due to the loss of all that extra weight. Then I have to take into account the lack of aerodynamics our cars have and I may just break even.

We should put a prize package together for the 777th member. That would be interesting to get that member #. Tim

They also have an adapter with a pressure gauge on it that they put on the radiator cap they put a few pounds on it and then let it sit. One shade tree way you MAY be able to tell is to pull the spark plugs and look into the cylinders. The color of your sparkplug may be different than the others and all the carbon will be blown off the top of your piston. (it will cleanre thanthe others). If it is a bad enough leak you may actually see water on the top of the piston if you let it sit after heating it up. I did have 2.3L Ford that i messed the ignition timing up and it overheated alot till I figured it out, but it also kinda ran funny. Tim

I have been kicking around the idea of doing the same thing on my build. I think I am going to order a torsion axle that will bolt to the bottom two rails somewhere near the balance point(10% weight on the tow ball) and bolt a torsion axle right to the frame. Then on the back of the 7 put a trailer reciever both for towing a trailer with the seven and for using as a point to hook to the tow vehicle. Simply by changing the attachment. This will get the seven off of the ground and will allow me to stay with in a the weight limit of my tow car. Only 1500 lbs. I may have to take the wheels off the seven to tow it and I will need some temporary tow lights on it in the front but it 'should' work. The real issue I have is in Michigan you have to register your trailer, but since it is a car will it need a plate? But If I am only using it for Autocrosses, (as I plan to for the first year till I am happy the wheels wont fall off on the a highway somewhere), then I dont plan on plating it at all. I have no idea on how you would register it. I thought I could just register the attaching axle as a trailer and see what the inspector says. :7frog: Tim

Meccomcorp.com (Detroit, MI) Ask these guys to do it, they are great and can have almost anything with in a day or two. They bent my roll bar and I have to admit the bends are as perfect as I can measure with a Stanley tape measure. Tim