IamScotticus

Great topic and Ive been wondering what is the perfect low profile scissor jack? A Mini? It would be more helpful to list the details of your build as all the parts have their specific fitting tools and commonly needed tools. For example, if you are cable clutch, they break, have a spare and essential tools. The other day I realized why my Cat was so hard to push. I needed a 1/4" wrench to adjust my rear drum shoes. I had to go to a lot of trouble to find one in a shop where I was but I had plenty at home. For my build, a Xflow live axle. it would be spark plugs & socket 3/8 bent handle swivel head ratchet and 6" extension tools for tightening suspension, adjustment of carburetors, tightening of hose clamps, servicing alternator tension & belt, clutch cable and tire change. Another thing is to have a plan B for a windscreen breaking. An assortment of high strength zip-ties to tie up things that break loose. This is not reliable boring transportation.

Tracsport / SP Components has a decent variety of Ali BHs to suit many needs. One could build a all alloy T-9. Steve has been in the business a long time. He was the supplier of T2 boxes and Ital axles to Cat in the 90s.

Really? I know this isn't anything new for 7 damage, but the circumstances were totally shameful. I am thinking I should remove the inner panel, aneal, and compress the extrusions with a bolt, nut and two washers. Then fit new size rivnuts. Another mod Im considering is fabing an access panel for the grot trap. This, cleaning up 8 years of rust, lower end seals and a shine is all she really needs. I intend to throw on a T-9 as well. I was very excited to hear about the cable-less speedo sending options available. Should I stick with VDO?

I wish I had a dollar for every cell phone snapping pics! One of the things one has to be prepared for is the amount of attention you get. I almost got to the point of irritability. When I get going again, I will make a bumper sticker,"WARNING Ask you doctor if you're healthy enough for Lotus 7" and print out leaflets with a picture and description, and John Donahue's phone number. 😁

Hello. I think I should contribute here, wanted or not, my limping recovery. Firstly I am taking any advice as how to go about repairing the extruded holes that once held rivnuts. Thanks.

This, just in from SETI, proof we are not alone!

Any thoughts of replacing sticky loom tape with something less sticky? High temp split conduit tubing? Unless you prefer sticky?

Is there an Arch chassis number stamped on either of the upper shock mounts?

I have a set of those and 305 EY rears I bought in a garage raid. Well used, of course. And G775s on my 96 Cat and Spax on the rear. All well used rusty and grimey. The rears did come with blue Hyperos.

Vin, assuming you have the Triumph trunnions, do you know how deep to screw the uprights in to them? or how many turns back out from bottom? Scott

I did it to myself. I used a UHaul when I picked it up from seller without an engine exhaust & transmission, or me in it therefore it rode much higher and cleared. So next time I needed to trailer it, it was all built up and I assumed I could do it again. Wrong.

My first experience in a seven was in the late 80s i think working at an inspection station in Dallas. Peter Fawcett's S4 came in driven by his son. I failed it for a turn signal but I also wanted to see it again. No ulterior motive.. I got a conversation going and Mr. Fawcett kindly invited me over to see his Lotus collection. That sealed the deal.

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On T9s know there is a 2.8 V6 version that will require a 1" back spacer and the input tip shortened about 10mm. Fewer gear kits available for V6 version. T-9 mount needs to be elevated on a 9/16" spacer. Also know the tailhousing may not accept a speefo cable, some were electronic sender only. There is a shifter extension sold By Mattlewisracing and others that will put the shifter where it belongs, but it may not work on the V6. Bone up on this b4 buying.

blue Loctite everything

I drove mine up, snagged the muffler which ripped off the fender. And gouged both sides.

Im really considering doing a DIY with grey Eastwood high temp. The whole thing. SS against bare aluminum is too shiny.

While you're waiting for the snow to melt, required 7 viewing. Thats a horrible screen shot

This is what a U-Haul car trailer will do to your 7. Both sides, and thats not the half of what I did to my cat.

Im sorry to troll here, just trying to help based on experience. Expect this car to to be 13 ft long, 6 ft wide, and the bell housing and maybe the oil pan to be 2" off the ground. Don't expect it to roll easily, don't expect to be able to air up the tires. There is only one way for you, a dropping tilt trailer, preferably with an electric winch. Soft straps through the lower A arms, not the frame cross member you will bend your frame. Investing now in the right equipment for a proper recovery will prevent expensive damage. This is a minimum. Dont try a UHaul car trailer. DONT. https://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equipment/detail/1411/0241035/16ftdeck-tandem-axle-trailer-10k/

Please don't. 12,000 Lbs car doesn't need that to be fun. And definitely not on a chassis of doubtful integrity. If you do have an Xflow, KEEP IT.

This is a great idea! Thanks. I think I would want to replace my Cat sw with a momentary style to use with this. This is the Blink-Stop module

Thanks foe the responses and suggestions! I have seen on vids that one of the vacuum operated have an adjustment screw for delay duration. Holden is interesting... they still offer the Lucas L516 torpedo side lamp that was fitted to early sevens. Another retro bit Im considering. I like the idea of mounting it through my clam's wing stay for added rise support. Ken sent me a shaft size. It would take up the entire inside width of the square wing stay tube. Still undecided and may not do it unless Im required to put a marker up there by my official scrutinizer. I honestly don't know how those small low profile bolts provide enough retention? I need replacements of those, btw.

This leads to the concept of wrapping the primaries, or header wrapping. I have always read this practice will or may "shorten header life". Can someone educate me on what is happening when they fail, or if this actually happens at all?

I know this as well. I carpeted my tunnel which helps, but still still very hot. I have been thinking of covering the foot wells with sheets of aluminum stood off about a quarter inch for airflow. This should block the radiant heat. Opinions?