Bartman

I have 4 wheels and tires for sale with the standard Caterham bolt pattern. The wheels are CXR Comrpomotive, the tyres and wheels are new and unused never even been bolted to a car. My plans have changed a bit and now I will not need them. Front Avon ZZS 185/55/R13 on R13 7" rims Rear Avon ZZS 215/55/R13 on R13 8" rims The tires are from Roger Krauss late last year and the rims from Meteor Motorsports. Total cost new was $1990 No specific price in mind so open to offers. I am east coast and could ship them UPS but its not cheap to do so. I can get a cost if needed. Thanks for looking. Jon

Thanks, managed to check it over the weekend, mine is 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 20. I am planning to drill and tap the bolt to take a 1/4 x28 stud which I can then use as part of a mount for a front wing.

Hi all, I need to replace the lower wishbone front bolts on my S2 imperial. Does anyone know the size of the bolt (maybe 1/2" x 3 1/2 ) but I am not near the car and want to order them up? Thanks! Bart.

FWIW, I had to replace the entire wiring in my 7 and in reality its not that complex, the challenge is to correctly identify and label everything, every connector and every wire prior to disassembly/assembly, I assume the connector to the ECU is already wired, so having the pinout of that is very useful also. I am not familiar with Omex ECU but for me the entire harness is for the ECU as in my case all sensors route though the ECU and drive an AIM dash via CAN as needed, the only wiring not going to the ECU is for the lights. Good luck, it's just methodical but not "difficult".

I am about to cut the same hole through the hood of my car, thanks for the images, it helps to give me confidence that I can do it without screwing it up to badly. Jon

I'd love to drive an EV as my daily driver, the convenience of an overnight charge and 50-70 miles per work day infers it would be ideal, however, as my truck also pulls my car trailer the towing limitations of an electric SUV or Truck means its not realistic in the current market, maybe the long awaited Cybertruck with its claimed 500 mile range will work (250 or less with trailer) but the F150's paltry 125 miles when towing does not fly at all. For me an electric track/race car is very far down my list of things I want to own, I hope it works out for Caterham and I wish them luck but I am not likely to want one anytime soon. My local track does allow EV's during HPDE & time trial events but I suspect that's more out of ignorance of the fire management risk than actual considered policy, certainly as an F&C marshal I have not received any additional training or instruction in managing EV's, I'm not intervention so its possible the tow truck guys have been briefed in more detail though. In F1 & IMSA races the intervention marshals are trained to check the safety lights on the front of the cockpit before touching a car and they are issued with thick rubber gloves to prevent accidental shocks from the hybrid system.

Ha, I had the same problem when learning Excel after Lotus 123

Hi John, Yes the plan is to have SBD remote in to a rolling road session once I have it all in and running on the base map they provided using 93POM gas. The biggest issue I am expecting other than just tuning the map to be a good tractable engine is getting the shift points and settings correct for the paddle shift to operate the gearbox and throttle blipper smoothly up and down. The main reason I chose the MBE9A9 ECU was its ability to manage a fully closed loop clutch-less gearchange in both directions, I had toyed with a geartronix set up but decided to opt for a fully integrated system as opposed to a piggy back system as it seemed less complex at the outset, but actually ended up being more complex in a number of ways - Ahh the law of unintended consequences bites again. I have the easymap software on my PC that SDB uses, it seems pretty good and quite self explanatory but have only played with it till now, it will be interesting to see it live. I'll report back how my session with SBD goes, hopefully its only a few weeks away. Jon.

Hi John, Looks and sounds great. I will be interested to hear how your session goes with SBD, I am hoping to fire mine up next week for the first time also and because I am a long way from the original spec I am a little nervous that the base map provided by SBD will need a lot of work. Good luck! Jon

Hi Vinman. I think I have a set of arms and wiper blades from a 2004 7 and the handbrake assembly (for a DeDion though). Let me know if you want them (FOC), I will not be putting them back on the car as its a track car and has no windshield Best Jon

Hey Craig, I have a set of lower wishbones surplus due to the wide track conversion. I'll take a look tonight to be sure I have not already given them away. If I have them and you want them they are yours FOC. Cheers, Jon (AKA Bartman)

I am looking to but a bunch of good quality toggle switches, I don't want crap from Asia if I can avoid it, anyone have a good source? Thanks Bart.

Finally the modification to the water-pump outlet is done, its not pretty as it was cut up and re-done twice but there is now at least 1/4 clearance between the outlet and the steering column. Thanks to all that sent photos etc.

A Stainless work of art that is.

Wow, that will be a handful of fun. Good luck with the install and setup.

I went with the MBE 9A9 as I wanted to use a paddle shift on the Sadev sequential I added to replace the T9 and not have to mess with adding a GCU to allow clutch-less downshifts. In retrospect it was not a great move as this choice was a cause for the longest delay (6 months), I had to design and make a complete custom loom to accommodate the MBE and the associated wiring for the compressor and blipper . Hopefully with the Omex one you got the loom as part of the deal. B.

Hi, Ill get some pictures this week and post them. What ECU did you go for? B

Hi, I swapped my clams for cycle wings, easy swap just need the mounting brackets and a way to fill the holes left in the side of the car from the bolts that secure the clams, I used dome head bolts and its ok looking. B

Thanks to everyone on this, I went ahead and bought a new housing and will have a local machine shop make the modifications in line with dallasdude's example. I hope this is the last in a long, long, long line of holdups, alterations, fabrications and general hiccups that has kept my car making very little to no progress in the last 12 months We will see. For anyone considering a new Zetec engine from Raceline here is a list of things that just got in the way, I don't blame them (Raceline) at all they have been great but transatlantic shipment of parts for a car that was never really standardized and as far as I know they rarely put a Zetec in a Caterham in the UK is always going to be a mess of mistakes and incorrect assumptions and as each problem arises it of course just adds long periods of down time in the rebuild as we wait for the correct part to arrive:- 1. Silicone hose kit supplied does not fit (wrong in almost every way), made my own set, sourced the parts from Siliconehoses.com 2. Angled ITB Inlet manifold supplied does not clear chassis rail, got a straight replacement which clears the rail, I had to send the incorrect one back to have the replacement straight one matched to the ported head and the new one when it arrived was poorly finished with machining marks in all the bores, spent hours polishing them out. 3. Engine mount exhaust side incorrectly fabricated and did not fit, cut it up and rewelded in correct orientation, Arch who made the mount could not explain what went wrong. 4. Water pump interferes with steering, in process. 5. Exhaust supplied headers only good for RHD cars as steering rod passes through the headers, this is not an issue for the RHD versions, reused originals with some modifications. 6. Inlet manifold trumpets 1 damaged, replacement incorrect size, Decided to beat out the dents in the damaged one and use it 7. Oil filler cap too tall to fit under hood without interference, made a low profile version. So nothing that's a major issue just a bunch of minor niggles, but each one adding weeks or months in some cases to resolve. Oh well, its a marathon not a sprint. B.

I talked to Simon Rogers about this kit when we met up at the Rolex 24hr. There is a jig he has that is used to correctly make the cuts to the existing frame in order to weld on the basket. I don't think he has any plans to make it available as a DIY. If interested its worth a call to him at Meteor Motorsports though.

Thanks to all, @Carlb I think Eric at Quicksilver has pointed us in the right direction for parts. We opted to have the inlet and outlet on for the radiator on the induction side to help us layout where the water/oil cooler for the gearbox would fit. Its a bit crowded in there with the engine oil cooler, radiator and gearbox cooler!

That looks pretty similar to what we had planned. It at least confirms that our thinking is reasonable.

Hi there @vovchandr and @Carlb, as you are both talking Zetec I wanted to see if you have any photos of your installation for the reasons detailed below. I know Carl knows, but, I am in the process of installing a Raceline Zetec in my LHD S3 and we are now plumbing it in for the radiator and oil cooler (a water to oil cooler mounted on top of the steering rack behind the main radiator). To run the hose from the water pump to the radiator we can see there is almost no clearance between the water pump outlet and the steering rod that passes through the exhaust headers to the rack, the rod is very very close to the water pump outlet and smack bang in the way. The original motor (also a Zetec) had the water pump outlet connection cut back only allowing about 3/4" of a 90 degree elbow hose to be clamped on, with no bead on the outlet to retain the hose and it still rubbed on the steering rod, this does not appear to be a reliable solution to me, not even enough room to double clamp. We are contemplating cutting the water pump outlet right back to the main casing and then TIG welding a fabricated elbow onto the water pump allowing us to direct the outlet away from the steering rod and provide a better and more reliable/durable solution. I wondered how your installation dealt with this problem if at all? Any photo's or info gratefully received. Thanks in advance. Bart.

Gus at Eurosport motors is also a good guy. Works out of his shop west of Frederick MD. Not sure he has a web site but he is a race car prep pro and rebuilder of mostly Porsches & track Formula cars. He has built a number of 7's including mine. If you want his number PM me and I'll send it (with his permission of course). Best, Bart.

The Cam cover was from Retro Ford in the UK. https://www.retroford.co.uk/product-category/parts-by-category/zetec-bda-parts/